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Forget the Colosseum: When it comes to a symbol of Rome and la dolce vita, the Vespa's where it's at.
Like most Rome fantasies, this one doesn't always have a ton of bearing in reality. Yes, almost everyone here has a scooter. But no, it's not usually an adorable, sparkling, vintage Vespa. Those are expensive… and (haven't you heard?), there's an economic crisi here!
Still. I've had Vespas on my mind lately, thanks to a travel story I've been working on (more on that later!). And, whether the vehicles used by most of my friends could come out of a scene from Roman Holiday or not, whipping around Rome on a scooter—even a banged-up, anything-but-beautiful one—remains one of my favorite ways to get from Point A to Point B in the city. It's hands-down the most convenient. And, yes, it can be romantic.
In homage to seeing Rome by scooter, here are three movie clips to transport you.
Forgive me for the last one.
Ah, the face that launched a thousand dreams of Rome: Audrey Hepburn. In particular, Audrey Hepburn taking Gregory Peck's Vespa for a near-death experience adventure-filled spin. Although I'm hard-pressed to pick a favorite scene from this movie—which is, of course, the 1953 Roman Holiday—this might just have to be it.
And if you're wondering, yes, Rome's traffic is every bit as crazy today as it looks like it was then.
What Roman Holiday did for tourists' imaginings of Vespas and Rome, Nanni Moretti's Caro Diario did for locals. The first 10 minutes of the movie follows the protagonist on his sojourn through Rome's streets—not its main, all-too-famous piazzas and avenues, but the places known to locals, like the pretty neighborhood of Garbatella. And, because it's ferragosto in Rome, the streets are completely deserted.
When I looked up movie clips showing Vespas in Rome on YouTube, this came up. And while I'm kind of really embarrassed to include it (I promise, not being a 12-year-old girl, this is not a movie I have ever seen), I thought that the scene, while clearly sickly-sweet (and inaccurate: what Roman would ever say "This is Rome. Nobody knows how to drive"?), does a cute job of showing the sights in Rome's centro storico. They start at Piazza Farnese (and no, in real life you can't drive a scooter there), then move on to Via Nazionale (0:15), Piazza del Popolo (0:19), Via Nazionale again at Trajan's markets (0:28), the Palace of Justice (0:35), Via Giulia (I think) (0:40), Piazza della Repubblica (1:02), Pantheon (also not allowed) (1:11), Spanish Steps (1:18, and they must have filmed this at sunrise for it to be so empty).
And no, that route makes no sense whatsoever. But pretty sights, right?
Also, I really hope Hilary Duff doesn't wind up with this Italian boy at the end of the film. Because picking-up-a-straniera-via-scooter, in more ways than one, would be the oldest trick in the book. (Oh Audrey, if you only knew what you'd started back in '53).
If you’re coming to Rome from abroad, you’ll probably be landing at the Rome Fiumicino airport. And by the time you get off your flight, you’ll be jet-lagged, exhausted, and anything but “switched on.” No matter how excited you are to be in Rome.
That’s why you have to have an idea of how you’ll get from the airport to your Rome hotel before you land. Because otherwise, that taxi driver who (illegally) approaches you at the terminal to offer you a ride, when your hands are full of bags and you’ve realized your phrasebook Italian isn’t enough to ask someone where you should go, might seem tempting.
Less so 80 or 90 euros later.
Luckily, getting from Fiumicino into the center of Rome by public transport is pretty straightforward. You just need to know what your options are in advance!
Nota bene: If you have a ton of luggage, I’d recommend booking a transfer or taking a taxi. That’s because, when you get into the city on your train or bus, you’ll probably have to transfer to another form of public transport. Not only does that often involve some walking, but even at some metro stations—like the Colosseo metro stop—there’s no escalator or elevator whatsoever, only stairs. And if you’re in three people or more, it’s a no-brainer: splitting a taxi winds up being almost as cheap as the train.
The tourist train “Leonardo da Vinci Express” train
The Leonardo da Vinci Express takes you right to Termini—which can be a good option, but isn’t always the best
The train station at Fiumicino is located within short walking distance of the baggage claim. Just follow the signs for the train station, or ask anyone at the airport. Most travelers planning on taking the train into central Rome opt for the Leonardo da Vinci Express train. It goes directly from the airport to Termini station, making no stops, and takes half an hour. (From Termini, you have to get to your hotel on your own, however—and if you opt for a cab, it’s likely to be another €10 to €15. So always consider whether it’s just cheaper to take a cab or transfer directly from the airport, instead!).
Because it does go to Termini, unlike the other train, then if you know you need to take the metro line A to your hotel, this is a good bet. Still, locals know better than to take the Leonardo da Vinci. Why? Because it costs €14 each way—and, instead, you could just take…
The regional train (treno regionale)
The normal, regionale train leaves from the same station at Fiumicino, also takes a half an hour, and costs just €8 each way. However, it doesn’t go to Termini. Instead, it makes several stops in Rome, including at Stazione Ostiense—probably the most useful if you’re staying in the centro storico.
To get from Ostiense station to the center, either hop a cab outside the station or follow the signs for the metro; a 5-minute walk brings you to the Piramide metro stop on the B line. From there, it’s two stops to the Colosseo metro stop or four to Termini, where you can switch to the A line.
If you’re staying in Testaccio or near the Colosseum, are planning on getting a cab from the station in Rome to your hotel anyway, and/or are on a tight budget, this is a good bet.
The bus
Several buses run from Fiumicino to the city center. They take a little under an hour, depending on traffic, but are a cheaper option than the train. They include the SIT bus shuttle, Terravision bus (run by Ryanair), COTRAL bus, and ATRAL-Lazio bus. Each costs about €5, each way, and most go right to the Termini train station.
The taxi (with, yay, a flat rate!)
You could always take a taxi…
There is a flat rate to go from the Fiumicino airport to the city center: €48, including all luggage and any extra charges.
As soon as you get in a taxi at the airport, therefore, make sure your driver does not run the meter and only pay that amount at the end. It is illegal for your driver to charge you more.
By the center of Rome, by the way, I (and the city of Rome) mean anything within the Aurelian walls. So if you’re staying anywhere near Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, or Colosseum, you’re good. If you have any doubt about whether the hotel is in the centro storico, ask your hotel in advance; if it’s outside of the historic center, your driver has the right to run the meter and to charge you supplements instead of the flat fare. (And probably will).
Booking a transfer in advance
Finally, you can, of course, book a transfer with a company in advance; there are a million and one Rome transfer companies (and tour companies that offer transfers). The price is generally €65 and up, but if you don’t want to deal with the stress of making sure a taxi won’t screw you over, and you just want to be able to relax knowing that a driver will be waiting for you, with your name on a sign, right when you get out of baggage claim, then this is the option for you.
Uber
Yes: the app taking over the world’s cities has made it to Rome (much to the consternation of taxi drivers). Although the basic idea of this ride-sharing app is similar to other cities, there’s one big difference. Rome doesn’t offer UberX or the other lower-priced services; it only has the higher-end services: UberBLACK, UberLUX and UberVAN. That means that, often, taking an Uber is as expensive as (or more expensive than) taking a taxi. But it also means that drivers often aren’t “normal” people picking up some cash on the side, but rather professional drivers, which is a benefit. From Ciampino airport (which has WiFi, so you can book an Uber using the Uber app on your phone when you arrive), it should be about €40 into the center, although, as always with Uber, it depends on pricing and availability at that time. (You get a fare estimate before you book). Update, October 2017: The legal status of Uber in Italy has been changing as of late — it was banned in April, then re-legalized in May — so before you count on it, double-check by Googling it online.
Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Updated, Expanded and New for 2017, which includes many more tips and tricks like these in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.
However. I’ve made a big stinktheme out of supporting Rome’s artisans and independent stores. As I’ve explored the non-chain-store side of Rome shopping, I’ve found some pretty great shops. And more and more readers have been requesting for me to share some of my finds with them.
So: I’ll be doing so more frequently. Starting with this outfit, which I bought just last week.
The dress is handmade, fairtrade, and made from organic cotton. (I wish the pictures could show just how soft and comfortable the material is!). I found it at Altromercato, the fairtrade store near Piazza del Popolo, on Via di Ripetta 262; the store was under renovations for a while, but just reopened.
(By the way, as well as clothing and jewelry, Altromercato sells toiletries and even food. I walked out not only with this dress, but with an armful of organic pasta and sauce from the anti-Mafia organization Libera Terra).
The shoes, which are handmade, suede, and super comfortable, are from Barrila Boutique, another store near Piazza del Popolo. The store is located at Via di Babuino 34.
And, no, I couldn’t decide between the blue and the pink, so—especially because I can never find shoes I like—I scooped up both pairs.
I updated the “Neighborhoods” section, which includes Rome’s sights, museums, churches, and more—and, as you might expect, is more than half the book. There was a lot of fact-checking (and correcting!) involved, so check it out… and let me know what you think! You can get the new Fodor’s edition on Amazon here. (And if you want more personalized advice than what any guidebook can give you, check out my one-on-one Italy travel chats!).
Rumor has it he made his horse a consul, his palace a brothel, and his sisters his, erm, “girlfriends.” Two thousand years later, the jury’s still out on how crazy Emperor Caligula really was.But one thing’s for certain: He was, and remains, a fascinating character.
That’s why I was thrilled to be a host/”story-teller” for the History Channel’s 2-hour documentary on the Roman emperor, produced by North South Productions. And, having premiered in Australia and New Zealand, the documentary is finally coming out in the U.S.
So mark your calendars: The U.S. premiere date for “Caligula: 1400 Days of Terror” is Tuesday, Oct. 9 at 9pm. Tune in to hear me and other friends in Rome, including Katie Parla and Darius Arya, share the latest theories behind this still-mysterious figure!
Update, Oct. 4: The preview has just been put online! You can get a glimpse of the show here.
Update, Nov. 5: You can now buy the documentary for instant download from Amazon for $2.99; get it here.
Want to take travel photos that make Rome look its best? Then read on!
If you're traveling to Italy, you'll probably be taking (lots of) photographs.
And, look. Not everyone cares about taking great travel photographs.(Believe me, I get it—I often take photos just to help me remember where I was!).
Even so, having a few tips in mind can help. For one, it means you'll spend less time on your trip fiddling with settings—or frustrated when your photos don't turn out right. For another, better photos mean you can avoid boring your relatives, and Facebook friends, to death with your trip albums. Not to mention that it's pretty rewarding to return from a trip and have some photographs you're actually proud of (and maybe that you even want to print and frame!).
Here are five top tips for how to take great photos in Rome (or, well, anywhere).
Don't think you need a super-fancy camera or DSLR to take great photos
I didn't have my DSLR on me when I happened to catch the sun setting over the forum. Instead, this is taken with my Sony Cybershot—which is a fantastic camera, but notably less expensive than a DSLR.
I also grabbed a shot with my iPhone 4S, which handled the scene (and lack of light) remarkably well.
Yes, I have a DSLR. (A 3-year-old Nikon D90, to be precise). Now that I've learned how to use it (more on that in a moment), I love it. But some of my favorite photos weren't taken with a "fancy camera"; they were taken with a point-and-shoot or, in some cases, an iPhone.
So, truly. Don't feel like you have to be limited by your equipment. Just learn to use what you've got. And if you don't have the time to learn your camera, don't bother to invest in it. Seriously.
Read the camera manual. Or at least the first few pages.
Can you get a shot like this one if you never open your manual? Sure. Is it a whole lot easier if you know your camera? Absolutely.
This is a favorite tip from my friend, and uber-talented travel photographer, Ken Kaminesky. "Read. The. Manual." He couldn't be more correct.
When I first bought my DSLR, the (100-page!) manual overwhelmed me. So, instead, I did what any aspiring photographer busy person would do: I didn't read it. Instead, for the first year, I took almost all of my photographs on the "automatic" setting.
Here's the thing. Because of the high quality of the camera itself, my photos came out crisper and clearer than they would have with a more basic point-and-shoot. But? I still took a lot of crappy photos. The camera would focus on something I didn't want it to. Or the photo would come out blurry, especially when I was taking photos without much light (more on that later).
Frustrated, I finally sat down and, you guessed it, read the manual. And wow. Did my photography get better. There was no way I could possibly remember everything I read, but it at least laid the groundwork. And I make a point of trying to re-skim it every so often. Every time I do, I find some new capability I could be using that I'd forgotten about.
So whether you've invested in a "serious camera" or not, make sure you read at least the start of your manual. There's no excuse for you to not know how to, say, turn your flash on and off. Seriously.
Avoid taking photos at midday
In the late afternoon, the light has softened to a lovely glow, with interesting shadows
Good photographers know that the best time for picture-taking tends to be in the early morning or late afternoon. Midday, the sun is directly overhead and at its strongest, casting a harsh, unflattering light on everything (and everyone).
But this is a particularly good tip for sunny Rome, especially in the summer. From about 11am to 3pm, the sun bleaches out everything. Even the Colosseum looks uninteresting. So, instead, and especially if it's a sunny day, try to take your shots as far out of that window as possible.
The late afternoon, an hour or so before the sun goes down, is when I tend to have the best luck: The light is warm, flattering, and beautiful, but there's still enough of it that you don't have to worry about camera-shake (keep reading if you don't know what that is).
Know when there is, and isn't, enough light (hello, Rome churches, restaurants, and sunsets)
In a situation like this—the underground of the church of San Crisogono in Trastevere—you'll obviously need some extra strategies to get enough light. But Rome's underground isn't the only place where you'll have to work around the darkness!
Ever taken photos of, say, a church interior, gotten back home, and wondered why they were so fuzzy?
It's probably because there wasn't enough light.
When you're inside, or when the sun is just starting to set, there often isn't enough light for the camera to "see" properly without a flash. That darkness isn't something you always automatically notice yourself, because our eyes naturally adjust in a matter of nanoseconds. But your camera isn't quite as adaptable. You have to tell it to adapt.
So if there's less light, and your camera is doing its automatic thang, then either your flash pops up… or the shutter speed slows down. That lets the camera's shutter stay open, longer, to capture more light. But the longer the shutter is open for, the more the camera isregistering not just the light, but also the natural vibrations of your hands—i.e., "camera shake." Result: blurry photos.
For crisp interior and dusk or nighttime photos, you have a few basic options. You can use a tripod (or rest your camera on a makeshift tripod, like a chair, the floor, or church pew). You can turn on the flash (although please see below first). You can crank up the ISO, which represents your camera's sensitivity to light. (The higher the ISO is, though, the worse-quality, and grainier, the photos tend to be).
To get this shot without a lot of camera shake (my shutter speed was at 1/60, already a little too slow for my liking), I had to crank up the ISO to 1600. Result: it's less fuzzy than it would have been, but is starting to show some graininess.
Or, depending on your comfort with your "manual" setting, you can change the F-stop. The lower the number of the F-stop, the less "depth of field" there is. That means the camera will focus on a narrower and narrower point, blurring whatever's farther away from, or closer than, that particular subject.
An example of low depth of field: Instead of the entire cupcake, wrapper, and table being in focus, only the frosting is. (Also, now I'm hungry).
Finally, a trick I use when I have no other option: Take several photos right in a row, just keeping the button pressed down. Often, what causes the most "shake" is the movement of depressing the shutter button. So while the first photo might be blurry, the second or third one might not be. Here are two photos I took, with all of the same settings, right in a row in this Rome restaurant:
First photo I took
Second photo: same exact specs, but less camera shake
Know when flash is and isn't appropriate
A good tourist, like this one, knows to turn off the flash in a church
Especially when photo-takers notice their nighttime or interior shots aren't coming out right, they tend to turn on the flash.
However. Please keep in mind that, first of all, your flash doesn't go that far. So if you're, say, at the overlook of the Roman forum while the sun is setting, hoping to get that perfect dusk shot of the ruins 50 yards away, the flash is not going to make a difference.
And, depending on where you are, using your flash can be annoying and even rude. Times you should never use flash include:
when you're inside a church and people are praying, or a Mass is going on
when you're at an indoor or outdoor performance (the number of flashes going off at the opera at the arena of Verona killed me… especially because, again, everyone was way too far from the stage for the flash to make their photos come out any better—all it did was annoy everyone)
when you're taking a photo of delicate artwork, including frescoes or (even more importantly) cloth or tapestries (the Hall of Tapestries in the Vatican, I'm talking about you), since the flash is damaging
Other problems with flash: It can bleach out your subject, and its light is pretty flattening. (Not flattering. Flattening).
As a result, here are the only two times I tend to use flash:
when I'm in a hurry and don't have time to fiddle with various settings before the shot slips away, or
when I'm taking a photograph of a subject when the light is coming directly from behind them (for example, a friend of mine standing in front of a sunset). This is called being "backlit." The camera might not automatically tell me it wants to use flash, because it thinks there's enough light from behind my subject. But I know that, if I let it just go on its automatic way, my friend will be just a silhouette in front of a sunset. That can be cool, but if I want to actually see her face, I have to turn on the flash.
One time to use flash: when you'd be backlit otherwise
Want more tips? Check out The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon, below, or through my site here!
Don't grab a cornetto (Italy's answer to the croissant) at just any old cafe. (Lots of them are bought, frozen, in bulk—ew!). Check out my guide for where to find the best cornetti in Rome for Serious Eats.
Nota bene: This piece required eating an absurd amount of cornetti. And while one goes down easy… but let me tell you, three in a row gets painful. Oh, the sacrifice! #travelwriterproblems
Why just grab a leather jacket off the rack… when you can pick the color and design yourself?
Just in time for the first day of fall: a workshop near the Spanish Steps that makes leather jackets. (And fur coats!). (Update, December 2016: Agostino’s store moved in November 2016. He’s now at Via dei Maroniti 13, near the Trevi Fountain—and only slightly further from the Spanish Steps. The store’s name is now Crisafulli Leather Fashion).
I discovered the Sistina 26 Crisafulli leather workshop a couple of months ago, and the owner, Agostino—a friendly Sicilian with a passion for all things artigianale—was more than happy to give me a tour. He and his wife, Elisa, not only run the shop, but design all of the jackets. And, as is always one of the best things about getting something handmade, they’re happy to alter the designs to suit anyone’s particular preference. And yes, they’re happy to ship abroad.
The cozy workshop in the back was everything an artisan’s workshop should be, included cluttered and humming with a current creation.
In the works: a blue leather jacket
The store in the front has a number of jackets already made, in every color and type of leather imaginable, for both men and women. The styles range from classic to funky to, well, frankly outrageous. (Please see: green-and-yellow jacket, below).
Here are just a few of the leather jackets Agostino showed me:
Agostino models one of his men’s jackets
For the very bold!
My favorite jacket in the store—an absolute classic
And if fur’s your preference, they’ve got that too.
Fox, and beaver, and rabbit, oh my!
So if you’re thinking of splashing out this fall on a leather jacket that’ll last for years, check out Crisafulli. Because the only thing better than a leather jacket from Italy… is a handmade jacket made just for you.
I’m always on the lookout for vintage stores in Rome, and it’s no secret I’m kind of obsessed with Via del Boschetto for shopping. So imagine my excitement to come across King Size Vintage, a brand-spanking-new (it opened just a few days ago) addition to the street.
King Size Vintage already had a location in the gritty students’ quarter of San Lorenzo. But now that it’s moved to Monti, I’ll be paying it many more visits. Especially because the shop itself is beautifully done. The space is large, at least for stores in Rome’s centro storico, and the owners have resisted the vintage-store temptation of completely cramming it with items. Result? Browsing is fun. And anything but overwhelming.
(Note: This information was updated in April 2017).
Especially when a little exploration yields details like these:
(Closeups of some lovely vintage swimsuits)
(Drawers full of wallets and belts)
(Leopard-print Fendi blouse, €65)
(The rack of women’s blouses and dresses)
(Old-school sneakers)
(Beautiful detail on a €25 purse)
Bonus: This is one of the better-priced vintage stores I’ve seen in Rome. Even the high-end designer items are more than fairly priced.
I’d be lying if I said I didn’t scoop up a couple of items while doing, um, “research.”
King Size Vintage in Monti is now located on Via Leonina 78/79. Telephone: +39 064817045. Website: facebook.com/kingsize.vintage.
If you liked this post, you’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.
