Revealed Rome: Tips, tricks and things not to miss for travel to Rome and Italy.

Where to Eat in Rome’s Most Touristy Areas

September 5, 2011 12 Comments

The best restaurants right at Rome’s tourist sites, including near the Pantheon, Spanish Steps, and Colosseum.

I’ve said it before: When you’re looking for good restaurants in Rome, get thee away from the city’s tourist centers. The farther from the Colosseum, Pantheon, or Spanish Steps you are, the better and cheaper — in general — the food is going to be.

That said? Sometimes, after a day of sightseeing, your feet are just too tired, or your stomach too darn loud, to walk the extra 20 minutes, or wait for the bus, that’s required to wind up in a less hit-or-miss food zone like Testaccio. But that doesn’t mean all is lost.

Here, suggestions for where to eat in Rome’s most touristy locales. Even if they won’t all blow your mind (although some will), they’re reliably good food, good value, and within a 5-minute walk from the given site. (Just to make sure, I used the ever-objective Google maps to see how long “walking directions” took).

To help you visualize how close these really are to Rome’s major sites, here’s a helpful map of them all. Print it all out to save your feet, and your stomach, when you’re in Rome.

This post covers where to eat when you’re at the Spanish Steps, Colosseum, or the Pantheon. (Above: An awesome mozzarella-di-bufala-egg-combination thing from Palatium, a top spot near the Spanish Steps).

Look for an upcoming post on where to eat when at the Vatican, Trevi Fountain, or Piazza Navona!

Where to eat at… the Colosseum

Taverna dei Quaranta. Via Claudia 24, a 3-minute walk from the Colosseum. I didn’t quite believe it when a friend of mine said that this place was any good. But then I went. And it is. Despite being located just 2 minutes’ further down the road than all of the terrible, touristy places that directly overlook the Colosseum, Taverna dei Quaranta is a different story. The cacio e pepe here is fantastic, the spaghetti alle vongole tasted super-fresh, and a pasta alla norma (with eggplants, tomato and salted ricotta) decided my next return for me. The restaurant also offers traditional Roman secondi (oxtail, fried baccalà), a pizza menu, and, my friend says, a kick-ass tiramisu. At about €8 for a pasta, the prices are also good for the area. +3906 7000550, www.tavernadeiquaranta.com/en. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Trattoria Luzzi. Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 88, a 5-minute walk from the Colosseum (and a 1-minute walk from the Basilica of San Clemente). As I’ve written before, Luzzi isn’t the best food you’ll eat in Rome — but it is some of the cheapest and, thanks to its nutty waiters, the most fun. Its amatriciana or fettucine alla bolognese are reliably okay… and both set you back just €5.50. The pizza (above) is also very good, although don’t order it at lunch: The official pizza chef isn’t on then, so what comes out instead is a sad excuse for a Roman pie. Another bonus? Unlike many of the places in this quarter, the guys at Luzzi don’t try to screw you. That said, I’ve noticed more complaints about rudae service at Trattoria Luzzi, and had one bad experience so far myself — but it seems always to be from people sitting indoors, and at dinner only. For the best experience, grab an outside seat. +39 06 7096332‎. Open for lunch and dinner every day except for Wednesday.

Li Rioni. Via dei SS. Quattro Coronati 24, a 5-minute walk from the Colosseum (and a 2-minute walk from the Basilica of San Clemente). One of Rome’s better pizzerias, this is also a local favorite, a place that’s filled (and loud) with Italian families and babies by 9pm. (Come at 7pm, of course, and you’ll see mostly tourists). The pizzas are how Romans do them — crispy, thin and piled with fresh ingredients — and cheap, to boot.The service can be a little spotty, especially on busy Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, but it’s all part of the fun. The name “Li Rioni,” by the way, comes from the fact that the pizzeria is right on the border of two of Rome’s famed rioni, or quarters — Monti and Celio. +39 06 70450605. Open for dinner only every day but Tuesday.

Where to eat at… the Spanish Steps

The Via della Croce pastificio (lunch only). Via della Croce 8, a 1-minute walk from the Spanish Steps. Time your sightseeing to land you in the Spanish Steps area between 1pm and 2pm, and lunch is all set. That’s because that’s when a pasta shop, located a stone’s throw from the famous staircase, starts offering “samples” — i.e., big trays — of hot, handmade pasta. The price, with water and wine included? Just 4 euros. Check out my previous blog post on the Spanish Steps pasta shop for more info. Open for lunch every weekday.

Palatium. Via Frattina 94, a 5-minute walk from the Spanish Steps. I’ve sung the praises of Palatium elsewhere before, and with good reason. A foodie favorite, Palatium is run by the Lazio Regional Food Authority—which, while it might not sound sexy, means that all of the ingredients are home-grown in Rome’s Lazio region. The menu, which changes frequently, features Rome favorites with a twist, like ricotta-and-mint ravioli. The prices are great for the quality, with pastas around €10 and mains €15. Just keep in mind that this isn’t your traditional, checkered-tablecloth trattoria (photo above). +39 06 69202132, reservations recommended. Open for lunch and dinner every day but Sunday.

Enoteca Antica. Via della Croce 76, a 3-minute walk from the Spanish Steps. This isn’t the best value you’ll find in Rome, but it is one of your best bets if you don’t want to stray from the Spanish Steps (if you can’t get in at Palatium, that is). A wine bar and restaurant, the atmosphere is lovely, there’s outdoor seating, the food ranges from fine to good, and the prices aren’t terrible. Just make sure you double-check your bill: Several recent clients have noted that staff has been sneaking in higher prices than the menu calls for. Never hesitate to point out any mistakes you see, and to be firm. +39 6 6790896. Open for lunch and dinner every day.

Where to eat at… the Pantheon

Armando al Pantheon. Salita de’ Crescenzi 31, less than a minute’s walk from the Pantheon. Since 1961, Armando’s has been serving up traditional, Roman dishes right next to the Pantheon — and he’s been making it in the guidebooks, too. The constant mentions of Armando’s make it all the more surprising that both the food, and prices, remain good. Look for pasta e ceci (pasta with chickpeas) on Fridays, and don’t miss the damn-good torta antica Roma (above) to finish everything off. +39 06 68803034. Open for lunch and dinner all week except for Saturday night and Sunday.

Trattoria da Gino. Vicolo Rosini 4, a 5-minutes’ walk from the Pantheon. Hidden on a side street north of the Pantheon, near the Parliament building, da Gino is authentic Roman cuisine at its best. The handmade pastas are excellent, as is the antipasto spread. Since it’s a tiny place and a favorite of locals, make reservations if you can. +39 06 687 3434. Open for lunch and dinner every day but Sunday.

Trattoria da Ugo e Maria. Via dei Prefetti 19, a 5-minute walk from the Pantheon. Don’t expect a big sign welcoming you to this no-frills, family-run restaurant: The only sign says “Trattoria,” and the curtains and door are often closed. Enter, though, and you’re walking into an authentic Roman experience. The hand-written menu changes daily, pastas are handmade and prices are moderate (about €8 for a pasta). +39 06

6873752. Open for lunch and dinner every day, except Saturdays and Sundays.
If you liked this post, you’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

Archaeological sites, Rome

Rome’s Coolest, Most Cutting-Edge Ancient Underground Site

August 31, 2011 4 Comments

The (many) archaeological sites in Rome are fantastic. For most, though, you need to use your imagination to picture what those crumbling ruins once looked like. And for those who aren’t ancient-history experts — or who aren’t particularly passionate about the whole ruins thing to begin with — that can be a little tough. Even for sites as amazing as the Colosseum and its underground.

Enter Palazzo Valentini.

Archaeological sites, Churches & holy sites, Outdoors, Rome, Tips & tricks

The Five Best Ways to Beat the Heat in Rome

August 21, 2011 No Comments

In case you haven’t heard, it is really, very, ridiculously warm in Rome right now; this week, temperatures are hitting 95°F. And even if you’re coming in the “fall,” don’t kid yourself: The heat traditionally continues into September.

Visiting the Eternal City during the hottest months? Here, five top tips for beating the heat in Rome.

Head underground. It’s always much cooler in the subterranean world—sometimes so much cooler, you’ll wish you brought another layer. The best part? Since 60 percent of the ancient city of Rome remains buried underground, some of the best sites in the city are down there! Consider the catacombs, ancient underground cemeteries where thousands of Christians were buried; booking a (super-cheap) visit to the Columbarium of Pomponio Hylas; or the underground of the Basilica of San Clemente (bonus: the church itself is naturally cool, too), among many other sites.

Start going to church. Rome’s churches aren’t just religious sites: They’re treasure troves of art, history, and architecture. Thanks to their thick stone walls and shaded spaces, they’re also naturally air-conditioned (yay!). Find cooler temperatures and get away from the crowd by heading to the ancient Basilica of Santa Sabina (complete with 5th-century door); the Gothic gem of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, right near the Pantheon (above); or the Basilica of Santi Quattro Coronati, with its 13th-century frescoes. And that’s just for starters.

Sightsee at night. The hottest hours in Rome tend to be from about noon to 5pm — prime time for sightseeing. So instead of trudging around in the heat, check for any “extraordinary openings” of sites at night:

On the last Tuesday of the month, some of Rome’s best-known sites and museums are both open from 7pm-11pm and free, including the Borghese museum, Pantheon, and Palazzo Barberini.
On Friday nights from Sep. 2-Oct. 28, the Vatican museums are open from 7pm-11pm. (Most of the museum complex is not air-conditioned, and is very crowded during summer days, so believe me — seeing it at night is a cooler experience in more ways than one!).
On Saturday nights until Sep. 17, the otherwise-blazing Colosseum, and its underground, will be open at night.

Head to the hills. The famed “seven hils of Rome” are just a start. Rome has even more hills than that, and many boast leafy parks and lovely views of the city, making them the perfect escape spots for summer. Some of my favorites: the Janiculum hill, famed for its views; the Villa Borghese, Rome’s answer to Central Park; the Villa Celimontana, next to the Colosseum; and the nature reserve of Monte Mario (above).

Take a dip. The heat really getting to you? Take a break and go to the pool. Although outdoor pools are few and far between in Rome’s center, one of the most convenient is the swimming pool in the Celimontana, just a stone’s throw from the Colosseum. It’s not cheap, costing €16 on weekdays (€10 for kids under 10) and more on weekends.

My advice? Since Rome gets hottest in the early afternoon, do your sightseeing (maybe even of the forum, Palatine and Colosseum) in the morning, break for lunch, and then reward your family by heading to the pool at 2pm, when prices drop to €10 per adult and €6 per child. The pool stays open till 7:30pm, so you still have plenty of time to relax… and cool down. Here’s more info on the OS Pool at the Colosseum.

[Update, 7/3/2012: It’s now €20 on weekdays,€25 on weekends, without mention of a child’s discount. It’s also €15 for a half-day on weekdays and €20 for a half-day on weekends].

Want more tips about what to do in the Eternal City? Check out The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon, below, or through my site here!

Archaeological sites, Events, Rome

The Colosseum Opens at Night

August 21, 2011 No Comments

We’ll add it to the list of cool ways to see the Colosseum: The Colosseum is now open at night.

Every Saturday until September 17, the Colosseum will be open from 8:20pm to midnight. (Last entrance is at 10:45pm). It costs €18 to visit the Colosseum and the Colosseum’s “Nero” exhibition, or €23 to also visit the Colosseum underground, with a guide. To book, call +39 0639967700. For more information (in Italian), click here.

Art, Beyond Rome, Museums

Can’t Get to Rome Right Now? How About to L.A.?

August 18, 2011 1 Comment

Whether it’s the bad economy or the press of work, you might not be able to get to Rome or Pompeii right this second. But, if you’re lucky enough to be in California—or if you’re heading there anytime soon—then you can get the ancient Roman experience… in Malibu.

The Getty Villa, located on the border of Pacific Palisades and Malibu, is unlike any museum you’ve ever been to. First off, it’s not a museum. It’s an ancient Roman villa. Recreated.

Brainchild of oil tycoon (and art enthusiast) J. Paul Getty, the Getty Villa was designed to look like Herculaneum’s once-sumptuous, and world-famous, Villa of the Papyri. While Getty died before getting to see his dream completed, it’s hard to imagine that he wouldn’t be happy with how it all turned out. Re-opened in 2006 after a 10-year restoration, the Getty Villa boasts 64 acres of gardens, fountains, colonnades, buildings, even an ancient theater that sits up to 450 people. Every detail was done with the utmost attempt at historical accuracy, from the classical bronze statues in the gardens to the colored columns and frescoed walls.

As for its collection? Well, it’s pretty fantastic. The museum boasts 44,000 Greek, Roman, and Etruscan artifacts, including everything from paintings (rare to find even in Italy) to mummies, pottery to perfectly-preserved jewelry. Some of the finds rival anything I’ve seen in Europe, including at the Naples Archaeological Museum and the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Bracelet of gold, glass, emeralds, and sapphires, ancient Roman, 300-400 A.D.

Mummy portrait of a woman, Romano-Egyptian, 100-110 A.D.

Painted coffin, Romano-Egyptian, 300-400 A.D.

Statue of a youth as a lamp-bearer found in Pompeii, ancient Roman, 20-10 B.C.

Pure gold wreath, ancient Greek, 300-100 B.C.

Vessel of Medea killing her child, ancient Greek, 330 B.C.

And then there’s that pottery that, um, makes classical art look anything but boring. Here’s a fragment of a wine cup from about 500 B.C.:

Yes, that’s a man vomiting because he’s too drunk. And no, that’s not the earthiest piece of pottery in the collection (…no pun intended). But the others were simply too, ah, X-rated to post.

Many of the objects, meanwhile, are in rooms designed as ancient Roman rooms would have been, setting the art off even more.

Let me put it this way: Sure, I’m an ancient Roman art-and-history geek, but for me, this villa was cooler than Disneyland. In fact, it’s kind of like a Disneyland for those of us who really like anything that still looks good when it’s a couple of millennia old.

And therein lies a potential criticism. In some ways, the whole concept of a recreated Roman villa is a bit Disneyfied. And if the actual art and objects inside were as fake as Epcot Center’s Doge’s Palace, then that would be one thing. But they hold up to the hype—and then some.

Which is why I felt just fine about feeling so excited to walk through the “ancient” Roman gardens.

Oh, and did I mention… that the Getty Villa is free? Even with the $15 that’s charged for parking, if you’re in the area, that’s, um, slightly cheaper than a flight to Rome. So, Californians: Promise me you’ll go. Soon. (Just don’t forget to book your entrance in advance, which is mandatory).

The Getty Villa is located at 17985 Pacific Coast Highway in Pacific Palisades. Here’s more information on the Getty Villa’s hours and directions.

Beaches & seaside, Beyond Rome

From Rome to Puglia: Monopoli

August 17, 2011 3 Comments

Monopoli—my third and final destination on my quick trip from Rome to Puglia—just might have been my favorite.

Just a half an hour and €2.90 on the train from Bari, or 5 minutes and €1 from Polignano a Mare, where we were staying, Monopoli was a gem. Much bigger than Polignano, with 50,000 inhabitants, it had more of the feel of an "authentic" city. But still managed to be incredibly beautiful and relaxing. Especially if you did it like we did.

You easily can spend a couple of hours wandering through Monopoli's tangled centro storico. There's not a ton that you "have" to see here, although there is a 16th-century castle and an imposing Baroque cathedral. (We skipped the castle and ducked into the cathedral. Baroque is an understatement. Our favorite part, though, was seeing the priest walk a young couple—the girl dressed in a super-tight T-shirt, the guy in shorts—through what appeared to be a wedding ceremony. We thought we were witnessing an elopement until we realized that it was a practice run).

Just wandering the streets, though, is a pleasure. Make sure to take five minutes and stop at one of Monopoli's many cafes and bakeries for a little taste of Pugliese flavor; I was very, very happy with my choice of a fluffy, buttery pastry filled with cheese and meat. Puglia's answer to the Cornish pasty.

One of the real draws of Monopoli, though, is wandering outside of its fortified walls, past groups of families and old men and various and sundry other beach-goers, sunning themselves on rocks or the odd bit of sand.

The favorite place, of course, was the city beach. And the water looked extremely clear and clean—much more so than anything you'd see around Rome. Given the crowd, though, we opted to push on and see what else we found.

About 10 minutes into our wander, walking south down the coast, my father and I hit on a relatively quiet beach. We were all set to plop down our towels when we saw a restaurant perched above, its open-air terrace with a to-die-for view of the Adriatic. And then I recognized the name: Lido Bianco.

Without meaning to, we'd stumbled right upon the restaurant that food blogger Katie Parla had recommended to me. Now that's what I call serendipity… especially since it was getting close to lunchtime. Although the food would have been worth the effort. And the view.

Wandering around the historic center, relaxing on the beach, and eating a meal that was beautiful in every sense of the word: you can't get a better day in Puglia than that.

Beaches & seaside, Beyond Rome

From Rome to Puglia: Beach Town of Polignano a Mare

August 2, 2011 4 Comments

From Bari, it’s just a 20-minute train ride to Polignano a Mare (and a whopping €2.30). And so if Bari, despite its charms, sounds like it’s just too much of a cit y for you, there’s no reason not to switch trains and head on to Polignano right then.

With about 20,000 inhabitants, Polignano a Mare feels like a small resort town. Its lovely, whitewashed centro storico perches on cliffs, overlooking the sparkling Adriatic. The town beach (above) is beautiful, the water super-clear, the people friendly.

Of course, you won’t be the first person to “discover” Polignano. Crowds of tourists arrive in the summer, particularly August. But it’s still rare to hear much English spoken, prices remain relatively low, locals gather on the central piazza at night, and souvenir shops are vastly outnumbered by butcher’s and grocer’s stores. In other words: While a resort town, Polignano a Mare is a far, far cry from Sorrento, Capri, or Vernazza.

Did I mention it’s lovely?

Thankfully, since we were staying in Polignano a Mare for two nights, my father and I made one of our best accommodation choices, ever: the Casa Dorsi. In the heart of the centro storico, a stone’s throw from the water, this was an entire building… to ourselves. There were two floors, including a kitchen, two bathrooms, and three bedrooms. For €80 total. Breakfast included.

Oh, and there was a private rooftop terrace.

The one downside was the lack of Wi-Fi inside the thick-walled palazzo (the owner said that it works for some people, doesn’t for others). But we couldn’t complain too much.

We spent a full day exploring Polignano. Since the historic center is pretty small, and museums and other “must-see” cultural sites seemed nil, that meant a lot of time just relaxing. Including on the beach, a short walk down from the town itself.

In late June, the beach was definitely lively, but not jam-packed. In August, I’m betting it’s beach-blanket-to-beach-blanket.

Local kids, meanwhile, were jumping off the tower built on top of the cliff.

A relaxing resort town, without the ridiculous prices: Polignano a Mare’s one I’m adding to my list of places to go back to.

Also: should you visit Naples?, the most beautiful beach near Rome and what to know about Polignano a Mare’s neighbor Monopoli.

Heading to Rome? Check out The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon, below, or through my site here!

Beyond Rome

Quick Trip from Rome to Puglia: Bari

August 1, 2011 4 Comments

The "heel" of the boot of Italy, Puglia is one of the country's most beautiful regions. It's got it all: miles of gorgeous coastline (and beaches), fantastic food, friendly locals, lovely little towns with medieval historical centers. And, while Italians flood Puglia's beaches in August, during the rest of the year, even Puglia's most resort-like towns are relatively quiet. At least compared to, say, the Cinque Terre or Amalfi coast.

Soon, though, all that will change. Travelers beyond Italy are catching onto Puglia's charms, from, just this year, writers for Travel + Leisure to the "Frugal Traveler" for the New York Times. So I knew I had to go… now.

To really explore the region, you'd need at least a week and a car. My father and I had neither. (We could have rented a car, but Dad wasn't particularly keen on spending his vacation behind the wheel, and since I haven't even been behind a wheel in years, getting my feet wet on back roads in the Italian countryside didn't seem like a great plan).

We had a great three-day trip. We ate well, visited important sites, relaxed at the beach, and explored a couple of truly beautiful towns. So don't let anyone tell you you simply can't do Puglia as a short trip from Rome, by train. If you have to, you can.

First stop: Bari. More posts to come!

Day One in Bari

It's hard to find many people who are in love with Bari; even Italians get a slight crinkle in their nose when the city is mentioned. When tourists come, it's mostly because they have to — it's a big hub not only for Puglia, but for ferries to Albania, Croatia and Greece, not to mention lots of Mediterranean cruises.

And, yes, there are things about Bari that aren't fantastic. Much of the city is built-up and modern, for example, so if you're looking for something that strikes you as idyllic and medieval as soon as you step off the train, you're in the wrong place. More than anything else, this is a working town. You know. One not based primarily on tourism to survive.

That said? Bari is incredibly lively (despite loving how, in small towns across Italy, full families, teenagers, and old men take to the piazzas every evening to stroll and chat, I'd never seen quite as many people do this as in Bari). It has a lovely, labyrinthine centro storico, even though it takes a bus ride or a half-hour walk to get there from the train station. The people are super-friendly. And there are some sites that are actually pretty important.

Overall, it's not a bad launching-point for explorations into more southern parts of Puglia. (For its love-it-or-hate-it quality, as well as the atmosphere, Bari reminded me a bit of Naple s).

To get there from Rome, we hopped the fast train, which took four hours and cost €51 one-way. (If you book far enough in advance to take advantage of a MINI fare, you can snag a ticket for €41). The slowest train costs just €36, but takes 6.5 hours. Ouch).

Getting to Bari by train was pretty easy. Promptly after arriving, we spent some 30 minutes sitting on a bus, waiting for it to start, and then another 45 minutes wandering, lost, around the gorgeous but incredibly confusing centro storico. (Told you it was labyrinthine). Supposedly, it was designed that way to perplex Saracenic invaders. It must have worked pretty well. But we finally found our B&B, "La Uascezze". Luckily, it was lovely, super-clean, and complete with a small kitchen, all for €80 per night.

We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering—more!—around the centro storico. Although I'd been looking forward to kicking off with some proper Pugliese food, though, I'd made the terrible decision to get to Bari on a Monday… which meant that almost all of the non-touristy restaurants were closed. So be warned.

Still, we were able to explore Bari's famous churches, including the 12th-century Church of St. Nicolas of Bari, home to the relics of the saint himself (above), and the Cathedral of San Sabino, built to Bari's first patron saint before Nicolas knocked him off his pedestal (below).
We even popped into the Castello Normanno-Svevo. Also 12th-century, the castle has belonged to everyone from Norman king Roger II to Holy Roman emperor Frederick II; Bona Sforza, queen of Poland, lived here in the 15th-century, and the king of Naples later turned it into a prison. Only hints of its former residents are left today, but it's still a treat to be able to walk through the imposing fortification—for only €2 each.

Bari had its atmosphere, and the centro storico and churches were definitely lovely. But after a full afternoon and evening, we were ready to head to our next destination: Polignano a Mare. Stay tuned for the next post!

Expat extras, Rome

Metro A Closes for August (Partly)

July 25, 2011 No Comments

Important news: Big parts of Line A of Rome’s metro system will be closed in August. And, yes, Rome’s metro system has only two lines. So take note!

For work and for construction of Rome’s third metro line, Linea C, Metro A has already been closing at 9pm. Here are the new changes for August:

From July 30-August 3, there won’t be any service on Line A between Termini and Anagnina. Instead, there will be replacement bus services. (This half of the metro line includes stops at Vittorio Emanuele, Manzoni, and San Giovanni). Until 1:30am, though, there will be service in the other direction, from Termini to Battistini (if you’re traveling to Rome, you’re more likely to use this side of the line, which includes stops at Barberini, Spagna, and Ottaviano-San Pietro).

From August 4-29, there won’t be any service between Termini and Arco di Travertino, a section of the line that includes Vittorio Emanuele, Manzoni and San Giovanni, although that part will operate on Aug. 6, 13, 20 and 27. (They’re all Saturdays). Until 9pm every day, the metro will be active in the other direction, from Termini to Battistini, as well as from Arco di Travertino to the end of the line at Anagnina. And on those Saturdays, Aug. 6, 13, 20 and 27, the line will be active between Battistini-Termini and Arco di Travertino-Anagnina until 1:30am.

Whew!

Don’t worry, though — the metro doesn’t connect lots of major tourist sites in Rome (there’s no, say, Pantheon or Piazza Venezia stop… something they’re more or less trying to change with Line C), and in the summer, it can be uncomfortably hot and crowded. So here are six alternative modes of transport for those hot Rome days.

Archaeological sites, Events, Rome

Opera in Rome, Outdoors, at the Ancient Baths of Caracalla (Updated for 2013)

July 22, 2011 3 Comments

There's nothing like seeing opera in Rome… especially when it's outdoors, backdropped by the ancient Baths of Caracalla.

Once again this summer, Rome's 3rd-century baths are hosting one of Italy's most famous summer opera series (there are ballet performances, too). And it's definitely worth doing.

The enormous Baths of Caracalla, which deserve a visit in their own right, are especially atmospheric at night. And so they're a breathtaking (if not always entirely plot-appropriate) backdrop for some of Italy's best-loved operas and ballets. The indoor performance space of Rome's Teatro dell'Opera is wonderful, too. But in summer, there's nothing quite like catching the performances out in the fresh air, with the colored light playing on the ancient ruins.

The Teatro dell'Opera summer 2013 lineup includes not only opera, but ballet and concerts. Top picks include an American Ballet Theatre production by Robert Bollet and friends on July 21 and 22, the one-off concert directed by Ennio Morricone on July 25, and, of course, the classic, Puccini's opera Tosca, from Aug. 1 to 6.

Tickets start at €25, but I'd advise springing for the more-expensive seats. (The "cheap seats" are all the way on the sides, where it's be hard to see much at all). When I went, I sprang for a middle-of-the-road €60 seat, which had a great view… even if the plastic chair still had me squirming with discomfort by the show's end.

Book your tickets for the Baths of Caracalla performances online, by calling 800 907080
(from abroad, 0039 (0)6 48078400), or buy them ticket points around the city. If you're a student, under 25, or older than 65, with your ID, you can get 25 percent off.

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