Few places seem more appropriate to celebrate Christmas than Rome, the home of not only Catholicism, but of the ancient empire whose pagan festival, Saturnalia, was converted into the holiday celebrating Christ's birth.
Yet after booking a trip to Rome over the Christmas holidays, travelers often get a sudden fear that the city will be completely shut down, making it impossible for them to eat, sightsee, or do anything, really, but go to church.
While it's true that many Romans will leave the city for their family homes over the holidays, there are still plenty of people left in this city of 3 million. Here, what will be open—and what won't—in Rome over Christmas.
Will sites and museums be open? While some museums and sites will remain open even on Christmas Day and New Year's, most of the biggies will be shut. The forum, Colosseum and Palatine will be closed Dec. 25 and Jan. 1, for example, but open every other day as usual, including Dec. 24.
The Vatican's a tougher one: The Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel will be closed on Dec. 8, Dec. 25, Dec. 26, and Jan. 1. They'll also be closed every Sunday in December and January, as usual, except for the last Sunday of each month, when they are open and free.
Check with other sites individually. Pierreci's sexy new site lists, in English, all of Rome's major museums and archaeological sights, along with their hours and closures. Outdoor sites like Piazza Navona and the Trevi Fountain, along with churches (see below), will be open.
(More, below, on what you have to know about visiting Rome over Christmas!).
Will the bus and metro be running? Yes. Often, the city even has an expanded service on Christmas Eve until the early afternoon. Service tends to end at about 9pm that night, though, and cabs are in very short supply, so if you need to be somewhere, give yourself lots of time to get there. On Christmas Eve, walking will probably be your best bet, so dress warmly!
But many places will also be open on even those holidays themselves, including both classic Italian favorites and the kosher restaurants in the Ghetto. Just remember to book in advance.
For 2013 (stay tuned to see if they'll put out a 2014 update!), The Rome Digest has a nice little list of good Rome restaurants that will be open over the holidays, including Metamorfosi, Romeo and Roscioli.
I want to go shopping. Can I? Throughout December and January, yes. However, most shops will close early on Christmas Eve and will not be open on Christmas Day. Other days some might be closed or have shorter hours include Dec. 8, Dec. 26, and Jan. 1. If you want the saldi, you'll have to wait—usually, these after-Christmas sales kick off throughout Lazio on the third Saturday of January.
And what about churches? Ah, churches! They will, of course, be open on Christmas; many will offer mass at the same time they'd usually have their Sunday service. If you're interested in attending mass, check with the church in advance. Otherwise, you're fine to visit most churches as usual, being, of course, particularly respectful and refraining from taking flash photographs if a service is going on.
Want more great tips and tricks for Rome? Check out The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon, below, or through my site here!