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New to Revealed Rome? Start Here

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Rome-travel-planning

Planning a trip to Rome? Let this page serve as your guide to the posts that are the most helpful in planning your Rome trip. I’ll be updating this as I continue to write new posts, so check back as you travel plan.

And remember, if you just want to  talk to me to get the most up-to-the-minute, personalized advice possible—on not just Rome, but all of Italy—I offer private, one-hour travel consulting sessions (much cheaper than a travel agent!).

Before you book a single thing for your Rome trip

Temple-in-Ghetto-for-web-after-rain
Buy my book! Just kidding. Sort of. Not really.

Know what misconceptions to lose about Rome right now—before you even book a hotel or plan to rent a car.

Get 8 indispensable tips for planning a trip to Rome.

Stay informed, and inspired: Subscribe to my YouTube channel and follow my Facebook page (this for Rome topics only, this for travel in general) for fun videos, photos, and more of goings-on in Italy.

Coming in summer? Don’t miss my guide to Rome in summer (including the best beaches, swimming pools, events, and more).

Read up on Rome and its fascinating history with some books so juicy, you’ll forget they’re nonfiction. (In fact, here’s a complete collection of Italy-related books, movies, documentaries, and T.V. shows I love that’ll help you get excited—and informed—before your trip).

Be a responsible traveler in Italy—and have a better time traveling, too—with these 7 tips.

Get excited about visiting Rome by watching my 3-minute video guide for MSN U.K. on some of my favorite spots in the city.

Coming as a couple? Here are 5 of the most romantic spots in Rome.

Worried about the weather? Learn why rain in Rome isn’t always a bad thing.

Planning on taking photos in Rome? Then don’t miss these 5 photography tips (and yes, it’s worth reading them before you come!).

Booking a hotel in Rome

First, you have to know which Rome neighborhood you want to stay in.

On a budget? Here are 5 favorite places to stay for €80 a night or less. 

On a honeymoon or romantic trip? Here are my picks for the most romantic hotels in Rome.

Just need some of my favorites? Check out my articles on top places to stay in Rome here, here and here. And don’t forget short-term apartment rentals.

Getting to (and around) Rome

Here’s how to get from the Fiumicino-Leonardo da Vinci airport to Rome.

Here’s how to get from Ciampino airport to Rome. And why you should never, ever take a taxi from Ciampino.

Listen to me chat about how to get around Rome on public transport on the “How to Tour Italy” radio program here.

Sightseeing in Rome

Colosseum fall autumn
Just some general advice to get you started…

There are 3 sights in Rome you must book in advance — or you won’t be allowed in. Eek!

Rome isn’t a 7-11. Some things are only open at certain times (or days). Find out what’s best to visit, when.

Here’s what to know if you’re sightseeing in Rome with kids.

Want to go to a soccer game in Rome? Here’s what to expect.

Here are 5 of the most overrated things to do in Rome, and what to do instead.

One of the best places to be in Rome? Underground. Listen to me chat about why on the How to Tour Italy radio show.

And some specific spots to check out:

The Colosseum underground — which, yes, is currently open — is pretty darn cool.

So is the Domus Aurea, which was closed what-seems-like-forever (the better part of 15 years, anyway) and is now open through the summer.

There may be no lovelier—or more ruins-filled—walk in Rome than this one.

At Palazzo Valentini, ancient ruins are brought to life with cutting-edge light shows.

Get a sense of ancient Rome’s scale at the enormous Baths of Caracalla. During the summer, you can even see performances there.

I adore Palazzo Massimo, a little-visited archaeological museum right near the Termini train station that boasts top-notch ancient frescoes, sculptures, and mosaics.

And this might be the best museum in Rome that’s not already on your list.

Palazzo Barberini has some top-notch paintings and a fantastic ceiling fresco.

Churches in Rome aren’t just holy sights, but spots worth visiting for their art, architecture, history, and even ancient ruins. Here are 12 of the most fascinating churches in Rome.

For truly off-the-beaten-path (and amazing) underground archaeological sites, look no further than here or here.

Finally: Promise me you’ll go to the Galleria Borghese. Just promise.

Eating in Rome

Arte-e-vino-meal-castel-gandolfo-for-web

Follow these 5 tips when picking a restaurant, and you’ll have a much better chance of eating well.

Fit in by knowing what 11 etiquette mistakes not to make while eating in Italy.

Know why you shouldn’t look for spaghetti and meatballs on a menu. Ever.

Get familiar with Rome’s hop-on, hop-off food bus (now a bus + tram) to get to Rome’s best, most authentic neighborhoods for dining.

For specific recommendations, check out my “Food & Drink” section. And make sure to specifically check out:

Oh, and don’t forget to ask for a fiscal receipt. Every time. 

Shopping in Rome

Maurizio-Grossi-marbles-for-web-1
Join the movement to support Rome’s independent and artisanal stores. And see just one all-artisanal outfit I came up with after seeking out the best (artisans’) shops in Rome.

If you’re a fan of secondhand, don’t miss my list of vintage shops in Rome. (You even can check out some of my favorite vintage finds). Three favorite “new” vintage stores: Blue Goose, Leopardessa and King Size Vintage, all in Monti.

Find out what street in Monti to haunt for some of Rome’s most interesting (and all independent) shops. 

Need a souvenir or gift? Here’s my roundup of the best places to shop for gifts in Rome. And how about…

Day trips from Rome

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Rome has lots of lovely lakes nearby. Here are 3 of my favorite lakes near Rome.

Escape to an island for the weekend. Here’s how.

If you love the idea of Pompeii but not the traveling it takes to get there, Ostia Antica is an ancient city just a half hour from Rome. Herculaneum is a little closer than Pompeii, and a more manageable site.

Some people find it scary. But I freakin’ love Naples. This is why, and here’s my guide for New York Magazine on what to do and where to eat and stay there. For more of the city’s flavor, check out my essay on exploring Naples on foot for Mariner magazine.

Jonesing for a nearby island escape? Forget Capri. Head to Ischia or Procida instead.

Tivoli, home to the Villa d’Este and Villa Adriana, is a lovely option for a nice day.

I’m slightly obsessed with the region of Umbria. Here’s one favorite Umbrian town that’s really easy to get to from Rome. Here’s another.

This is my all-time favorite agriturismo (farm-stay) in all of Italy. (It’s on the border of Umbria and Tuscany).

If your heart is set on seeing the seaside from Rome, this is the most convenient beach to reach from the city. This beach town, though, might be the prettiest one around.

Common questions about Rome, answered

How can I protect myself from pickpocketing in Rome?

Why is there so much graffiti? 

How safe is Rome? 

What scams and crimes should I be aware of in Rome?

Should I use the public transportation? How does it work?

Can you really drink from Rome’s constantly-running water fountains?

How can you call home from Italy?

Why are there so many tobacco shops around?

 

Still have questions? Check out The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon, or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

 

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Rome

Five Reasons to Explore Rome at Night

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The "Night of Museums"—when museums and archaeological sites, across Italy, are open as late as 2am and free—takes place tomorrow, May 19.

But that's not the only reason to explore Rome at night. Here are five others.

St Peter's Vatican at night

St. Peter's Basilica is beautiful—and peaceful—once night falls (and the gates close).

Rome ghetto night

Nothing feels cozier than glimpsing through lit-up windows, into homes and trattorie, as you walk around the quiet Rome streets.

Tree at night in Rome

There's no Rome sight like an umbrella pine lit up by the full moon.

Roman forum at night

You can't enter the Forum at night, but you can walk to the lookout on the Capitoline hill to see the temples lit up.

Rome Ghetto night 2Think Rome's too crowded? Now's your chance to experience its winding streets by yourself.

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Accommodation, Rome, Tips & tricks

Five Frustrating Things Someone Coming to Rome Can Say

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Five mistakes not to make when planning Rome trip

Over the years, I’ve spoken to a lot of people who are planning their trips to Rome—and I’m speaking to even more of them now. My goal: to help people have the best, most rewarding trip possible to this fantastic city.

So that means that, when someone coming to Rome says one of the five following things to me, I can’t help but feel a little frustrated. Here’s what they are, why I cringe—and how to fix it.

1) I want to eat the best, most authentic food Rome has to offer. Then I want to be able to walk the five minutes back to my hotel at the Trevi Fountain.

Pasta alla gricia at a restaurant not in the Rome centerWhy it’s frustrating: The biggest misconception about Rome must be that you can eat anywhere and still eat well. False. Rome is like any other city that receives millions of visitors a year: It has a lot of mediocre, overpriced, inauthentic restaurants. That’s especially true in the heart of the centro storico, where tourists tend to hang out. Can you eat relatively well there? Sometimes, and only if you plan your meals. Is it the best food in Rome? Not usually.

What you can do: If eating Rome’s most authentic food is important to you, then get familiar with public transportation. As I’ve written before, the #3 bus is the perfect “hop-on, hop-off” bus for foodies. Otherwise, take a taxi: That €10 cab ride might sting, but if you choose your restaurant wisely, you’ll save at least €10 over if you ate in the center. (Here, for example). And you’ll eat better.

2) I’m in Rome for two days. How can I see everything?Five most frustrating things people coming to Rome say

Why it’s frustrating: You can’t.

What you can do: Accept that you won’t be able to see “everything” in Rome in two days, and focus on your interests instead. If you get the most enjoyment out of wandering Rome’s quiet, cobblestoned backstreets, do that. If seeing the Vatican and the Pope is really important to you, schedule it in.

Just remember that there’s no “right” way to see Rome. And even if your friends seem appalled, when you return home, that you spent two days in Rome and didn’t see the inside of the Colosseum, you can always smile and say “No, but I did stroll down a 2,300-year-old road between ancient monuments on a gorgeous day/get a dress handmade for me by a Rome designer/see some of the world’s most beautiful works by Raphael, Caravaggio and Bernini. That was my must-do, and I loved it.”

3) I’ve rented a car for the time I’m in Rome. What’s the parking and driving situation like?

Traffic in Rome, ItalyWhy it’s frustrating: Although a car can be helpful for getting to Italy’s smaller towns and countryside, if you’re not planning on leaving Rome, there’s no reason to rent a car. The historic center of the city, where most of the sights are, is small enough to traverse on foot, plus most cars aren’t even allowed to enter the area. Parking in the rest of the city is tough. And public transport, despite the stereotype, is pretty good, especially in the center.

What you can do: Don’t rent a car. Walk. Take buses. Take the metro. You’ll save yourself a big headache.

4) I booked a hotel way out of the center/near the airport to save money. What’s a good way to get into town each day?

The problem with staying far out of the Rome center
Why it’s frustrating: Hotels in central Rome are expensive. Absolutely. But when people go for the lower prices at hotels located way outside the center, they don’t always calculate in the cost of getting back and forth each day. The Rome Marriott Park Hotel, for example, is located 13 miles outside the center of Rome, and there’s no metro station right nearby. So to get into town, you’ll have to either pay €10 per person for the hotel’s round-trip shuttle (which only leaves at certain times a day), or about €15 for a cab one-way, which goes up at night and on Sundays.

What you can do: Look into your transport options into the heart of Rome before you book your hotel. Where there isn’t public transport, calculate the cost of a taxi or shuttle in advance to make sure the savings are actually worth it. Otherwise, remember that budget accommodation does exist in Rome.

5) We’re just going to play everything by ear.

Why it’s frustrating: Can you come to Rome, not have anything planned in advance, and still see a lot of the city? Sure. But will you wind up spending an inordinate amount of time in lines/money on mediocre meals out? More than likely.

Line at the ColosseumCase in point: You know you want to see the Colosseum, but you haven’t planned how you’ll do so. You go to the Colosseum in the morning; the line is already two hours long (above). You get approached by an English speaker who tells you that you can skip the line by going on a tour—so you do. But the tour guide is terrible and barely speaks English, and you spend 30 minutes waiting for the whole group to get collected to enter anyway, and you feel rushed through the site. (By the way, this isn’t a rare worst-case scenario. It’s something that happens often).

Had you just looked into things in advance, you could have a) found out where you could get your ticket without having to stand in line or b) researched tour companies and found a Colosseum tour that best suited your interests and with a company renowned for having excellent guides.

What you can do: You don’t have to research everything. But for the sites that have big lines—the Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican museums—have a game plan. If you want to eat good food, and don’t want to spend an inordinate amount of money, look up some restaurant recommendations in advance. And if you want to go to the Galleria Borghese or Palazzo Valentini, remember that you must reserve ahead of time.

Also: what weather to expect, where to eat in Rome’s most touristy areas and what to know about crime in Rome.

If you liked this post, you’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

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Food & drink, Rome

Osteria Fernanda, the Best Restaurant in Trastevere

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Osteria Fernanda restaurant in Rome

If you saw a dish like this one (the colors! the presentation!) while dining in Rome, you might assume it comes from one of Rome's Best Restaurants—you know, the places where "Best Restaurant" comes in caps, like La Pergola or Il Pagliaccio. At the very least, you might assume a meal at said restaurant would set you back a pretty penny. 

You'd be even more convinced of this after taking a bite. Super-fresh, perfectly roasted octopus on a black bean sauce, adorned with a slice of celery gelatin (yes, really). And that's just the antipasto.

But despite the creative dishes and the high-quality ingredients, this is no La Pergola. It's Osteria Fernanda, a restaurant in Trastevere. Perhaps the best restaurant in Trastevere. And the price is a fraction of what you'd spend at Fernanda's Michelin-starred neighbors.

Da Fernanda in Trastevere, Rome

Located near Porta Portese (would you look at that… you can get there on the #3 bus!), Osteria Fernanda is a small but elegant space, contemporary with just the right "old Rome" touches (brick archways, wooden floors). If you can, reserve a table upstairs (shown above)—the tables downstairs are a little close together.

From the start, the service was impeccable. I was there with a visiting Scottish friend and her mother, and speaking with them in English; we were the only English-speakers in the place. But we were treated with the same courtesy and respect as the tables of Italians around us. (After more experiences than I can count, especially in Rome's centro storico, where the polar opposite is true, it's admittedly sad that this is worth mentioning). The owner, who took our orders, was polite, helpful, and, yes, spoke English. 

But the food is where things really got going. First came a delicious amuse–bouche, one of those little complimentary "extras" that are rare at any but the most expensive Rome restaurants. The antipasti were perfect: the octopus (above) was delicious, although the second antipasto we ordered, an "escalope of foie gras, Szechuan pepper gelato, lemon puree and crushed nuts," blew my mind (below). Hot and cold, melt-in-your-mouth soft and crunchy, meaty and citrusy—everything was there. And it all worked. 

Osteria Fernanda, Rome restaurant in Trastevere

After setting such a high bar, the primi could have been letdowns. They weren't. Although out of the three dishes were ordered—mine, acqua e farine pasta filled with Roman artichokes on cuttlefish-ink and bottarga, was creative but good—the most traditional was actually, in my opinion, the best. Yep: bucatini all'amatriciana. 

It just might be the best amatriciana I've had in Rome. Ever.  

The best amatriciana in Rome

Too full for the delicious-looking secondi (next time, I'm going for the beef cheek with artichoke gelatin, Jerusalem artichoke sauce and licorice), we went right for the desserts. Big surprise: They were fantastic, too. And the presentation was lovely.

Dessert at Osteria Fernanda in Rome

Even though the prices were listed on the menu (our octopus starter was €15, the amatriciana was €14), the bill could have been almost anything. Would they charge us for the amuse–bouche? Assume we were all tourists and take advantage by adding a 15% servizio or an exaggerated pane e coperto charge? And how much were the bottles of wine that the owner had recommended, and that we hadn't double-checked the price on?

For two antipasti, three secondi, two dolci, two bottles of wine, bread, and water, the price came out to about €110. Or a little under €40 a head. The wines had been under €15, and, yes, the amuse–bouches were complimentary. Cheap? No. Incredible value? Yes. (There also are two tasting menus, one 4-course taster for €33 each and one 5-course taster for €38).

I will be back.

And Osteria Fernanda? I'm sure foodie fame is coming your way. And more tourists, too. Just please, please, don't change. Okay?

Osteria Fernanda. Via Ettore Rolli 1. +39 065894333.

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About Me

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Author of Revealed Rome, Amanda Ruggeri
A freelance journalist and travel writer, I recently returned to the US after more than four years of living in Rome, Italy. Currently the BBC’s travel editor at large, I freelance for the New York Times, Guardian, Atlantic, AFAR, National Geographic Traveller, Budget Travel, Mother Jones, World Policy Journal, Lexus, and Mariner, among other publications. You can read some of my recent work under “Articles.” I also have contributed to five Fodor’s guidebooks on Italy, Rome and Europe.

My photographs, some of which you can see at my site Exposed Italy, have been published in a variety of publications, including the Guardian and the BBC’s Olive magazine. My film work includes serving as a storyteller for a documentary on Caligula for the History Channel and hosting a travel film on Rome for MSN U.K.

Before moving to Rome, I studied history at Yale and completed a M.Phil in international relations at Cambridge. I went on to become a political reporter in Washington, D.C. for U.S. News & World Report.

You can find out more about me, including my full résumé, at www.amandaruggeri.com, and see what trips and new projects I’ve been up to by following me on my Facebook page.

If you’re looking for help planning your trip to Italy, I offer one-on-one travel consulting sessions.

As an aside: Please note that all text and photographs on this blog are copyrighted by me, unless explicitly noted otherwise. Please do not reproduce or use them without my permission. You can email me at revealedrome@gmail.com.

(Credit for above photograph: Marco Minna).

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Expat extras, Rome, Shopping

In Monti, Leopardessa Goes Vintage

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Vintage shoes in Leopardessa in Rome

Leopardessa, a fashion label created by longtime Rome expat Jessica Harris, already had a hole-in-the-wall location on Monti's Via Panisperna. But two months ago, it was turned into something else: a workshop for Harris' designs and a vintage store.

I happened upon the "new" Leopardessa a couple of days ago. As soon as I walked in, I felt like I'd entered a very cool grandma's closet. The classic chic (a white Izod tennis skirt, a silk red military blazer) hung next to the fun (a sunflower-yellow sleeveless onesie) and frankly outrageous (hello, gold lamé bustier!).

Leopardessa vintage store in Rome

Leopardessa vintage in Monti
But from the bold pieces to the classic, the ladies have curated their "closet" with a designer's eye for detail.

Vintage clothes in Rome

Leopardessa necklace in vintage store in Monti

Vintage bustier in shop in Monti

Mariaelena Zannini, Jessica's partner-in-crime, took me to the back room to show me what else the ladies were up to. And, yes: Jessica is still designing. And the designs look great.

Jessica Harris original designs at Leopardessa
Leopardessa is located at Via Panisperna 226 in Monti.

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Accommodation, Rome

Rome’s Best Budget Accommodation: Five Places to Stay for Under €80 a Night

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Hotel de Monti, a great budget hotel in Rome

One of your biggest expenses in Rome will be accommodation. But you don't have to spend €200 per night on a place where you'll spend most of your time, well, unconscious.

As my first "Five for Friday," here are five of my favorite hotels and B&Bs here in Rome, all costing less than €80 a night. (Prices listed are for low season; in peak season, they are, of course, usually higher).

Hotel de Monti 

Street of Hotel de Monti

Why it's great: The new, clean rooms are big for Rome (see photo, top of post). The location, in atmospheric Monti, is one of my favorites; it's a short walk to the Forum or Colosseum, but just off-the-beaten-path enough to feel like a hidden gem (the hotel is on the street pictured above). There's free Wi-Fi. And Alessandro, the multilingual owner, is a local who gives great advice about where to go and what to see.

Why it's budget: It's on the third floor of a well-worn, 16th-century building, without an elevator. Rooms are fairly spartan. 

Rooms: From €50 a night. Update, Nov. 2012: Since this blog post was written, prices have changed: From February 2013 onward, prices begin at €144 a night. Via Panisperna 95. +39 064814763. www.hoteldemonti.com

The Beehive

Beehive budget accommodation in Rome
Why it's great: The Beehive's rooms, including hostel and hotel rooms, are cute and colorful. There's free Wi-Fi, linens, and handmade soaps. The Beehive is also eco-conscious, offering an organic, locally-sourced breakfast (for a small extra fee) and all-natural cleaning products. And there's a lovely garden where you can hang out and enjoy the sun.

Why it's budget: Although the location, a stone's throw from Termini, seems convenient, it's not actually the area that most travelers choose to frequent when they're in Rome, and some parts of the neighborhood can feel a bit gritty.  

Rooms: From €90 a night (for a private room with private bath), €70 a night (for a private room with a shared bath, shown above), or €20 a night (for a bed in a shared, mixed-gender dorm room). Via Marghera 8. +39 0644704553. www.the-beehive.com

Maison Giulia

Maison Giulia, a budget boutique hotel in Rome

Why it's great: Location, location, location! The Maison Giulia is located in a lovely 17th-century palazzo on Via Giulia—a street that just might be the most beautiful in Rome. It's a stone's throw from Campo dei Fiori and Trastevere, and a short walk from Piazza Navona. Rooms are classic "old Rome," with original wood-beamed ceilings. There's free Wi-Fi.

Why it's budget: The rooms are on the small side, and can seem dark. Some online reviews mention that the beds are a little firm.

Rooms: From €79 a night. Via Giulia 189/a. +39 0668808325. www.maisongiulia.it

RetRome Colosseum Garden B&B

Budget hotel room in Rome at RetRome
Why it's great: Located a stone's throw from the Colosseum in the tranquil, residential Celio neighborhood, the B&B has four cute vintage-inspired rooms. Each has the modern amenities, including an LCD TV, Wi-Fi, and air conditioning. If the B&B is already booked, RetRome has another B&B on Via Veneto as well as several apartments, all in a similar price range. 

Why it's budget: The building it's in, although the area is very safe, doesn't look so hot from the outside. In reviews, the B&B has been dinged for poor communication over reservations, for thin windows that let in street noise, and for the Wi-Fi not working.

Rooms: From €80 a night. +39 695557334. Via Marco Aurelio 47. www.retrome.net

Althea Inn

Althea Inn terrace in Rome

Why it's great: Each room has a private terrace, perfect for enjoying breakfast or an evening glass of wine (above). The rooms are clean, new, and pretty, with pops of purple (below). There's a lot of closet space, a flat-screen T.V. with BBC, and free Wi-Fi. The location is tranquil—perfect for those who don't want to risk the noise of the center—and in Testaccio, an authentic, non-touristy neighborhood that happens to be one of the best districts for dining out.

Why it's budget: Although Testaccio has some great offerings and is just two metro stops from the Colosseum, it's not the center, so you won't walk outside and immediately see, say, Piazza Navona. The street the B&B is on, while safe, isn't particularly pretty.

Rooms: From €70 a night. +39 0698932666. Via dei Conciatori 9. www.altheainn.com

Great budget B&B in Rome
 The photos in this post were provided by the properties.

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Code of Ethics

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There’s a lot of ambiguity in the travel blogging world over ethics.

The debate isn’t something I’m going to delve into… at least right now. But because people look to Revealed Rome for honest advice about what to do, where to stay, and where to eat in Rome, I wanted to make sure that my readers know what my personal code of ethics is regarding commissions, paid links, and so on.

In short: I don’t take any commissions from any of the places I write about. I’m a passionate person, so if I’ve looked at a hotel in Rome and loved it, you can probably tell when I write about it. But that shouldn’t make you wonder, “She seems so enthusiastic about this place, she must be getting some kind of kickback for writing about it!”I’m not.

The same goes for my writing about restaurants, shops, and, well, everything else.

I also don’t do paid guest posts. Nor do I do paid links. So if you click on a link I’ve inserted into a post, rest assured that I used it because I think it brings you to a helpful, trustworthy website—not because I’m paid for it.

Finally, if there’s a professional relationship with a place I’m writing about, I always will disclose it. The fact that I once freelanced for a tour company, for example, shouldn’t preclude me from being able to mention the company when it’s relevant. But it does mean that, if I mention them, I will always disclose that I also blog for them.

And yes: All of these rules also apply to my travel-consulting sessions. If I recommend a place during consulting, it’s not because I’m getting paid to do so. It’s because I like the place that much.

So how do I make money? Good question. There are three ways: My Italy travel consulting sessions. The Google ads you see on the side of the page (the content of which I don’t control). My Amazon affiliation. And, occasionally, other ads. (Hoping to advertise with Revealed Rome? Contact me for more information!).

As you can imagine, though, these “revenue streams” aren’t exactly enough to live on. So if you’re a fan of the site, and want to help me be able to feed myself while continuing to keep it up, consider scooping something up from the (new!) Revealed Rome store, booking a consulting session with me… or, hey, I’ll take donations, too ;).

Got any questions? Comments? Let me know here or email me at revealedrome@gmail.com. I’d love to hear what you have to say!

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Expat extras, Rome, Shopping

Art Gallery + Clothing Boutique + Jewelry Store = Monti’s Hip “Le Talpe”

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Le Talpe in Rome
Walking into Le Talpe for the first time, I wasn’t immediately sure what the place was. An art gallery? (Paintings hung on the walls). A jewelry store? (Bracelets, earrings and necklaces in different media, including bronze, lace, and silicon, were arranged here and there). A clothing shop? (Racks of trendy clothing lined the store’s side). 

The answer, of course, is that Le Talpe is all three. And then some—Le Talpe also hosts events, including readings and aperitivi. 

Le Talpe opened about a year ago on Via Panisperna in Monti, and it’s yet another example of just how hip and contemporary Rome can be. Every month, Giovanna Dughera, one of the two owners, told me, they completely switch out everything in the store, showcasing different designers, jewelers, and artists. And because it’s always a mix of artists—all of whom make creative, beautifully-crafted goods—no matter the month, the store itself is fantastic to explore.

Just check out the variety of colors and designs you can find in there right now:

Necklace at Le Talpe store in Rome

 

Jewelry in Le Talpe Rome

 

Jewelry at art gallery and shop in Monti

 

Bracelet at Le Talpi in Rome

 

Clothes at Le Talpe in Rome

Currently, artists whose work is on display (and for sale) include Francesca Caltabiano, Alessandra Fiordaliso, and Simone Bath. But if you want to get your hands on one of their headbands or jackets or purses or paintings, go now, because in a month, everything will look different.

Extra tip: If the items in the front room are a little out of your price range, head to the back room on the left, where Giovanna has items left over from the last “exhibit”—at discounts of up to 50 percent off.

Le Talpe is located at Via Panisperna 222/a. Phone: +39 064871249.

I’ve written this post as part of my initiative to support Rome’s independent stores and artisans, rather than multinational chains. Like this? You might also like my post on Via del Boschetto, an artisan-filled shopping street in Rome, or on Armando Rioda’s handmade leather goods. More to come!

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Accommodation, Rome, Tips & tricks

Rome… For People Who Don’t Like Cities

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Rome is definitely a city!
Not everyone's a city person. 

But lots of people want to come to Italy. And when they do, even those people who get hives from traffic and crowds, who break into a sweat taking public transportation or trying to cross a busy street, feel like they have to come to Rome. And I'll be honest: This city is so fantastic, that it's worth getting out of your comfort zone to see.

That said? You can experience Rome in a more tranquil, relaxed way—and there are parts of Rome worth seeing that don't even feel like a city at all.

Here, my top tips for how to fall in love with Rome… even if you don't like cities or crowds.

Come in the off-season

Spanish Steps in May, high season
Yes, Rome is, obviously, a city year-round. But in the high season—which runs from Easter to October, with the peak in June and July—it's particularly intense. Thousands of tourists flood the streets. The Sistine Chapel is shoulder-to-shoulder, while you practically have to steamroll people if you want to get close enough to the Trevi Fountain to toss in a coin. So if you're not a fan of crowds, take it from me: Come between late October and early March. The weather will be chillier (and probably rainier), but the major sites will be much, much quieter. (Above: The Spanish Steps in May, or the start of high season. Just imagine what they look like in July!).

Stay in a hotel that really feels like an escape

Donna Camilla Savelli hotel courtyard

In general, I strongly recommend that most people stay in Rome's centro storico. That's where you'll spend most of your time sightseeing, and even if hotels outside of the center seem more economic at first glance, the prices of taxis to and from them, or the time lost on public transport, will quickly nullify any savings.

But if you're not fond of cities or crowds, staying right in the heart of the center—in the Spanish Steps area, say, or Piazza Navona—can feel overwhelming. As soon as you step out the door, you'll be thrown onto a street busy with pedestrians and, in some cases, cars. So I recommend one of two things. 

First, stay in a hotel in the center… that's small, boutique, and feels like an escape from the city. Don't book one of Rome's many big or chain hotels, where you'll be surrounded by people from breakfast on. Instead, look for hotels like Babuino 181, which, while a stone's throw from the Spanish Steps, is discreet, private, and has a (just-opened) rooftop terrace where you can get a drink, relax in the sun, or read a paper in solitude.

Or, as your second option, stay in a hotel off the beaten path. Like at the sleek Fortyseven Hotel, tucked into the lovely, ruins-sprinkled Forum Boarium area; it's a 5-minute walk from Piazza Venezia, but since it's in the opposite direction from where everyone else goes, it feels like a hidden gem. Or at Hotel Donna Camilla Savelli, a 17th-century convent, built by famed architect Borromini, that's tucked into the Janiculum hill, just a 5-minute walk from Trastevere (at top, the hotel's courtyard). Or, for a budget option, the RetRome Colosseum Garden B&B, which, while a stone's throw from the Colosseum, is on a tranquil, residential street that few tourists wander up. Don't go too far—having to deal with too much public transport will just replace all of the stress you're trying to get away from—but remember that you don't have to. Just a short walk from the main sites in Rome can get you off the beaten path.

Enjoy Rome's great outdoors 

Villa Pamphili, a lovely park in Rome

While you might not realize it at first glance, Rome has a lot of green space. So if the sound of sirens makes you wince, make a plan for how you'll get back to nature. I've written about three of Rome's prettiest parks, including Villa Borghese (Rome's "Central Park"), Monte Mario, and Villa Pamphili, before. Others to check out include the wild-feeling and forested Villa Ada; next to the Colosseum, there's the small but lovely Villa Celimontana.

And I can't say enough how much a stroll down the Appian Way will make you feel like you've traveled back in time—and to a Rome of greenery and parks and bikes and ruins and rambling villas. City? What city?

Chill out in churches

Basilica of Santa Cecilia, Trastevere

No, not St. Peter's Basilica. Many of Rome's (other) churches are hidden gems, and you just might be the only person there.

Don't deal with lines

Bocca della Verita line

This is advice I'd give anyone, but if you're crowd-averse, pay particular attention. Don't go to the Vatican museums in the morning, avoid them on a Saturday or Monday, and never, ever go on the "free day" (the last Sunday of the month). Visit St. Peter's Basilica in the evening, rather than during the day.

And when going to the Colosseum, don't get in the always-absurd line stretching out front; get your combined Colosseum, Forum and Palatine ticket from the desks at the Forum or Palatine entrances. (Before 2pm, especially in the summer, these, too, can sometimes be long. Go in the afternoon, and remember that you can use your ticket—one entrance per site only—for 24 full hours, so if you only have time to visit the Forum before it closes, you can go back the next day for the Colosseum and Palatine. No waiting in line necessary). (Above, by the way, is the line for the Bocca della Verita, or "Mouth of Truth." Frankly, there's no way to skip this line… but this is also never necessary to wait in, unless you just can't leave Rome without that photo op).

Give yourself time to relax and people-watch

People-watching in the Jewish Ghetto

I find a city most feels like a city—in the stressful, chaotic, high-pressure sense of the word—when I'm rushing around and trying to do a million things at once.

So, when in Rome… don't. Build extra time into your schedule. Plan to sit at a cafe (although be very careful which cafe you choose, and steer clear of those on main piazzas or at tourist sites). Or do like the Romans do and relax over a nice, long lunch. In the evening, enjoy a stroll through the cobblestoned streets, gelato in hand.

And even if you're not a city person, you will fall in love with Rome. 

You might also like:

How Safe is Rome, Really?

The Best Gelato, and Best-Kept Secret, in Rome

Should I Use Public Transport? And Other Bus- and Metro-Related Questions

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