It’s a place where I can offer other gifts and goodies made out of my images, too. Here are some of my favorites so far:

A laptop case that will take you right out of the office and to the country roads of Tuscany:

The classiest bag for toiletries:

The prettiest clock featuring Rome’s rose garden in bloom:

A phone cover…. or a door into a beautiful home in Tuscany?

Even fun graphic tops:

So, come check it out! Redbubble has offices around the world, so whether you’re in the US or Australia, Europe or wherever else, they almost definitely have low-cost shipping. And I’ll be adding more products over the next few months, so if there isn’t a destination or image that you’re interested in at the moment, make sure to check back in the future.

Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook, which includes tips and tricks for travel to Rome in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here. I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

The post Italy Photography Prints for Sale (Along with Other Goodies) appeared first on Revealed Rome.

It took me a long time to get over my fear… almost a decade, in fact. But I finally took a deep breath, rented a car and took my first trip, solo, last year. That was followed up by not one, but two more several-day road trips throughout Italy — from cities to countryside.

And you know what? It was fine. (With one caveat. More on that later…).

But knowing some key tips before I started driving in Italy definitely helped.

Whether you’re wondering what it’s like driving in Italy as an American (or Australian, or…), and whether it’s your first time driving in Italy or your tenth, here are answers to some of the most common questions I hear.

First things first: Should you drive in Italy?

If you’re planning on spending all of your time in cities, no. You don’t want a car in downtown Rome, Florence, Milan, etc (and you probably aren’t even allowed to drive one there — read on for more about why). And train connections between cities, and many towns, in Italy are very good — so it’s just not necessary and more of a hassle than it’s worth.

It’s if you want to explore beyond the city limits that it gets more complicated. It’s true that you can still take trains and buses to even rural towns in many parts of Italy. And for some people, that may be the best way to go. But you’re still limited.

I love staying at agriturismi (farm-stays) in the countryside, for example, and they’re usually all but impossible to get to without a car. Same for vineyards, hot springs and, really, many of the other things that make Italy’s countryside so special.

(While some towns will have taxi services from the train station, I wouldn’t rely on this; you’d have to book a taxi in advance. And then you’d be stuck at the agriturismo/vineyard/whatever until, of course, you hired a taxi again).

So if you want to see more — for example — of Tuscany than, say, Siena, Florence, Pisa and Lucca, I’d recommend hiring a car and driving in Italy. And, again: As long as you’re a decent driver, this is completely doable.

• Also: etiquette mistakes not to make eating in Italy, the best beaches near Rome and why you should visit Naples (just don’t drive there).

Forget what you’ve heard about crazy Italian drivers. Yes, the downtown areas seem chaotic and the drivers seem nuts, but you shouldn’t be driving there anyway. (Also, they’re probably not nuts. There’s a logic to the madness you’re just not seeing. I promise).

On highways, respect the rules of the road (read on for what those are) and you’ll be okay.

But that doesn’t mean you should jump right in without knowing some key tips ahead of time…

Driving in Italy: Tips for before you go

From the documents you need to drive in Italy legally, to how far in advance to rent a car, to what kind of car you should consider, here are some things to think about before you arrive at the rental agency’s counter.

Can I drive in Italy with a US license? What about an EU, Australian or Canadian one?

If you have an EU license, you’re fine to drive in Italy. (TBD on what that means for Britain as we sort out this Brexit debacle situation…).

But technically, you can’t just drive in Italy with a US, Australian or Canadian license. You also need an international driver’s permit (IDP).

Wait, what is an international driver’s permit? (And do I really need one?)

What an IDP is is rather simple — it’s a translation of your driver’s license into 10 different languages. Getting it is pretty straightforward, too. In the US, find an AAA or AATA office, pay $20 and voilá. Here are instructions for getting an IDP from AAA. It’s a similar process in Australia and in Canada. Alternatively, if you travel with your home license plus an official Italian translation of it, that’s fine too.

In reality? You’re unlikely to be asked to produce an IDP. It’s fairly rare (though not completely unheard of) for rental agencies to ask US drivers for anything other than their US license. It’s also rare (but not unheard of) for police to spot-check drivers.

But if you do get checked — or, a worse case still, get in an accident and are checked — the fines can be hefty. The Italian Motor Vehicle code states that the fine can be €400 to €1,600. Ouch.

As with any application of the law in Italy, it’s also true that it’s very possible that a police officer could know this law, stop you, see you don’t have an IDP and still not be bothered… but do you really want to risk it? $20 (or the cost of an official translator) and peace of mind, or that niggling concern that you might have to pay up to €1,600? I know what I’d choose.

Where to rent a car in Italy…

Major hubs, like international airports, will offer most of the major car rental companies, like Hertz, Europcar and Budget. I like to use price-comparison sites like Rentalcars.com or Kayak, but beware — the cheapest option may not always be the best option (or turn out to be the cheapest), especially if something goes wrong. (But read on about rental car insurance to make sure you’re 100% covered in that kind of worst-case scenario).

…how early to rent a car (especially if you need an automatic)…

If you book at least a few days out, online, you’re likely to find a better price than an on-the-spot rental.

But booking in advance is a must if you need an automatic. These are far less common in Italy (and around Europe) than in the United States, for example. So if you need an automatic car, book your rental car online far in advance — at least a month out in high season if you want to be safe. You’ll also have to pay a premium for the option, as automatics are often two to even four times as expensive as manual cars.

You should also book at least a couple of weeks in advance if you’d like to pick up the car in one location and drop it off in another, which can affect availability as well.

…and why you don’t always want an “upgrade” when driving in Italy.

Choose your car type wisely when driving in Italy. Unless you are a supremely confident driver, including in narrow roads, you probably do not want a massive SUV or similarly large car. Nor do you want the upgrade that they offer you at the rental car agency. (Real talk: They’re probably only upgrading you because they’ve run out of smaller cars. I’d suggest that you insist on what you originally wanted).

Here’s why: Especially if you’re coming from North American or Australia, roads in Italy will often be much narrower than what you’re used to. Sure, highways are highways (although that five-lane business we have in the US is pretty much nonexistent in Italy).

Get off the major roads, though, and things change quickly.

This is particularly true of streets in cities, towns, villages and rural areas. Oh, that sounds like all of Italy? Yes. Exactly.

And it isn’t just the roads, either: Parking garages and parking lots also can be a real squeeze.

Quick story. On my birthday last year, I rented a car in Perugia for a spin through the countryside. The people at the rental agency — noticing from my license that my birthday was that day — were so delighted that they upgraded me as a “gift”. The upgrade was to a slick, fancy and pretty darn wide Audi. On the highway outside the city, it was copacetic. In the traffic-clogged streets of Perugia, I started to sweat.

But it was when I tried to exit the parking garage that I lost the battle: With only a couple of inches of room on either side of the car, I maneuvered just a tad too close to the support column… and heard a scraaaaape.

Moral of the story? I will never let someone “upgrade” me again. That compact economy car is just fine, thanks.

But… driving in the countryside of Italy means lots of dirt roads, too.

Here’s the double whammy: In the countryside, roads are still narrow. But they’re also often gravel or dirt. That includes in popular areas of Tuscany, Umbria and, really, anywhere else in the country.

And don’t count on Google Maps or your GPS to guide you around them. These roads are often the most direct route from Point A to Point B, and at least at present, Google doesn’t know the difference.

What about rental car insurance in Italy?

Other than why a pair of socks always magically turns into one sock once it’s inside of a washing machine, I find insurance pretty much the most baffling thing about being an adult. Rental car insurance is no exception.

Here’s what I’ve figured out. Normally, when you rent a car, the policy comes with a basic insurance package. But that package is usually really basic — as in, you’re on the hook for a few thousand euros of deductible (or, in British lingo, “excess”) before the insurance kicks in. Which is how they scare you into buying an extra policy that can bring that excess to zero. That purchase alone can double the cost of your hire car.

A cheaper, better way? Buy an annual policy from an independent provider that takes your excess down to 0. I have one from Insurance4carhire — it’s £45 a year for multiple car trips in Europe. That one is for residents of the UK and some other European countries only, but you can find similar policies wherever you live.

You do still need to make sure that a Collision Damage Waiver is included in your car rental, but it’s all but impossible to find a rental that doesn’t include a CDW for even its cheapest rate.

Finally: Do you need a GPS?

These days, you can rely on Google Maps to get around Italy, as long as you’re okay to pay for the data. (And as long as you bring a phone charger for the car. Don’t assume a rental car will have a USB port; bring a cigarette lighter adapter too).

But you definitely run the risk of not having signal, particularly in the countryside.

So a GPS is definitely the safer option. But it’s worth noting that it comes with many of the same drawbacks as Google (or any other map app) when it comes to other things — in particular, not knowing where ZTLs are (more later) and not knowing the difference between a dirt road and a paved road.

Is there a great solution for this? No, other than accepting that you will almost certainly make a wrong turn at some point… and that’s okay. Which is why, particularly when advising clients planning to drive around Italy, I always suggest that they keep their schedules not too jam-packed and as flexible as possible. Besides, sometimes that wrong turn brings you somewhere even more magical.

Driving in Italy: Tips for when you’re there (and some rules of the road)

So you’ve got your (safe, but not monstrously large) car, your IDP (or translation) and your rental car insurance. Great. Now it’s time to actually drive in Italy!

Here are main tips to keep in mind when you’re on the road. This list is, of course, not exhaustive — but it’s some of the biggest differences you might notice between Italy and your home country.

In Italy, you drive on the right…

Enough said.

…but you cannot turn right on red.

Just because some things are similar when driving in the US and Italy doesn’t mean everything is, of course. And this is a big one. You cannot turn right at a red light in Italy. It’s illegal. Don’t be tempted. Not least because…

Traffic cameras are everywhere… and tourists are especially vulnerable.

As well as general safety, here’s another big reason to make sure you’re following the rules of the road in Italy: Traffic cameras are everywhere. As in much of Europe, they’ll just snap a photograph of your license plate if you’re speeding, or making an illegal U-turn, or…

If you’re a resident, you can at least contest. But that’s much more difficult to do if you’re a tourist. Instead, they’ll usually send that fine to the rental agency, which will then take it off your credit card. Good luck contesting that. (If you really need it, here’s an example of just how nightmarish this can get).

So while locals may often be speeding, be cautious before you follow suit. First, they probably know where the cameras are. And second, it’s a bit easier for them to fight any fines.

When driving in Italy, “ZTL” is perhaps the most important three-letter word you’ll encounter.

ZTL stands for zona traffico limitato: Limited traffic zone. It’s the area, typically of a town or city, that is what it says: Not for everyone to drive through.

These cannot be ignored. Usually now accompanied by, you guessed it, a traffic camera, these will catch you if you drive through them. The sign may look like the below, or it may be in English (as well as Italian) with flashing lights (a newer and more tourist-friendly version that is, thankfully, being installed more around Italy). Either way, do not drive through it.

The really tricky (and, I think, somewhat unfair) thing is that it can be really difficult to know if your route will take you through a ZTL. Yes, when you’re at its edge, you’ll see a big sign like the one above. But it’s not always possible to turn around — sometimes, you have no choice but to go through.

And no, your GPS and Google Maps do not tell you where the ZTLs are. So if they take you on the most direct route, it may be right through a ZTL.

So how can you avoid going through a ZTL while driving in Italy? The most basic way: Avoid driving downtown in cities and towns. Drive around them. And if you have to stop, park at public lots outside of city walls and walk in.

Have to park within a city or town? First, you always can look the ZTL up online in advance. (To get you started, here’s a helpful website showing the ZTLs for Rome, Florence, Milan and Pisa). Second, in cities where the “downtown” or “centro storico” (which is often also ground zero for a ZTL) isn’t clearly defined to the untrained eye, when you park at a public lot or garage, keep a sharp eye out for maps showing you the ZTL. I once parked at a public garage in Bologna where one exit took you out of the downtown and away from the ZTL, while another exit took you onto a street that led directly into the ZTL. So, make sure you have a look.

And finally, if you’re staying at a hotel in that city or town, email them in advance to ask 1) where the ZTL is and 2) if they can add you to the list of cars legally allowed to drive through it (if the hotel is in the ZTL zone, for example, they may be able to do this).

Avoid driving downtown in big cities.

First, because of the ZTL. The likelihood is you’re probably not supposed to be driving there, anyway.

But second? Because downtown areas of cities like Naples or Rome can feel pretty nutso to cross a street in as a pedestrian — never mind being behind the wheel of a car.

If you’re renting a car in a major city in order to start a road trip, my suggestion is usually to rent it at the airport (bypassing the city entirely) or rent it as close to a highway entrance as possible. In Rome, for example, Termini train station tends to be a fairly good bet — it’s still chaotic there, but you’re at least near the autostrada entrance.

Know the speed limits (and what unit they’re in).

Speed limits in Italy are in kilometers per hour, not miles. That probably seems obvious, but if you’re from the US, it can be easy to forget. Speed limit signs usually are a white and red circle with the number in the center.

On major highways (autostrade), the standard speed limit is 130km/hr, so adhere to this if you don’t see a sign. On non-major highways, it’s 110km/hr. And on local roads, it’s 90km/hr.

Do not drive in the left lane unless you’re passing.

You know how some people love to just sit in the left lane, even when they aren’t passing? Don’t be that person anywhere. But especially don’t be that person in Italy, where local drivers hate it.

If you forget, though, don’t worry! Within minutes, someone will normally remind you to move over — usually by flashing lights at you, riding your bumper… and/or beeping and/or making angry hand gestures. You have been warned.

Make sure you choose the correct lane for tolls.

Many highways in Italy can feel a bit stop-and-start with toll booths. Make sure you choose the correct lane. At your first toll booth, this should be the lane that says biglietto (which means ticket). You do not want to take the lane that has only TELEPASS listed (this will be in yellow).

When exiting the toll area, lanes that say carte are for cards (debit or credit), while the one with just an image of cash and coins is (you guessed it) cash and coins.

You will probably encounter roundabouts.

Like much of Europe, Italy has wholeheartedly embrace the roundabout. If you aren’t sure how to handle one, Google it.

Someone flashing your lights at you doesn’t mean what you think it means.

If they’re behind you because you’re in the passing lane and not passing anyone (or maybe you are, but too slowly for their liking), they’re flashing you because they want you to move. But at, say, a crossroads? It could mean you go first. It could mean don’t go because I am. There’s really no way to be sure.

As in any country, use eye contact and hand gestures instead of relying on lights alone, and proceed carefully. It’s worth noting that traffic on your right has the right-of-way at a crossroads in Italy, but not everyone always adheres to this, so do be careful regardless.

Last word: So, should you drive in Italy?

I may have scared you with some of these photos. Sorry. I just want to make sure you don’t drive through downtown Naples, that’s all.

Other than that? It’s really not bad. Keep these basic tips in mind, and you’ll be fine. And if you’re not… there’s always that annual excess policy you got, right?!

I kid. Drive safe. Drive defensively. And enjoy. From being afraid to drive in Italy, road trips in Italy are now one of my favorite things. I hope they will be for you, too.

Have you driven in Italy before? How did you find it? Let me know in the comments — and if you have any other driving in Italy tips to share!

Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook, which includes many more tips and tricks like these in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here. I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

The post Driving in Italy: Tips for Your First Time (or Tenth) appeared first on Revealed Rome.

So I was thrilled to recently get the opportunity to share how to be a good tourist in Italy for not one, but two websites. Here are my tips on how to travel responsibly in Rome — from the moment you book flights to when you’re on the ground and even after you get home. Some of my tips were also included in a roundup of suggestions about responsible tourism from top travel bloggers at Rome2Rio.

The post How to Be a Responsible Tourist in Rome appeared first on Revealed Rome.

Many of us, after all, are used to restaurants back home. Whether in the US, UK or Canada, unless you’re talking about a super-trendy or Michelin-starred restaurant, it’s often fairly easy to walk into a restaurant for dinner and get seated without much of a wait. It’s easy to assume that Rome is the same. Why shouldn’t you be able to walk into a humble trattoria on a Thursday evening and find a table?

Then there’s that all-pervasive myth about Italy: The idea that no matter where you eat, you’ll eat well. So even if you can’t get in to one place, the next place should be just as good. After all, the center of Rome is just teeming with good restaurants, right? And, of course, we all love that idea of “discovering” that perfect hole-in-the-wall spot — no research or reservations needed.

The problem? In Rome, none of this holds water. (Or wine, as the case may be…).

• Also: etiquette mistakes not to make at an Italian meal, 5 rules for finding Rome’s best restaurants and why you can’t find your favorite Italian dish in Italy.

When you’re deciding whether to book restaurants in Rome, there are a few things to keep in mind.

One is when people tend to eat out in Rome. Most locals don’t eat dinner until at least 8pm — usually 9pm. That means a couple of things. First, restaurants that cater to locals won’t open until 7:30pm or 8pm. (This is changing as more restaurants catch on to the fact that, by opening earlier, they can get more tourists to dine. Still, many local spots are continuing to keep more traditional hours).

Second, you may not be able to (or want to) make a booking until after 8pm. But restaurants still start shutting their kitchens around 11pm. So unlike in, say, Barcelona, you’ll have a hard time getting a dinner booking after 10pm or 10:30pm.

As a result, in terms of when diners are being sat and served, the time frame is just a few short hours.

Another factor is how long people tend to eat dinner for. There’s a stereotype that dinner in Italy is always a five-course production — and every diner is expected to order (and finish!) an antipasto, primo, secondo, dolce, coffee and digestivo... on their own. This isn’t exactly true… as you can probably tell from locals’ often-svelte figures. But it is true that, particularly when eating out, a meal tends to be at least two courses — more often, yes, three or four. (Among friends, many of these courses tend to be shared.)

Italians also tend to linger more over their meals, often talking late into the night over that last glass of wine or amaro. Service, too, is less rushed. When I’m eating out in Rome with friends, I fully expect to be at the restaurant for at least 2.5 hours — more often 3 or 4.

All of this means that a local restaurant can expect to have about two seatings per table a night. That’s a big difference compared to the churn of many restaurants elsewhere.

Add onto this the fact that, as an old, expensive (for Italy) city, Rome tends to have smaller restaurants (and hotel rooms, and shops). That means fewer tables. And at two seatings per table per night? You can do the math.

I haven’t even mentioned yet the fact that sadly, no — you can’t eat anywhere in Rome (or Florence, or Venice…) and eat well. Perhaps that once was true. But tourism has risen sharply in recent years. One effect is that many restaurants now serve what they think visitors are looking for (like fixed-price menus and Italian-American food). Another is that some have given up on quality altogether — whether because they think tourists don’t know what to look for, or because, since they expect to never see them again, they’re not really fussed about turning a diner into a regular.

As a result, there are whole streets in Rome where I can’t even think of a single place I’d be caught dead dining at.

That’s not because I expect fine cuisine. It’s because I don’t want to be overcharged for a gross, often microwaved meal.

So now we’re talking only a few tables available… at only a few good restaurants, relatively speaking, in the center of Rome. And with a lot of people — both locals who want to eat out, and a whole host of increasingly food-savvy travelers — who want to eat well.

Starting to see why it’s a good idea to book restaurants in Rome in advance?

Of course, I understand not wanting to be locked into eating at a certain place and time. Part of the joy of travel is being flexible. So I’ll tell you the same thing I say to clients (and it almost always comes up).

When to book restaurants in Rome

If you’re a foodie (as in, you want to make the most of every meal you have), book every dinner and some of your lunches. (You can be a little bit more laissez-faire with lunch reservations than dinner. But even then, if there’s a place you have your heart set on, it’s always better to reserve).

If you’re really not that fussed about food (as in, you not only can’t tell your carbonara from your amatriciana, you’re not that bothered about knowing the difference or even about tasting either one), then go ahead and play every meal by ear.

But at the very least, use the tips from my post about how to spot Rome’s best restaurants.

• Want to learn more about food in Rome, while in Rome? I’m a big fan of Eating Italy’s Taste of Testaccio food tour, which includes a visit to a local market and a ton of tastings, and of Walks of Italy’s pasta-making class with a local chef.

And if you’re somewhere in the middle — as in, food is one of the reasons you’re excited to visit Italy, but you’re okay chancing a mediocre meal or two in return for flexibility?

Then don’t worry about lunch. But do book at least half of your dinners in advance — you can always cancel (or have your hotel call to cancel) if you change your mind. (If you’re a group, particularly of five people or more, I’d suggest booking every dinner).

For your other dinners, at least have a list of spots to check out arranged by neighborhood. That way, if you wind up in, say, Trastevere one night, you have a few options to head to. Particularly consider pizzerias: As more casual joints with shorter cooking times, they normally have faster turnover and shorter wait times.

In terms of when to book restaurants in Rome, meanwhile, aim for at least two or three weeks out. But more than a month is rarely necessary (unless you’re a large group or it’s a super-trendy, Michelin-star type place). You might be able to get your hotel to make bookings for you when you arrive, but be aware that same-week reservations aren’t always available, particularly if you’re traveling in a group.

(Need help making restaurant reservations in advance? I’ll book them for you in the unlimited-plus version of my one-on-one consulting sessions.)

And most importantly, if you haven’t made reservations, be flexible. Know that when you head to one of those spots, there’s a chance you may have to wait for a table (or may not get in at all).

The upside? That wait is the perfect chance for a passeggiata or pre-dinner glass of wine. And that — as much as a fabulous meal — is part of what makes visiting Italy so special!

If you liked this post, you’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here!

The post Do You Need to Book Restaurants in Rome? (Really?) appeared first on Revealed Rome.

Not quite.

Last Christmas, I went to Milan to investigate where panettone comes for BBC Travel. I learned about the history of panettone, how it’s made and the traditions of how (and when) it’s eaten in Milan (and around Italy).

And, needless to say, I learned what all the fuss is about.

Spoiler alert: When it’s made properly — and good Lord, is it laborious to make properly — it is a completely. Different. Food.

Have you ever heard that the best recipe for panettone is the one that involves soaking it in egg and serving it as French toast? Yeah, no. With the slices I tried, that would be a travesty.

So what is panettone, really? And where does it come from?

When was panettone first made?

Panettone (pronounced pan-eh-tone-ay; the plural, by the way, is panettoni) dates back to the early Renaissance. Back then, wheat was precious — so precious that until the 14th century, nearly every bakery in Milan made wheat bread only at Christmas, when they gave it to their clients.

Still, that panettone looked little like today’s. The first record we have of a similar kind of cake shows up in an 1839 Italian-Milanese dictionary, where the entry for panettone describes the recipe as including butter, eggs, sugar and raisins. But we can’t be sure how similar it would have been otherwise — one difference is that it likely would have used far less butter than today’s version. Even 20 years ago, the cake was nowhere near as rich as it is now.

So where does (today’s) panettone come from?

From my story for BBC Travel:

“Until the end of the 19th Century, it still was a food that, for the most part, you’d only encounter in Milan. Then came Angelo Motta.

When Motta opened his Milan bakery in 1919, panettone was made much like a big loaf of bread. But then a client came to place a special order. He was a Russian émigré in Milan who had fled the Bolshevik revolution, and he wanted 200 kulich – Russian Easter cakes – for a party. When Motta looked at the recipe, he noticed something interesting: it was very similar to panettone. One difference? It was made inside a tall, cylindrical tin. Motta adopted the mold for panettone, using a ring of paper instead to give the dough the vertical, puffed-top shape that we see today.”

Shortly after, the process was streamlined and industrialized — and panettoni began to be shipped ’round the world.

Read more about panettone — including why a piece always must be saved until 3 February — over at BBC Travel.

And if you’re lucky enough to be in Milan, the birthplace of this oh-so-delicious treat, around the holidays…

Where to buy panettone in Milan

Every local has a favorite spot where they buy (or, more likely, put in their pre-orders) for panettoni. After some intensive taste-testing, here were some of my favorite places for panettone in Milan:

Pasticceria Angelo Polenghi. This hole-in-the-wall bakery is everything you’d want from a local pasticceria: Everything is made on-site in the tiny kitchen in the back, it’s family-run, and the head baker, 85-year-old Angelo Polenghi, has worked here every day practically since his mother opened it in 1945. Oh, and the sweets — including the much sought-after panettone — are to die for. Via Lamarmora 31, a 20-minute walk or 10-minute bus ride from the Duomo.

Pasticceria MacMahon. It’s a bit out of the center (though easily accessible on the tram), but the journey is worth it for the sweets here. The head baker Andrea Rampinelli, whose family has run it since 1971, is young and passionate about the process and ingredients (think Madagascan vanilla and organic fruit he candies himself), and you can taste it in the quality — and deliciousness — of the results. Via dei Frassini 31, 30 minutes on public transit from the Castello Sforzesco.

Pasticceria Cucchi. This elegant spot has been a local favorite since 1936. They’re famous across the city for their panettone, which (like the others) is made without preservatives and should be eaten fresh — and having tried it, I can say their fame is well-deserved.  Corso Genova 01, a stone’s throw from the Colonne di San Lorenzo.

Also: 6 of Rome’s finest trattorias and what to know about Christmas in Italy.

Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Updated, Expanded and New for 2017, which includes many more tips and tricks like these in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

The post What Is Panettone? (…It’s Not What You Think) appeared first on Revealed Rome.

Here are some of my favorite things to do in Rome at night.

What to do in Rome at night when you… want to do as the locals do, part I

The funny thing about this question is that, in many ways, it’s surprisingly easy to answer. Trying to figure out how to fill your schedule between the time that the sites close and night falls and when you go to sleep? Go to dinner.

That might sound glib. It shouldn’t. Keep in mind that Romans tend to eat dinner at about 9pm — so much so that restaurants that cater to locals won’t even open until 8pm. They also tend to linger at dinner longer (and, for better or for worse, serving can be slower) — which means you’ll see many groups of friends, or couples, sit down at 9pm and not leave until 11pm or even midnight.

So, obviously, that’s one way to fill your time. (And if you really want to fit in, don’t forget to read up on Italian dining etiquette first).

Which may leave you with the opposite problem: If you aren’t eating until 9pm, what do you do from 6pm until 9pm?

Well… eat more, of course! Aperitivo — sort of like happy hour, if happy hour came with an abundance of snacks — is a northern Italian tradition that has, wonderfully, made it to Rome. With a glass of wine or cocktail (or even, more and more now in Rome, a beer), you can pile up a plate with offerings like bruschetta, meats and cheeses and fritti (just one plate per drink, please). Aperitivo is usually a way to get the appetite going before a meal, so it’s the perfect way to fill your time between sightseeing and dinner.

What to do at night in Rome when you… want to do as the locals do, part II

Of course, no one’s saying that Romans always just have dinner at night. While aperitivo is one popular way to have a glass of wine with friends, it’s not the only way — plenty of wine bars (and an increasing number of beer spots) remain crowded all night long, many of which also have nibbles.

You won’t be at a loss for wine bars in Rome. Still, I especially love the buzzy, Roman vibe at the wine bar/restaurant Ai Tre Scalini in Monti (not the one near Piazza Navona… that’s important!) and the classic spot (albeit with terrible service) Il Goccetto in the cente. For beer, though Open Baladin remains a trendy go-to in the center, my new favorite is the funky Luppolo Station Roma in Trastevere (near the Trastevere train station). Whatever you do, just avoid the mess referred to as “nightlife” on Campo dei Fiori — unless your scene is under-25 foreigners, students and the locals who are there to pick them up, that is.

What to do at night in Rome when you’re… not ready to stop sightseeing

Want to see some of Rome’s finest sites and museums in a different way — with fewer crowds? Short on time and trying to cram it all in? Or just like the idea of lingering over a long lunch and sightseeing in the evening instead? (This can be an especially attractive option in the summer, when midday tends to be a very sweaty time to walk around). There’s good news: You’ve got lots of options.

On Thursday nights from May to the end of December (for 2018 — check back here for 2019 timings), the Colosseum is offering guided nighttime tours from 8pm until 10:10pm. Each tour (offered in Italian and English, so make sure you select the right option!) takes about 1hr 15 minutes and covers all of the basics of the Colosseum’s history, what it was used for and how it was built (no, it doesn’t go to the Colosseum underground). You’ll need to book this in advance.

On Friday nights from April to October, the Vatican museums open their doors from 7pm to 11pm. The upside? It’s an especially evocative way to see the palace, with fewer people and a more tranquil atmosphere, and there are even concerts (often chamber music or classical music). The downside? Not every single gallery will be open, so if you’re obsessive about wanting to see every single thing, it might not be for you. But pretty much every room any normal visitor would want to see — including the Raphael Rooms, Gallery of Maps and yes, of course, the Sistine Chapel — is open. Make sure to book this in advance.

Every night from April to November, there are two light shows and tours in the Imperial Forums: one in the Forum of Augustus, one in the Forum of Caesar. (Read what I thought about the light show on a recent tour here). They only happen at night, and they’re a great way to get a sense of what the forum would once have looked like. Do book your tickets in advance.

What to do at night in Rome when you… want to take in some culture

A crowded bar with live music, no matter how lovely, not quite for you? No problem. For music, check out the classical concerts at the world-renowned Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia or the ongoing calendar of events at the massive Auditorium Parco della Musica, where groups range from gospel to rock.

My personal favorite, though, is to take in a show at Rome’s answer to New York’s Met — the stunning Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. The venue, conveniently located near the Termini train station, isn’t much from the outside. But inside, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back into the time of Puccini: Think red velvet seats, gold accents and, in the ceiling, a fresco-encircled chandelier. From autumn to spring, there’s always a line-up of beloved opera and ballet classics (in the next few months, it’s Rigoletto, Swan Lake, La Traviata and Carmen). But if you’re lucky enough to be here in the summer, it gets even better: shows are held outdoors at the ancient Baths of Caracalla. Either way, prepare for a fantastic experience. I was moved to tears by ballet not once, but twice, here.

What to do at night in Rome when you… want to stretch your legs

I always love, love, love taking an evening stroll (or passeggiata) around the city center at night. Some of Rome’s most beautiful monuments, like the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain, are lit up. And even though there will still be people outside of the postcard favorites, they’re far less than you’d see during the day.

Of course, this can be especially pleasant in the evenings — but in the winter, too, I like to bundle up and go for a stroll. Taking a night walk across Rome is especially beautiful in December and early January, when all of the Christmas lights are up. (Don’t believe me? Here’s a sneak peek of how the city looks this time of year). And remember, most churches are open until about 8pm. So it’s worth popping into spots like the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi near Piazza Navona (don’t miss the Caravaggio paintings) and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva near the Pantheon (weigh in on the debate about if the statue at the front is really by Michelangelo… or his students) along the way.

If it’s one of your first couple of days in Rome and you’re more comfortable doing this on a walking tour, every tour company in the city offers a version of this, like Walks of Italy’s twilight city stroll with a gelato tasting and Dark Rome’s night walk with wine and aperitivo. The upside to all of them? You get a local’s insider tips, a bit of background on the sights you’ll see again and again and you don’t have to worry about getting lost.

What to do at night in Rome when you… want to (casually) listen to some live music

Compared to bigger, more cosmopolitan cities like London or New York, Rome doesn’t seem to have a ton of music venues at first glance. But you just have to know where to look.

For jazz and blues, I love Gregory’s (a tony, intimate spot beloved by both tourists and locals a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps — especially cozy in winter); Big Mama (the number-one Roman institution for jazz, with the feel more of a club or concert venue than a bar, in Trastevere); and Charity Cafe (a local’s haunt in Monti with a generous aperitivo and tiny bar in one room and a miniature concert area in the next). For indie, I like the funky venue BlackMarket in Monti, a bar that looks exactly like a shabby-chic home.

For more Rome nightlife offering music, go slightly farther afield: the young, hip (and student-heavy) districts of San Lorenzo and Pigneto, in particular, are busy with live music-filled bars.

Also: 6 of Rome’s finest trattorias, why you should visit the Jewish Ghetto and what to do in Rome when you’ve done… everything.

Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Updated, Expanded and New for 2017, which includes many more tips and tricks like these in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

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Ancient Rome fan? Then don’t miss my video for BBC Travel on whether Rome’s ancient world can be saved, plus previous posts on the most popular misconceptions about ancient Romans, one of my favorite ancient churches in Rome and the best books for reading about all things Roman history.

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The thing is, most people don’t come to Rome’s Jewish Ghetto with a long list of must-see sights in mind. After all, the Jewish Ghetto doesn’t have anything as well-known as, say, the Pantheon or Colosseum or St. Peter’s. Instead, people usually come to soak up the atmosphere, grab a bite to eat and then… carry on their way.

You could do that. But if you want to be a little more organized? Here are my six favorite sights to see in the Jewish Ghetto.

Theatre of Marcellus (Teatro di Marcello)

Also known to tourists as “that other Colosseum,” the Theatre of Marcellus is not the same thing as the Colosseum. The Colosseum was the home of vicious gladiatorial combat. The theatre of Marcellus? For plays, concerts and poetic recitals. Despite being more high-brow (and a bit less violent), though, this monument has a history almost as sad as the Colosseum. It was begun by Julius Caesar as a gift to the people (yay!), but left unfinished when Caesar wound up in a pool of blood about five minutes away (boo). Emperor Augustus, Caesar’s successor, finished it and dedicated the theatre in 13 BC to his nephew and son-in-law (noble families preferred to double up wherever possible). He was said to be a stand-up lad, beloved by Augustus, and was slated to be his successor (yay!)… until he fell ill and died at the age of 19 (boo). The theatre remained in use for several hundred years (yay!), until it was largely abandoned and became a quarry for other buildings by the end of the 4th century (boo).

Today, it’s been revived somewhat: People live in apartments on the upper floor (truly), while the sight itself hosts small concerts in the summer. You can’t go in during the day. But you still shouldn’t miss it. (As if you could!).

Portico of Octavia (Portico d’Ottavia)

Under scaffolding for ages, the Porticus Octaviae has finally been restored… hurrah! Its size seems impressive now, but when you see it, squint your eyes and try to imagine that these columns kept going: This is actually the fragment of a larger, colonnaded pathway that enclosed the temples of Jupiter Stator and Juno Regina inside. It gets its name from Augustus’s sister, who it was dedicated to around 27 AD. And that brick archway might seem relatively new, but it actually was built in the 5th century, which destroyed the columns that were originally there.

You can walk past the porticus once you pass the Theatre of Marcellus, and in a nice (and rare) touch for Rome, there are some signs with information about the ruins. Across from the portico, make sure to look up at the building. On the wall you’ll se a commemorative plaque in honor of the Jews who were taken by Nazis from here in 1943 and sent to concentration camps, never to return.

The Great Synagogue

This one is obvious… sorry. But! It’s also one of the biggest draws of the quarter. Rome’s Jewish Ghetto has a storied, and tragic, history. Although Jews have lived in Rome for 2,200 years — making it the longest continuously inhabited Jewish settlement in the world — the Ghetto is newer. It dates back to 1555, when it was walled off by the Pope. (To add insult to injury, Rome’s Jews were made to pay for the wall’s construction). In 1870, with the Unification of Italy, Jews were made citizens for the first time and the wall was demolished. The synagogue was built soon after, making it not only the quarter’s spiritual center but a symbol of hope and equality.

As well as attending services here, you can visit the museum, which has a small exhibition devoted to Rome’s Jewish history.

Piazza Mattei and the Turtle Fountain (Fontana delle Tartarughe)

There are dozens of fountains in Rome. But Piazza Mattei’s Turtle Fountain might just be the city’s most beloved. Built by the famous architect Giacomo della Porta in the 1580s, it features boys holding up bronze turtles (the turtles were added later, possibly by Bernini). The boys were once naked… but got fig leafed in the 1850s. The fountain is charming (if a bit odd). But I prefer what’s around the corner…

Palazzo Mattei

Once, this part of the Ghetto was made up of five different homes, all belonging to the Mattei family. The last one, built in the early 1600s, was Palazzo Mattei. Designed by none other than Carlo Maderno, it’s a Baroque layer cake of bas-reliefs, ancient statues, arches and stunning staircases. As well as the Matteis — a powerful patrician family — the painter Caravaggio lived here in 1601 (one of the Matteis was his patron at the time).

The best part about it? You can walk in to the courtyards to get a glimpse. (You can even sneak inside, if you promise to behave). That’s because a variety of cultural institutions are now based here. One is the Italian Centre for American Studies, which has a library of about 50,000 books. (Pro tip: For 50 euros a year, you can join the library. This means being able to take out books in English as well as being allowed to work in the stunning rooms, still with 17th-century frescoes. Seriously one of my highlights of living in Rome!).

The post What to See in the Jewish Ghetto of Rome: My Six Favorite Sights appeared first on Revealed Rome.

First, let’s talk about what the Colosseum underground actually is.

When people hear “underground” in Rome, they automatically think catacombs. But when it comes to the Colosseum, that’s not exactly — okay, not at all — the case. We’re not talking about a spooky cemetery; instead, we’re talking about a backstage area.

• Also: how should I schedule my sightseeing in Rome?, a fun tour of Rome’s hidden ancient spots and what to do in Rome when you’ve done… everything

That’s right. Think of the Colosseum’s underground as where all of the work required to host these massive, bloody pageants really went on. It’s where gladiators waited for their turn to fight. It’s where the animals were caged. It’s where the mechanical lift (yes, you heard that right) was hoisted up to spring said gladiators and animals through hidden trap doors in the arena stand, stunning and, one would assume, impressing the crowd.

If that doesn’t sound every bit as spooky as a catacomb, you’re not using your imagination.

As crucial as the Colosseum underground once was, it only opened to tourists for the first time in 2010, and then only sporadically. (One reason was that it was flooded with rain, which remains a risk). Now, it’s open more regularly. As before, there are two main ways to visit the Colosseum underground: either by booking a Colosseum underground tour with a Colosseum guide, or by booking one of the few independent tour agencies that has the right to take you in itself.

Either way, they don’t let you wander around the underground unaccompanied, so you have to take a tour.

What has changed since 2010 is that the tour has become so popular, it’s rather annoying to book the official Colosseum tour yourself. When it first opened, you could only book by calling. Then you could online.

Now, you still can book online — but you have to do it during a specific booking window. Reservations open the third Monday of each month for the month that follows. If this seems somewhat overcomplicated, welcome to Italy. (This scheduling, like all else, can change, so keep on top of it by checking the official Colosseum tour page here and scrolling down to the section marked “Notice” on the left).

Don’t want to deal with all that? I get you. A few weeks ago, when I realized it had been (ahem) eight years since I last toured the underground, I skipped the Monday-for-next-month process and took a tour with Walks of Italy. If you’re a frequent visitor to my site, you know that I know these guys — I used to work with them and still stay in touch, which meant they were nice enough to gift me a spot. (Thanks guys!). They also happen to be the only agency allowed to use their own tour guide down in the Colosseum underground section, so I figured there was no better company to use.

Of the two options, booking directly with the Colosseum itself is the shorter, and cheaper, tour: less than an hour and an extra  €9 on top of the €12 entrance (which you have to book separately).

Like its competitor Dark Rome, which offers a similar tour, the Walks of Italy Colosseum underground tour includes the Palatine and Forum, so it’s a lot longer (3.5 hours) and more expensive (€95, which includes your €12 entrance).

Okay, but no matter how I do it, is the Colosseum underground worth it?

Right: Is either underground Colosseum tour worth it? And is the (far more expensive) Walks of Italy or Dark Rome underground Colosseum tour worth it?

It depends.

To be blunt, there isn’t a huge amount to see down there. There are rooms that would have been tunnels. There is the recreation of an ancient lift, which is pretty remarkable. There’s the unique perspective of being above the arena, looking up (though this will disappear when they cover the arena back over, a new project in planning).

But, and this is a big but: The Colosseum underground gives you a real sense of the cramped spaces the gladiators would have stood in — waiting, sweating, worrying (unless they were crazy) — and a sense of just how elaborate this whole operation was. This wasn’t bare-bones fighting. This was theatre.

For that alone, it’s worth it.

That’s not to mention the bragging rights of having seen a part of the Colosseum that most of your friends won’t have, of course.

Should you do the Colosseum underground tour only or the whole shebang with Dark Rome or Walks of Italy? That depends, too.

First, if you’ve never been to the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine before, or you did go, but didn’t get a full appreciation of what’s there — which is just going to be the reality if you went with only a guidebook and you’re not an ancient Rome expert — then a guided tour of the whole area is worth it. Trust me. This is the part of Rome where Cleopatra walked and Caesar’s body was burned, where the Vestal Virgins lived and where emperors were murdered. You don’t want to miss these stories. But miss them you will, because even the best guidebook can’t bring them to life the way a good guide can.

For that reason, I usually tell people that if they only do one tour in all of Rome, take it of the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine. Yes, even over the Vatican.

That means, for me, a tour like the Walks of Italy one is indeed worth it. But I’m a huge history nerd, so my one gripe with the Walks tour was that making just three or four stops in the Forum and a couple on the Palatine before arriving at the Colosseum made the tour feel rather short. (There’s so much more there!).

Of course, this is the problem with any group tour, even a small group tour: You’re going to be on a schedule. But did most of the other visitors seem to think that we were curtailing our time by spending only 45 minutes in the Forum? Of course not. Still, be warned. If you are an ancient Rome obsessive who wants to loiter around ruins all morning, any group tour, obviously, is not for you. (Let me introduce you instead to the idea of doing a private tour with Context, the tour agency whose expert guides can talk for literally hours about any given site…. that, or watching a bunch of documentaries and going it on your own).

For the rest of us, is the Colosseum underground worth it — including on a longer tour?

100%.

Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Updated, Expanded and New for 2017/2018, which includes many more tips and tricks like these in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here. I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

The post The Colosseum Underground: Is It Worth It? appeared first on Revealed Rome.

To recap, a few months ago, I published a massive 2017 update of my popular guidebook for Rome. But it was still available as an e-book only (either for Kindle or as a PDF). Many of you emailed to ask if I’d be publishing a print version of the Rome guidebook, too.

It took me a little while (turns out, designing and formatting a book and its cover for print is complicated!). But in December, it finally hit Amazon here. Here’s a little peek at what the cover looks like:

Keep in mind that, while I’ve started calling the Revealed Rome Handbook a guidebook for Rome for convenience’s sake, keep in mind that it’s not your traditional guidebook. I don’t provide information you can easily find in a million other places — like opening hours of the Colosseum, or the history of the Vatican Museums. Instead, I give you all of the information that you need a local to tell you — things like:

• how to pick an authentic Roman restaurant at a glance
• budget accommodation options you may not have considered
• the one place to never take a taxi
• secrets to skipping the lines at the Colosseum, the Vatican and more
• off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods that should be on your list
• how to eat gluten-free, vegetarian or with other dietary restrictions
• key tips for booking (and taking) trains
• here to find drinking water, and bathrooms, while out and about
• how to protect yourself from pickpockets
• the best neighborhoods in Rome for shopping

…and much more.

The book isn’t meant to be overwhelming. It’s even uniquely organized according to what point you are in planning (or undertaking) your trip — so you can read it one chapter at a time over months, if you want.

But as I learned when I proofed the print version, it’s still pretty hefty, clocking in at more than 200 pages!

You can find the print version of the Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks to the Eternal City on Amazon here. If you’re trying to decide between versions, a couple of notes. Despite the different covers (which I still need to update), both the print and e-book versions are the same. Some of you might prefer the e-book. It’s cheaper, and because it has lots of live links embedded, you can navigate the book by clicking around. But if you like the ease of flipping through (real) pages, you want a pretty little reminder of Rome on your bookshelf, or you’re thinking of giving a guidebook for Rome as a gift, then check out the print version.

Best of both worlds, of course, might be to have the print version to read in advance and the e-book at your fingertips when you’re actually in Rome. For just that purpose, I’ve arranged for a special deal through Amazon — if you buy the print version, the e-book is just $1.99 extra.

As always, happy trip planning. I hope you enjoy Rome… and the Revealed Rome guidebook! (And stay tuned: I’m rolling out e-book versions on platforms other than Amazon, including on Apple Books, in 2018).

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