Don't want to plunk down cash or credit for Rome's (pricy) accommodation? No problem: From Nov. 18 to 24, 83 B&Bs in Rome will—get this—accept a bartered good or service instead. And 35 are actually open to the idea year-round. Find out more with my piece over at BBC Travel.
Cleopatra Returns to Rome: New Exhibit at the Chiostro del Bramante
Cleopatra, history’s most famous (and possibly fascinating) queen, is the insipiration for a new exhibit in Rome: “Cleopatra: Rome and the Magic of Egypt.”
On at the Chiostro del Bramante until February, the show’s aim is to contextualize Cleopatra’s life and times. It brings together more than 180 pieces from the ancient world, including frescoes, mosaics, jewelry, coins, and, yes, portraits of the major players, including several never-before-publicly-shown portraits of Cleopatra herself.
Read more about the exhibit in my latest article for the BBC.
The Move to Rome, Four Years Later (Or, What I Learned from Following A Crazy Pipe Dream)
Today marks my fourth anniversary… with Rome.
Of course, it’s been an up-and-down relationship. And will it be “till death do us part”? Too early to say. But, like any epic romance, Rome has changed my life—and changed me—in ways that, just a short time ago, seemed highly unlikely.
And so I’m incredibly thankful that, four years ago, a younger version of myself faced up to some serious questions. Am I happy doing what I’m doing? What might make me happier? And, most crucially, What might I regret not doing?
They are the same questions that, at some point, we all have to face. And the answers I got back were, as they are for so many people, incredibly intimidating. If not downright scary.
At the Vatican, a Brand-New, “Slow Food” Sandwich Shop
Looking for food near the Vatican… that’s quick, cheap, and delicious? Although eating in the Vatican food desert neighborhood can be tough, it just got a lot easier, thanks to Mangia!—a stylish new sandwich shop that uses organic and Slow Food ingredients.
Oh, and Bonci bread. More on that in a minute.
Reveal Rome, Episode 1
How to Get from Ciampino Airport to Rome (Updated for 2019)
Need to get from Ciampino airport to Rome? Yeah, you could take a taxi. But unless some serious stress and/or getting ripped off immediately on landing in Italy is your thing, you probably won’t want to. Luckily, there are lots of other ways to get from Ciampino to Rome.
Better yet, these options are easy, fast… and much cheaper than taking a taxi or transfer. All of these options get you into the Termini train station; from there, you can jump on Rome’s metro (either the A or B lines), take a bus, or grab a cab (from Termini, it shouldn’t be more than €15 at the most to get to another part of the city center).
(Wondering about Uber? Don’t worry — that’s at the end too).
(Note: This information has been updated as of December 2018).
New Video: The Coolest Keyhole in Rome
that you can see through it.
Don’t Take a Taxi at Rome’s Ciampino Airport. Here’s Why (Updated for 2019)
Never, ever take a taxi from the Rome airport of Ciampino.
Why? Because, it turns out, the taxi drivers at Ciampino have a racket going on — one revolving around (illegally) ripping off tourists.
Restaurants in Rome Open in August
Traditionally, much of Rome shuts down in August. (Thank Emperor Augustus for that). That’s less the case every year, with businesses trying to stay open for more of the summer, thanks to a little something known as the economic crisis.
Even so, lots of independent stores and restaurants still close for much of August. And, when it comes to dining, that includes some of the best spots.
The Best Beaches Near Rome (Updated for 2019)
Looking for the best beaches near Rome? I don’t blame you: Although you always can cool off at a swimming pool in Rome, there’s nothing like dipping your toes into the Mediterranean on a sweltering summer day.
Here’s a roundup of 5 of my favorite Rome beaches, located as little as 45 minutes away.
One tip: When heading to the beach near Rome, remember that most Italian beaches aren’t public. In other words, most swaths of beach are serviced by private establishments, so you’ll have to rent a cabana to claim your spot on the sand. This generally costs about €10 to €15 per day. The good news? You’ll definitely appreciate the shade — and the ability to order food and drinks from the servers who pass through.
- Also: where to beat the heat in Rome, the most idyllic island escapes from Rome and why you should add Naples to your list.
The most picturesque beach, and beach town, near Rome: Sperlonga
Sperlonga is my top choice for a beach near Rome. That’s partly because of its white-washed resort town, lovely stretch of sand, and clean water (it’s been given Blue Flag designation for its environmental initiatives and cleanliness). And the views from the town make it one of the most picturesque seaside spots near Rome.
And, okay. I might also love Sperlonga because of the nearby archaeological museum, on the site of Emperor Tiberius’ ancient grotto, which boasts stunning ancient sculptures by the same guys who did the Laocoön. (Yes, I’m a history nerd). But even if you don’t make it to the museum (although you should!), the beach and town alone make the trip worth it.
By public transport, Sperlonga takes about 1.5 hours to get to from Rome. Find out more about Sperlonga, and getting there, in my previous post on the beach town of Sperlonga.
The beach near Rome with the best nightlife: Fregene
Want to do as the Romans do? Then follow up a day in the sun with aperitivo, drinking, and dancing. Fregene, located 23 miles northwest of Rome, is such a popular nightlife spot, I have friends who have gone there just for the evenings — skipping the whole daytime-sunbathing thing altogether.
Of course, Fregene is also nice during the day. And Maccarese, next door, tends to be a much less crowded option than other beaches near Rome, like Ostia.