My Favorite Agriturismo in Italy: An Ode, in Photos

The best Umbria agriturismo, Fontanaro

When I need a break from Rome’s hustle and bustle, I head to the countryside. And when I’m there, I always stay at an agriturismo, or “farm-stay”—or Italy’s best-kept accommodation secret.

Over the course of my travels in Italy, I’ve probably stayed in more than 50 different agriturismi. Not once have I been disappointed. Each one has had its own character, but they’ve all been comfortable, in beautiful settings, and a better value than any hotel. And no, you don’t have to milk a cow or collect eggs to stay at one.

When I’m asked about my favorite agriturismo in Italy, though, there’s always one that comes to mind: Fontanaro.

Fontanaro and its sister property, Tartagli, are located on the border of Umbria and Tuscany, a 2-hour drive from Rome (or a 1.5-hour drive from Florence). They’re a stone’s throw away from the tiny, medieval village of Paciano.

Village of Paciano near Fontanaro

Made up of rolling hills and vineyards, the Fontanaro properties produce a huge variety of Tuscan-Umbrian staples, from olive oil to honey. Better yet, everything is grown organically. And the estate, run by mother-daughter team Lucia and Alina Pinelli, uses sustainable energy whenever possible; the farm was one of the first in Umbria, in fact, to use solar panels.

Fontanaro agriturismo on border of Umbria and Tuscany

Tuscan agriturismo in Italy

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Rome’s English-Speaking—and American-Style—Hair Salon

English speaking hair salon in Rome
Post-cut with my favorite (English-speaking!) hair stylist in Rome, Rick

Looking for a hair salon in Rome… where the stylists speak English, the cuts are great, and the prices are moderate? Easy: Head to Noi, conveniently (and oh-so-classily) located right at Piazza del Popolo.

I discovered Noi when I first moved to Rome. My Italian was nonexistent progressing. Needless to say, I lacked crucial hair-salon vocabulary like “No, I don’t think a mohawk would suit my bone structure” and “Please put down that peroxide bleach—I said I just wanted a trim!”. Anxious that I’d wind up with a shaved head or worse, I broke my rule of doing-Rome-like-the-Italians-do… and sought out the city’s most popular English-speaking salon.

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The Newest Vintage Shop to Hit Rome: Blue Goose

Blue Goose, a new vintage shop in Rome

I love vintage shopping in Rome—but hate those vintage stores that smell like Grandma’s attic. Enter Blue Goose. This little vintage boutique, which opened at the end of last year in Monti (on Via del Boschetto, of course!), is fabulous, well-priced, and anything but musty.

While tiny, the store has a beautifully-edited collection of vintage women’s clothing, bags, shoes, and jewelry. And most of the items are designer labels. Looking for that classic Louis Vuitton purse? Maybe a Versace jacket? This is the place to come.

(Note: This information was updated in April 2017).

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Introducing: The Revealed Rome Newsletter

Revealed Rome newsletter
Want to stay up-to-date with travel tips, tricks, news, and more from Rome, Italy, and (sometimes) beyond? Subscribe to the Revealed Rome newsletter! 

I try to share fairly often on Facebook and Twitter—but not everyone is on those platforms, and, besides, they're not always that convenient. (Plus, if I post at 2pm Italy time, those of you in, say, California aren't even up yet… and don't see the updates at all!).

So I've launched this newsletter as a handy way for you to get all of the Revealed Rome news in one place. It won't flood your inbox (I'm planning on sending about two newsletters a month), but it will keep you in the loop when it comes to everything you love best about Italy and travel—food, art, history, shopping, you name it.

So go on.
Make my day!

I'll be sending out the first newsletter on Friday, March 15.

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Titian Comes to Rome’s Quirinale, And It’s a Show You Won’t Want to Miss

Titian exhibit at the Scuderie del Quirinale
Titian’s charming Danae, just one of dozens of masterpieces on display now at the Quirinale

The much-anticipated exhibit Tiziano (Titian) opened this week at Rome’s Scuderie del Quirinale. I have one word: Go! 

 So many retrospectives can’t get their hands on a painter’s best masterpieces, but not this one. There are no fewer than 39 works by Titian—you know, the most famous artist to ever come out of Venice, and the most important Italian artist of the 16th century. And they range from the incredible Martyrdom of St. Lawrence (which has an estimated value of 50 million euro, by the way) to the iconic La Bella to the charming Danae. 

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A Few of My Favorite Places in Rione Monti, for National Geographic Traveler

Monti article for Nat Geo Traveler
It’s no secret that I adore Monti, the ancient rione a stone’s throw from Rome’s Colosseum and forum. Want to find out why? Pick up the April issue of National Geographic Traveler (that’s the U.S. version of the magazine), where I’ve written about some of the area’s hidden gems and hottest spots—from an ancient basilica to an artisanal gelateria. Here’s a sneak peek, but when the article goes live online, I’ll share it here, so check back. (Update, March 17: You can now read the story about Monti online!).

And stay tuned for news of an article on another fantastic Rome neighborhood, for another great travel magazine, coming soon. (What can I say, I hate to play favorites).

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Exploring Rome by Scooter: My Latest Story and… Photo Shoot?

Article on Rome scooters for AUH

Ever wondered what it would be like to explore Rome by scooter? I wrote all about it for the premiere issue of AUH magazine, interviewing Rome locals, Vespa collectors, and just about everyone else as addicted to their motorini as any Roman should be. (If you've never heard of the magazine before, maybe you just haven't been traveling in the Middle East enough: It's the brand-new magazine for Abu Dhabi airport. And yes, I win points for publication randomness). 

The folks over there also, of all things, asked me to participate in the photo shoot for the article. (They hastened to tell me that it was meant to be journalistic, so they didn't need "real" models. As a non-model, I'm proud to say I definitely fit the bill!).

So, as a writer, here was the unusual part: I got to not only write the story… but spend a morning whipping around Rome on a scooter. And not just any scooter. This was a 1953 white, vintage Vespa, complete with a sidesaddle seat in the back (love!). Talk about having an Audrey Hepburn moment.

And, yes. I wound up in a few of the story's photos (being the only girl in the group will make that happen). Check out the story, and the embarrassing (but beautifully-done—photographer Jamie Baker was excellent) photographs, here.

AUH magazine story on scooters in Rome

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Pope Benedict XVI Resigning February 28

Pope Benedict XVI resigning
Pope Benedict XVI in healthier days: on the Day of the Immaculate Conception in 2010

Big news from Rome: The Vatican announced this morning that Pope Benedict XVI is resigning at the end of the month.

The last time a Pope resigned, it was in 1415—and the purpose was to end the Western Schism. (Three men were all claiming to be the Pope simultaneously. Things got confusing). This time, the 85-year-old Pope’s reason for his departure seems a little more personal. It’s most likely because of his health, which seems to have been deteriorating in recent months. You can read the Pope’s declaration of his resignation here.

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Chatting About Underground Rome on the How to Tour Italy Radio Show

Colosseum-underground-web
The Colosseum underground, one sight we talk about on the How to Tour Italy radio show

I was back on the How to Tour Italy radio show with Anthony Capozzoli today, talking about one of my favorite subjects, Rome’s underground sites.

Got a half-an hour? That’s enough time to get the low-down on my top four underground sights, including the Basilica of San Clemente, Catacombs of Santa Priscilla, Palazzo Valentini, and hypogeum of the Colosseum. Enjoy!

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The Most Romantic Places in Rome

The most romantic places in Rome

Looking for romance in Rome—whether you’re traveling here for Valentine’s Day, a honeymoon, or maybe even (!) to propose? You’re in luck.

No, I can’t promise you’ll meet the dark-eyed love of your life here. But if you’re already traveling with your sweetheart, you’re golden: Rome has to be one of the most romantic cities around.

Of course, lots of people tend to think that the most romantic spots are also the most famous (the Trevi Fountain, say, or the Spanish Steps). Call me jaded, but I think the 24/7 crowds and pushy rose-sellers kind of suck the romance out of them.

The most romantic places to propose or honeymoon in Rome

Want to find a spot that’s a little more tranquil… where you can actually grab a moment to yourself? Here are a few of my favorite, off-the-beaten-path romantic places in Rome. 

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