Tips & tricks Archives - Page 6 of 11

How to Get from Fiumicino Airport to Rome (Updated for 2017)

October 15, 2012 13 Comments

If you’re coming to Rome from abroad, you’ll probably be landing at the Rome Fiumicino airport. And by the time you get off your flight, you’ll be jet-lagged, exhausted, and anything but “switched on.” No matter how excited you are to be in Rome.

That’s why you have to have an idea of how you’ll get from the airport to your Rome hotel before you land. Because otherwise, that taxi driver who (illegally) approaches you at the terminal to offer you a ride, when your hands are full of bags and you’ve realized your phrasebook Italian isn’t enough to ask someone where you should go, might seem tempting.

Less so 80 or 90 euros later.

Luckily, getting from Fiumicino into the center of Rome by public transport is pretty straightforward. You just need to know what your options are in advance!

Nota bene: If you have a ton of luggage, I’d recommend booking a transfer or taking a taxi. That’s because, when you get into the city on your train or bus, you’ll probably have to transfer to another form of public transport. Not only does that often involve some walking, but even at some metro stations—like the Colosseo metro stop—there’s no escalator or elevator whatsoever, only stairs. And if you’re in three people or more, it’s a no-brainer: splitting a taxi winds up being almost as cheap as the train.

The tourist train “Leonardo da Vinci Express” train

How to get to Rome from Fiumicino airport — The Leonardo da Vinci Express takes you right to Termini—which can be a good option, but isn’t always the best

The train station at Fiumicino is located within short walking distance of the baggage claim. Just follow the signs for the train station, or ask anyone at the airport. Most travelers planning on taking the train into central Rome opt for the Leonardo da Vinci Express train. It goes directly from the airport to Termini station, making no stops, and takes half an hour. (From Termini, you have to get to your hotel on your own, however—and if you opt for a cab, it’s likely to be another €10 to €15. So always consider whether it’s just cheaper to take a cab or transfer directly from the airport, instead!).

Because it does go to Termini, unlike the other train, then if you know you need to take the metro line A to your hotel, this is a good bet. Still, locals know better than to take the Leonardo da Vinci. Why? Because it costs €14 each way—and, instead, you could just take…

The regional train (treno regionale)

The normal, regionale train leaves from the same station at Fiumicino, also takes a half an hour, and costs just €8 each way. However, it doesn’t go to Termini. Instead, it makes several stops in Rome, including at Stazione Ostiense—probably the most useful if you’re staying in the centro storico.

To get from Ostiense station to the center, either hop a cab outside the station or follow the signs for the metro; a 5-minute walk brings you to the Piramide metro stop on the B line. From there, it’s two stops to the Colosseo metro stop or four to Termini, where you can switch to the A line.

If you’re staying in Testaccio or near the Colosseum, are planning on getting a cab from the station in Rome to your hotel anyway, and/or are on a tight budget, this is a good bet.

The bus

Several buses run from Fiumicino to the city center. They take a little under an hour, depending on traffic, but are a cheaper option than the train. They include the SIT bus shuttle, Terravision bus (run by Ryanair), COTRAL bus, and ATRAL-Lazio bus. Each costs about €5, each way, and most go right to the Termini train station.

The taxi (with, yay, a flat rate!)

There is a flat rate to go from the Fiumicino airport to the city center: €48, including all luggage and any extra charges.

As soon as you get in a taxi at the airport, therefore, make sure your driver does not run the meter and only pay that amount at the end. It is illegal for your driver to charge you more.

By the center of Rome, by the way, I (and the city of Rome) mean anything within the Aurelian walls. So if you’re staying anywhere near Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, or Colosseum, you’re good. If you have any doubt about whether the hotel is in the centro storico, ask your hotel in advance; if it’s outside of the historic center, your driver has the right to run the meter and to charge you supplements instead of the flat fare. (And probably will).

Booking a transfer in advance

Finally, you can, of course, book a transfer with a company in advance; there are a million and one Rome transfer companies (and tour companies that offer transfers). The price is generally €65 and up, but if you don’t want to deal with the stress of making sure a taxi won’t screw you over, and you just want to be able to relax knowing that a driver will be waiting for you, with your name on a sign, right when you get out of baggage claim, then this is the option for you.

Uber

Yes: the app taking over the world’s cities has made it to Rome (much to the consternation of taxi drivers). Although the basic idea of this ride-sharing app is similar to other cities, there’s one big difference. Rome doesn’t offer UberX or the other lower-priced services; it only has the higher-end services: UberBLACK, UberLUX and UberVAN. That means that, often, taking an Uber is as expensive as (or more expensive than) taking a taxi. But it also means that drivers often aren’t “normal” people picking up some cash on the side, but rather professional drivers, which is a benefit. From Ciampino airport (which has WiFi, so you can book an Uber using the Uber app on your phone when you arrive), it should be about €40 into the center, although, as always with Uber, it depends on pricing and availability at that time. (You get a fare estimate before you book). Update, October 2017: The legal status of Uber in Italy has been changing as of late — it was banned in April, then re-legalized in May — so before you count on it, double-check by Googling it online.

Coming from Ciampino airport, instead? Here is how to get to the Rome center from Ciampino.

Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Updated, Expanded and New for 2017, which includes many more tips and tricks like these in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

Rome, Tips & tricks

Five Tips for Taking Great Photos in Rome

September 28, 2012 5 Comments

Want to take travel photos that make Rome look its best? Then read on!

If you're traveling to Italy, you'll probably be taking (lots of) photographs.

And, look. Not everyone cares about taking great travel photographs.(Believe me, I get it—I often take photos just to help me remember where I was!).

Even so, having a few tips in mind can help. For one, it means you'll spend less time on your trip fiddling with settings—or frustrated when your photos don't turn out right. For another, better photos mean you can avoid boring your relatives, and Facebook friends, to death with your trip albums. Not to mention that it's pretty rewarding to return from a trip and have some photographs you're actually proud of (and maybe that you even want to print and frame!).

Here are five top tips for how to take great photos in Rome (or, well, anywhere).

Don't think you need a super-fancy camera or DSLR to take great photos

Photo taken with a point-and-shoot in Rome

I didn't have my DSLR on me when I happened to catch the sun setting over the forum. Instead, this is taken with my Sony Cybershot—which is a fantastic camera, but notably less expensive than a DSLR.

I also grabbed a shot with my iPhone 4S, which handled the scene (and lack of light) remarkably well.

Yes, I have a DSLR. (A 3-year-old Nikon D90, to be precise). Now that I've learned how to use it (more on that in a moment), I love it. But some of my favorite photos weren't taken with a "fancy camera"; they were taken with a point-and-shoot or, in some cases, an iPhone.

So, truly. Don't feel like you have to be limited by your equipment. Just learn to use what you've got. And if you don't have the time to learn your camera, don't bother to invest in it. Seriously.

Read the camera manual. Or at least the first few pages.

Can you get a shot like this one if you never open your manual? Sure. Is it a whole lot easier if you know your camera? Absolutely.

This is a favorite tip from my friend, and uber-talented travel photographer, Ken Kaminesky. "Read. The. Manual." He couldn't be more correct.

When I first bought my DSLR, the (100-page!) manual overwhelmed me. So, instead, I did what any aspiring photographer busy person would do: I didn't read it. Instead, for the first year, I took almost all of my photographs on the "automatic" setting.

Here's the thing. Because of the high quality of the camera itself, my photos came out crisper and clearer than they would have with a more basic point-and-shoot. But? I still took a lot of crappy photos. The camera would focus on something I didn't want it to. Or the photo would come out blurry, especially when I was taking photos without much light (more on that later).

Frustrated, I finally sat down and, you guessed it, read the manual. And wow. Did my photography get better. There was no way I could possibly remember everything I read, but it at least laid the groundwork. And I make a point of trying to re-skim it every so often. Every time I do, I find some new capability I could be using that I'd forgotten about.

So whether you've invested in a "serious camera" or not, make sure you read at least the start of your manual. There's no excuse for you to not know how to, say, turn your flash on and off. Seriously.

Avoid taking photos at midday

In the late afternoon, the light has softened to a lovely glow, with interesting shadows

Good photographers know that the best time for picture-taking tends to be in the early morning or late afternoon. Midday, the sun is directly overhead and at its strongest, casting a harsh, unflattering light on everything (and everyone).

But this is a particularly good tip for sunny Rome, especially in the summer. From about 11am to 3pm, the sun bleaches out everything. Even the Colosseum looks uninteresting. So, instead, and especially if it's a sunny day, try to take your shots as far out of that window as possible.

The late afternoon, an hour or so before the sun goes down, is when I tend to have the best luck: The light is warm, flattering, and beautiful, but there's still enough of it that you don't have to worry about camera-shake (keep reading if you don't know what that is).

It pays to take photos in the rain!

(This is also the reason, by the way, that photographs come out so beautifully when the weather is gray or stormy).

Know when there is, and isn't, enough light (hello, Rome churches, restaurants, and sunsets)

In a situation like this—the underground of the church of San Crisogono in Trastevere—you'll obviously need some extra strategies to get enough light. But Rome's underground isn't the only place where you'll have to work around the darkness!

Ever taken photos of, say, a church interior, gotten back home, and wondered why they were so fuzzy?

It's probably because there wasn't enough light.

When you're inside, or when the sun is just starting to set, there often isn't enough light for the camera to "see" properly without a flash. That darkness isn't something you always automatically notice yourself, because our eyes naturally adjust in a matter of nanoseconds. But your camera isn't quite as adaptable. You have to tell it to adapt.

So if there's less light, and your camera is doing its automatic thang, then either your flash pops up… or the shutter speed slows down. That lets the camera's shutter stay open, longer, to capture more light. But the longer the shutter is open for, the more the camera is registering not just the light, but also the natural vibrations of your hands—i.e., "camera shake." Result: blurry photos.

For crisp interior and dusk or nighttime photos, you have a few basic options. You can use a tripod (or rest your camera on a makeshift tripod, like a chair, the floor, or church pew). You can turn on the flash (although please see below first). You can crank up the ISO, which represents your camera's sensitivity to light. (The higher the ISO is, though, the worse-quality, and grainier, the photos tend to be).

High ISO photo of church interior in Rome

To get this shot without a lot of camera shake (my shutter speed was at 1/60, already a little too slow for my liking), I had to crank up the ISO to 1600. Result: it's less fuzzy than it would have been, but is starting to show some graininess.

Or, depending on your comfort with your "manual" setting, you can change the F-stop. The lower the number of the F-stop, the less "depth of field" there is. That means the camera will focus on a narrower and narrower point, blurring whatever's farther away from, or closer than, that particular subject.

An example of low depth of field: Instead of the entire cupcake, wrapper, and table being in focus, only the frosting is. (Also, now I'm hungry).

Finally, a trick I use when I have no other option: Take several photos right in a row, just keeping the button pressed down. Often, what causes the most "shake" is the movement of depressing the shutter button. So while the first photo might be blurry, the second or third one might not be. Here are two photos I took, with all of the same settings, right in a row in this Rome restaurant:

First photo I took

Second photo: same exact specs, but less camera shake

Know when flash is and isn't appropriate

A good tourist, like this one, knows to turn off the flash in a church

Especially when photo-takers notice their nighttime or interior shots aren't coming out right, they tend to turn on the flash.

However. Please keep in mind that, first of all, your flash doesn't go that far. So if you're, say, at the overlook of the Roman forum while the sun is setting, hoping to get that perfect dusk shot of the ruins 50 yards away, the flash is not going to make a difference.

And, depending on where you are, using your flash can be annoying and even rude. Times you should never use flash include:

when you're inside a church and people are praying, or a Mass is going on
when you're at an indoor or outdoor performance (the number of flashes going off at the opera at the arena of Verona killed me… especially because, again, everyone was way too far from the stage for the flash to make their photos come out any better—all it did was annoy everyone)
when you're taking a photo of delicate artwork, including frescoes or (even more importantly) cloth or tapestries (the Hall of Tapestries in the Vatican, I'm talking about you), since the flash is damaging

Other problems with flash: It can bleach out your subject, and its light is pretty flattening. (Not flattering. Flattening).

As a result, here are the only two times I tend to use flash:

when I'm in a hurry and don't have time to fiddle with various settings before the shot slips away, or
when I'm taking a photograph of a subject when the light is coming directly from behind them (for example, a friend of mine standing in front of a sunset). This is called being "backlit." The camera might not automatically tell me it wants to use flash, because it thinks there's enough light from behind my subject. But I know that, if I let it just go on its automatic way, my friend will be just a silhouette in front of a sunset. That can be cool, but if I want to actually see her face, I have to turn on the flash.

One time to use flash: when you'd be backlit otherwise

Also: the best museum not on your list, the five most romantic places in Rome and my go-to street for the best shopping.

Want more tips? Check out The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon, below, or through my site here!

Rome, Tips & tricks

Featured on Radio Show “How to Tour Italy”

September 16, 2012 No Comments

Tired of reading my tips and tricks to Rome and Italy—and want to sit back, relax, and listen instead? Then tune into my half-hour chat with Anthony Capozzoli on the radio show "How to Tour Italy." From the best way to experience Umbria in a day trip, to my take on Italian graffiti, to (most importantly) why funky-looking Italian lemons don't bother either of us, but the sight of puffy, pretty gelato does, we covered a lot of—very varied—ground.

Here are some of the other great guests Anthony has had on his show.

Anthony, it was a pleasure to appear on your show, and I look forward to chatting with you for more episodes in the future!

Archaeological sites, Museums, Rome, Tips & tricks

Three Top Sights in Rome… That Must Be Booked in Advance

September 12, 2012 7 Comments

Want to see Titian's "Sacred and Profane Love"? Then you have to book your spot

For some of the best sights in Rome, you don't need to worry about reservations, or tickets, or a booking. You can waltz right into the Pantheon, explore Rome's lovely small churches, or gawk at Rome's archaeological treasures in the Palazzo Massimo without so much as a booking.

But some of Rome's coolest experiences do need to be planned in advance. How you'll get into the Colosseum or Sistine Chapel without standing in a 3-hour line, for example. (More on that in a future post). And some actually need to be booked.

Yes, you heard me. In the land of la dolce vita and 2-hour lunch breaks, there are tourist sights you can't get into unless you have a reservation.

And here they are.

St. Peter’s tomb

The necropolis under St. Peter’s Basilica—which includes what’s thought to be the tomb of St. Peter—makes a super-cool visit for anyone, not just pilgrims. The ancient tombs here are both pagan and Christian, many still with elaborate mosaic decoration; it gives you a great idea of what a 1^st-century, above-ground cemetery would have looked like.

But because the archaeological site is delicate, only 250 visitors can enter per day, on tours only, and must book in advance. Note that visitors also must be at least 15 years old.

To book, email scavi@fsp.va or fax +39 0669873017. You also can ask at the Excavations Office when you’re in Rome, but because these tours tend to book out weeks ahead of time, I wouldn't wait until then to do so. Make sure to include the number of participants, names, which language you need, how to contact you, and the period when you’re available to attend.

Borghese Gallery

The Borghese Gallery, which must be booked in advance

This is my favorite art museum in Rome, and it’s absolutely a must-see. To keep it a pleasant experience, however (and to protect the art), the museum limits the number of people who can be inside at any one time. Entrances are at 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, and 5pm, daily except Monday. Book at least a week in advance in high season.

To book, either go to galleriaborghese.it and click on “Tickets reservations” or call +39 0632810. There is a €1.50 surcharge per ticket for booking online. You also can automatically get a reservation by booking a tour with a reputable tour company.

Palazzo Valentini

If the Borghese is my favorite art museum, this is my favorite ancient, underground site. (Although that sounds quite specific I can assure you that, in a city chock-full of them, it’s not!). Smack in the center of Rome, not far from the Forum, the 16^th-century palazzo sits on top of two opulent, ancient Roman villas. An (enthusiastic! and dramatic!) automated tour takes you through them as—drumroll, please—light shows “recreate” what they would have looked like.

You can book online at palazzovalentini.it (just make sure you pick an English, “inglese,” tour!). Or you can call +39 0632810, or make an appointment in person. However, particularly in high season or if you have limited time, I’d recommend booking this at least a week in advance.

Accommodation, Explainers, Rome, Tips & tricks

Rome Neighborhoods: How to Know Where to Stay (Updated for 2018)

August 27, 2012 27 Comments

Figuring out the neighborhoods of Rome can be a little confusing. Even though it’s a big city, most tourists spend most of their time in the centro storico — and that’s where most hotels are, too.

But simply looking for accommodation in Rome’s “historic center” isn’t enough. That’s because the center is divided by neighborhoods, some of which feel pretty different from the next.

So you’ll need to know not only that you want to stay in the historic center… but which neighborhood to stay in in the centro storico, too.

What is the centro storico?

If you want to stay in the centro storico, you first need to know… what is the centro storico.

Technically, the centro storico is the area of Rome that’s bordered by the 3rd-century Aurelian walls and by the mura gianicolensi, which include the Vatican walls. There aren’t many good maps online that have the walls clearly delineated. This is one of the best I could find.

Centro storico of Rome and how to know what neighborhood to stay in — Map of the historic center of Rome and the Aurelian walls

The thin, black line running around the entire center is the Aurelian walls. (You can find it by looking at the square marked “Castro Pretorio” in the upper right-hand part of the city). Although the neighborhood and monuments are all ancient Roman, you can get some perspective by looking for the Colosseum (a little ring almost right in the center), Circus Maximus (to the southwest of the Colosseum), and the Tiber.

This area—which includes not only the Colosseum and forum, but the Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Navona, Pantheon, and Vatican — is the historic center. And if you’re staying in Rome, this is where you’ll probably want to stay. (Nota bene: There are, of course, many other, perfectly pleasant neighborhoods in Rome outside of the historic center. But I’m sticking to the centro storico here just because it tends to be most conveneint for most people).

Now, for the neighborhoods. (I recommend opening a tab with Google maps and keeping it handy so you can refer back and forth!).

The neighborhood where… everyone stays: the heart of the centro storico

What neighborhood to stay in in Rome — The Spanish Steps: in the heart of it all

This isn’t technically a neighborhood, but I’m using it as shorthand for the central area that most people think of when they think “Rome”—the triangle with Piazza del Popolo in the north, the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain to the east, and the Pantheon and Piazza Navona to the west.

This stunning area is home to cobb where most people want to stay. Of course, it’s also where hotels are the most expensive, where the streets crowd with tourists and shoppers, and where 99% of restaurants are overpriced and mediocre. On the other hand, every corner looks like a postcard. Hey, you win some, you lose some!

A street in the historic center — In the streets around Piazza Navona, every corner looks like a postcard

The neighborhood where… it feels most big-city: Via Veneto, Piazza Barberini and Repubblica

This northeastern corner of the historic center is home to the winding Via Veneto. The street is famous for its hotels—although most seem, at least to me, to be huge and overpriced. Meanwhile, the rest of the area, especially near the Barberini and Repubblica metro stops, feels like a big city.

For the most part, forget cobblestones and quaint churches. This is where the buildings are tall, the streets wide, and the passersby businesslike.

Come il Latte best gelato in Rome — Then again, the Repubblica area is home to my favorite gelato shop, Come il Latte, so… there’s that.

Termini and the Esquiline

Although some hoteliers diplomatically call this neighborhood “Monti,” anything from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele to Santa Maria Maggiore and northeast to the Termini train station is, more properly, the Esquiline hill. In general, the neighborhood here tends to feel gritty and look grungy. This is where you’ll see immigrants hawking counterfeited purses, homeless people huddling in corners, and garbage littering the street.

It’s also home to many of Rome’s cheapest hotels, hostels and B&Bs.

The area tends to be perfectly safe. Rome is, as a whole, much safer when it comes to muggings and violent crimes than pretty much any city in America, as well as Dublin, London and Paris. But it may not be what you imagined when you first pictured Rome. Also keep in mind that, while it may seem very convenient to stay near the train station, and while that means this area is well-connected by metro and bus, it’s not within easy walking distance of most of the major sights, like the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.

Monti

In ancient times, this rione was the red-light district, home to gladiators and prostitutes (Julius Caesar even moved there to show he was “one of the people”). Today, it’s a gorgeous little neighborhood filled with medieval palazzi, cobblestoned streets, and an eclectic mix of traditional trattorie and hip boutiques.

If you want to stay here, look at the area bordered by Via Nazionale (to the west), Santa Maria Maggiore (to the north), the Colle Oppio park (to the east), and the Roman forum and Colosseum (to the south).

Piazzetta in Monti neighborhood of Rome — This little piazzetta in Monti is where all the locals hang out — and where Woody Allen, Alec Baldwin and all the rest filmed some key scenes from *To Rome with Love* back in 2011

Celio

Further southwest of Monti is Celio, another rione with a strong history. The couple of blocks right around the Colosseum tend to be touristy and busy during the day, but the rest of this area, which stretches southeast to the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, feels quiet and residential. I lived here for four years, and I still think it’s one of the most underrated areas of the city.

Aventine

This hill, just south of the Circus Maximus, is home to some of the loveliest streets and homes in Rome. Its small size and exclusivity mean there are few hotels and B&Bs here. It also doesn’t feel like it’s “in the middle” of anything, thanks to its greenery and the fact that it’s at least a 15-minute walk to most of the major sights.

Forum Boarium

This neighborhood is really a sliver, tucked just to the south and west of Circus Maximus. The neighborhood has some wonderful sights — including the Church of San Giorgio in Velabro, the Arch of Janus, and the Church of San Nicola in Carcere — and it’s just a three-minute walk to the Jewish Ghetto and Piazza Venezia. It’s also tranquil, lovely and off the beaten path.

Campo dei Fiori and the Jewish Ghetto

What to see in JEwish Ghetto the synagogue — Rome’s Jewish Ghetto: lovely and convenient

From Piazza Venezia to the Tiber, you’ve got beautiful ancient ruins, the Jewish Ghetto, lively Campo dei Fiori, and my favorite piazza in Rome, Piazza Farnese. This district has the atmosphere (and history) of the area around Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, with half of the people.

Trastevere

Just over the Tiber from Campo dei Fiori and the Ghetto is Trastevere, an atmospheric district that, today, is as likely to be home to American study-abroad students, expats and wealthy Italians as the working-class and bohemian Romans who once lived here. Still, the neighborhood remains charming. There are plenty of corners and tiny streets where life is still lived much as it would have been decades ago.

Prati

If you find the center of Rome’s centro storico too confusing and chaotic, consider Prati. This area around the Vatican, just over the river from sights like Piazza Navona and Piazza del Popolo, was laid out in the 19^th century, so its grid system and wide boulevards look more continental and, well, organized than the rest of Rome.

Prati neighborhood of Rome with St. Peter's Basilicaa — If you want to see this view frequently during your trip, pick Prati

The area right around the Vatican museums and St. Peter’s is extremely touristy. But once you get a little farther away, authentic restaurants and the rhythm of daily life in Rome abound. It’s also easier to find cheaper accommodation here.

Testaccio

Just south of the Aventine, the Testaccio quarter is one of the least touristy in Rome — and has some of the best restaurants and bakeries in the city. The ancient area, which gets its name from “Monte Testaccio,” a hill that literally was created because it was a dump for ancient Roman amphorae, can feel more modern and gritty than the center of the city. But it’s perfectly safe, cheaper than the center, and convenient: Thanks to the metro and lots of buses here, you’re just 5 to 15 minutes away from Trastevere, the Colosseum, and the heart of the historic center.

Also: six of the best trattorias in Rome, how to act like a local and where to find that perfect souvenir or gift in the city.

If you liked this post, you’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

Rome, Tips & tricks

New Revealed Rome Tool: A Map!

August 1, 2012 5 Comments

My new map of Rome

As my site expands, I'm finding myself trying to think of new ways for it—and, by extension, for Rome—to be navigable to readers.

Enter a suggestion from a friend of mine, who says he used Revealed Rome to plan his trip last week, but could have used a little more help on where was what: a map. Um. Brilliant. (Thanks, Billy!).

So here it is. A map of Rome in which I impatiently lovingly inserted every single sight, restaurant, shop, hotel, and church I've written about on Revealed Rome. At your service.

I hope it helps you plan your trip—or, if you're already in Rome and have a smartphone, for seeing what I might recommend in the area. Just two things to keep in mind:

1) I don't recommend every place I've mapped without reservations. Some are sights that not everyone might like; others are restaurants that have gone downhill. So, when you click on a pushpin to see what it is, please also click where it says "website" to read what I wrote about it in my linked blog post.

2) Please note that this is not an exhaustive guide to everything I recommend doing and seeing in Rome. (That's for another day!). Instead, it's a more visual way to navigate the blog posts I've written.

What do you think? Any other ideas to help improve Revealed Rome? Let me know in the comments!

Rome, Tips & tricks

How to Avoid Being Pickpocketed in Rome

July 25, 2012 18 Comments

Crime in Rome is very low, especially violent crime (which includes mugging). And pickpocketing? It’s not something you have to be paranoid about. Really.

That said, it does happen—just as it does in Barcelona, or Paris, or Istanbul. And there’s no quicker way to ruin a vacation than to reach into your pocket and discover that your wallet’s been lifted.

Just remember that some pickpockets are very talented. Once they’ve picked you as their target, you can kiss that wallet goodbye. The key is to not get picked as their target to begin with.

Here’s how.

Forget trying to “not look like a tourist”

Even if you dressed like this girl, something else would still give you away

Unless you’re a gifted style chameleon and already have a wardrobe of Italy-bought items, you won’t look like an Italian. And even if you are wearing something lifted from an Italian fashion blog, something else will give you away—your hand gestures, your haircut, even your smile. That’s before you open your mouth and start speaking English, or Italian with a foreign accent.

So while it feels nice to blend in as much as possible, know that you probably won’t be able to “pass.” Not to mention that people who regularly encounter tourists—from waiters to tour guides to, yes, pickpockets—will be especially attuned to being able to tell if you’re a tourist or not.

It’s not a bad thing. It’s just a fact.

But do try not look like a clueless tourist…

Some items of clothing will mark you as not just a tourist, but one who hasn’t traveled much. And that can make you a particular target. I’m talking about the classics here. The big white sneakers. Fanny packs. Sweatsuits and sweatpants. T-shirts printed with “I LOVE ROME”.

Fairly or not, these items aren’t just interpreted as “I’m a tourist”; they’re interpreted as “I’m a tourist, and I’m on my first trip abroad ever!”.

Danger, Will Robinson. Danger.

Or to act like one

When you’re focusing on your photo op, keep your wits about you

Put simply, you should always be aware of what’s going on around you, especially if you’re in a very crowded area or a very quiet, dark one. For example, here are some things not to do:

when getting that perfect photo, don’t focus on your camera so much that you wouldn’t notice someone coming up behind you
at an outdoor restaurant or cafe, don’t leave your purse dangling off the back of your chair, or sitting on the ground next to you
don’t get so engrossed in a conversation with a friend on the bus that neither of you notice the person taking the opportunity to lift a wallet out of your purse

I’ve seen all three of these situations happen. Every time, they could have been avoided.

Know the classic tricks

If you’re in a crowd and you’re suddenly, inexplicably shoved, that’s a red flag. As you catch your balance, your hands go up (away from your purse or pockets), you stop paying attention for a split second… and it’s the perfect moment to lift your wallet.

Or, if you’re on a metro or bus that’s packed to the gills and someone forces their way on—despite there being clearly no room at all on the bus—that could be a trick, too. Of course, lots of people try to shove on. But if you see someone squeeze on and then continue to work their way through the bus, despite the crowd, that’s a sign of something fishy.

Another classic pickpocketing trick: Boarding the metro right before the doors close, grabbing a wallet (perhaps with the shove-and-surprise move), and then exiting just as the doors are closing.

Finally, be aware when you see a group of several people (usually, unfortunately, Roma), begging on a street or along a crowd. There will be a child or two, or a cardboard sign, or sometimes both. Stop to read the sign, and a child gets you from your back pocket. Turn to the child, and someone’s pickpocketing you while using the sign as cover.

Clearly, you can’t know every trick in the book. And—since it isn’t likely you’ll encounter these scenarios on one or two trips to Rome—you don’t have to.

But if something strikes you as “off,” like someone jamming their way into a bus or knocking into you, trust that instinct.

Choose a purse or moneybelt that makes a pickpocket’s life hard

Look: I don’t think it’s necessary to have a moneybelt in Rome. It always strikes me as a little paranoid, as well as inconvenient—every time you buy a gelato or a museum ticket, you have to reach down under your shirt or pants and take out cash? (Without making the people around you think you’re about to expose yourself to them?). And if you’re in a high-risk situation, what’s to stop someone from pickpocketing you at that moment?

Still, we’re talking about the best ways to deter pickpockets here. And wearing a moneybelt can be one of them.

As long as it’s the right kind of moneybelt. One that goes over your clothes is useless. It’s really useless if it’s back-facing, like a fannypack. Front-facing, it’s still not much better than having a wallet in your front pocket or a purse over your shoulder. The most secure kind goes under your clothes (but then that inconvenience factor comes into play).

Otherwise, a purse or wallet can be fine. Wallets should always be carried in a front pocket, not a back pocket. In certain (crowded) situations, be sure to keep your hand on the pocket with the wallet in it.

Purses should have a zip top; no outside pockets (at least that you put anything important in); ideally a separate, zipped compartment inside for your wallet; and should still be carried at the front of your body, with your arm over the top, when in a potentially “high-risk” situation (see below). (I’d much rather you had someone like my guy Armando Rioda make you a purse like this here in Italy, but if that’s not in the cards, something like this cheap leather tote or this cute red Coach purse would work great).

As an aside, my wallet’s been lifted from my purse once in Rome. It was five years ago, when I was visiting before I moved here. And I’d made every mistake in the book: I had a big purse with my wallet lying right on top of everything else, everything was unzipped and open, and my purse was on my back, and I wasn’t paying any attention.

Don’t carry ridiculous amounts of cash

I just read a moneybelt review saying the traveler safely carried around €800 in cash on their trip. I guess that speaks highly of the moneybelt… because that’s an absurd thing to do!

I get it: You want to minimize the amount of ATM fees by taking out a lot of money at once. And you’re worried you won’t find an ATM when you do need cash. But you’re in a city. There are lots of ATMs everywhere.And I’d rather spend $5 or even $10 extra per transaction to not have to worry that, if something happened, I’d be out €800.

At the very least, don’t carry that much on you because, when you’re going into your moneybelt to take a bill out of that thick wad of cash, people (and potential pickpockets) will see that you’re Mr. Moneybags.

Perhaps the most important tip: Remember that context is key

At crowded markets like Porta Portese, be especially aware

You could make all of these mistakes while sitting on a bench in quiet Piazza Farnese, or looking at a mosaic in the Palazzo Massimo, or while sightseeing on the Palatine Hill, and—most likely—you’d still leave with your belongings intact. That’s because, although you should always be aware of your surroundings, these types of situations—where you’re in an uncrowded area, especially one where you have to pay to be there—are ones where you can generally let your guard down.

When you have to be careful is when you’re 1) in the tourist crowds and 2) it’s easy to access you (and your pockets) and leave, all without 3) much monetary investment on the pickpocket’s part.

So while you can relax a bit in the Sistine Chapel (seriously, what pickpocket wants to pay €15 and, if he’s caught, be stuck in an enclosed space?), do be especially aware at the Termini train station, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Porta Portese market, and Colosseum. Also be highly cautious on crowded buses and subway trains.

Finally, relax

Is it more likely you’d be pickpocketed in Rome than in a tiny town in Vermont or Utah? Yep. Is it still really unlikely anything bad will happen to you? Definitely. In the three years I’ve lived here, I’ve never had a problem, despite taking public transportation constantly and often being in crowds.

So be aware, but relax. Pickpocketing isn’t the only way to ruin a vacation—pickpocketing paranoia can, too!

Archaeological sites, Art, Churches & holy sites, Food & drink, Museums, Rome, Tips & tricks

How Should I Schedule My Sightseeing in Rome?

July 15, 2012 2 Comments

Not everything’s open every day in Rome. The Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel close one day a week; so do lots of favorite restaurants and shops.

So when planning your trip to Rome, it pays to have a basic idea of what day in the week is best for which sight or activity. Here’s help. (In the form of a “rhyme.” Move aside, Shakespeare Keats Dr. Seuss Eddie Mannix).

And here it is… in video form!

Dreaming of the Sistine Chapel? Then don’t go on a Sunday

You’ll also be out of luck if you were hoping to see the School of Athens.

The Vatican museums (which include the Sistine Chapel) are open every day but Sunday. On the last Sunday of the month, they are open and free, but it’s not something I recommend if you value your vacation time; the line is often three hours or more (and you can’t book a ticket in advance on the Vatican website). St. Peter’s Basilica is open daily; on Sunday, the Pope appears at 12pm to an audience on the square, and on Wednesday, he has his general audience at 10:30am.

Best time to go to the Vatican: Wednesday morning, as the museums tend to be emptier while the Pope does his audience; otherwise, Tuesdays, Thursdays or Fridays, since Saturday and Monday tend to be crowded with people who would have gone on Sunday.

And stay away from smaller churches—at least if it is midday

Most churches are open daily in Rome. However, many of the more off-the-beaten-path churches also close midday, some for as long as from 12pm to 4pm, so always check. On Sunday, remember that they may be holding Mass and more ceremonies than usual, which can make it more difficult (or forbidden) to walk around to sightsee.

Best time to go: Morning or evening, except for Sundays (unless you want to see Mass).

On Monday, many museums are a no-go

Palazzo Massimo, closed on Mondays

Most of Rome’s best museums close on Mondays, but are open every other day of the week. These include the Borghese Gallery, Palazzo Barberini, Palazzo Massimo, Crypta Balbi, MAXXI, Castel Sant’Angelo, and the National Gallery of Modern Art.

Best time to go: Tuesday through Friday; weekends tend to be more crowded than weekdays (not that that’s much of a problem at some of these places, like the Crypta Balbi).

While for lots of restaurants, it’s the day of riposo

Many of Rome’s restaurants have one “day of rest,” even though this is no longer government-mandated. This day is typically—but not always—Monday, and sometimes Sunday for lunch and/or dinner as well (particularly for restaurants that are more elegant or upscale; since Sunday is a big pizza night, pizzerias are usually open Sunday). Some restaurants, like popular Da Francesco near Piazza Navona, close Tuesday instead.

Best time to show up without a reservation or calling in advance: Wednesday or Thursday. Popular places tend to have a wait on Friday or Saturday nights, and if you’re heading somewhere on a Monday, you’ll want to call in advance (or look it up) to make sure they’re open.

There is a catacomb open every day (phew!)

Luckily, no matter what day you’re planning on going, at least one catacomb will be open. Just make sure it’s the right one! The catacombs of St. Sebastian close on Sunday, Santa Priscilla closes Monday, St. Domitilla closes Tuesday, and St. Callixtus closes Wednesday. They also close on most major holidays and over the lunch hour, so double-check the hours on the websites.

Best time to go to the catacombs: When they’re open—and not on the weekend, which tends to be more crowded.

And the Colosseum and forum are open daily, too

Rome’s ancient forum

Most of Rome’s most famous ancient sights are open daily, including the Colosseum, forum, Palatine, and Pantheon (although the Pantheon does close slightly earlier on Sundays, at 6pm rather than 7:30pm). The Baths of Caracalla also open daily (but close at 2pm on Mondays).

Best time to go: Anytime—although to avoid lines and crowds at the Colosseum and forum, opt to either be there first thing in the morning (i.e. 8:30am), or later in the day (many people clear out by 3pm).

And shops can be tough on Sunday, unless they’re big and new

Shops in the heart of Rome’s center—particularly on Via del Corso, around Piazza Navona, and near major sights—are open every day. Especially the chains. (But we know how I feel about those). More interesting and better Smaller shops, which don’t have the staff to open daily, tend to close one day a week; for many, this is Sunday. Lots of them stay closed through Monday morning. Many of the smaller stores also close midday, like churches.

Best time to go shopping: Monday through Saturday, outside of lunchtime; to avoid shopping crowds in high-trafficked areas, try not to shop in the evening or on weekends.

Want more tips about what to do in the Eternal City? Check out The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon, below, or through my site here!

Archaeological sites, Museums, Rome, Tips & tricks

Rome with Kids: 8 Ways to Make Sightseeing Fun (Or At Least Less Painful)

July 2, 2012 4 Comments

Want your kid in Rome to look as happy as this one? Then you’ll need to do some planning…

Sightseeing with kids in Rome? The bad news: Because of their skew towards art, history, and archaeology, some of Rome’s sights can seem less than immediately child-friendly. The good news: There’s enough here to keep kids entertained and happy. If you do it right. Truly.

Here are some things to keep in mind if you’re sightseeing in Rome with children.

1) Make sure you don’t stand in any lines

Kids hate standing in line as much as adults do. They’re just (usually) worse at hiding it. So make sure you avoid the lines at the top sights. At the Colosseum, use a RomaPass or get your ticket at the Palatine or Forum entrance; at the Vatican, cough up the extra €4 (yes, per person) and book your Vatican museums tickets in advance.

2) Know the limits of thy stroller

Okay, these stairs to Santa Maria in Aracoeli might be a little tough with a stroller…

I’ve said it before: Rome is a city best explored by walking. That might be fine if you have a super-energetic 10-year-old. But traveling with a toddler? You’ll definitely want a stroller.

Just bear in mind that Rome is a city of cobblestones and ruins. Translation: Any stroller you bring should have nice, sturdy wheels. It should also be light, because you’ll sometimes wind up having to fold it up and carry it—at the Colosseo metro stop, for example (there’s no elevator, just stairs), or at your B&B or hotel (many have tiny elevators, or sometimes no elevator at all).

Also keep in mind that you won’t always be able to use your stroller. They’re forbidden in St. Peter’s Basilica, for example (you can check them before you enter). So it might be a good idea to also bring a backpack child-carrier.

One thing not to worry about? Getting strollers on and off buses and public transportation. Yes, it can be daunting—but you’d be surprised at just how many strangers will help you with the task.

Make sure you have a sturdy stroller for all the cobblestones!

3) Hit up sights children will love

I promise that they exist. Some favorites:

Palazzo Valentini makes ancient Rome come alive in a way I haven’t seen in Rome before; because it’s very dark, which can scare little ones, it’s best for ages six and up.

I haven’t done this yet myself, but at Gladiator School, kids (and adults) can try their hand at being gladiators, donning their tunics and duking it out with foam swords. Talk about making history hands-on. Apparently, even toddlers can participate.

Exploring the “hidden” ancient ruins beneath Rome’s churches, like at San Nicola in Carcere or the Basilica of San Clemente, turns a church visit into an Indiana Jones-style adventure for older kids.

The underground of San Nicola in Carcere

For children who like the creepier side of things, the catacombs are as spooky as they get. You’re lucky if you see a bone, though (most were cleaned out by relics-seekers and grave-robbers years ago), so for that, head to the Capuchin Crypts, where the walls and ceilings are decorated with bones and the actual bodies of the deceased on display.

The “Mouth of Truth” is pretty goofy—it’s a possibly-ancient marble image of a face that gained worldwide fame after Audrey Hepburn stuck her hand in in Roman Holiday. And there’s always a line in high season. But I know I dragged my dad there when I was 13.

These days, Piazza Navona is essentially a breathtaking tourist trap. But the square does buzz with street performers and caricaturists, making it a draw for families. And during Christmas season, it’s home to Rome’s most famous Christmas market.

5) Find the kid-friendly parts of more “adult” sights

Like at the Vatican museums. Which—let’s be honest—can be tough with kids: There aren’t many places to sit, eat, or go to the bathroom, and unless you sprint through the long halls, it’s tough to get in and out in less than two hours, minimum.

Given that, one part you don’t want to miss? The Egyptian section, which even displays a 3,000-year-old mummy with her hair and toenails still preserved. (Ew!).

6) But remember that (almost) anything can be made interesting to kids

Raphael’s frescoes in the Chiostro del Bramante

I mean, yes, the finer points of Renaissance art are lost on most 6-year-olds. But there is always some way to bring it down to your child’s age level. (This is coming from someone who spent a childhood of being endlessly entertained in art galleries and historical museums. No, I’m not being sarcastic. And it’s due to my family, who seriously tried to always make sure I connected, somehow, with what I was looking at. Thanks, Mom!).

Case in point: Old Master paintings. Of saints. In a museum. Not something you’d assume was child-friendly. Right?

But maybe it can be. Maybe you can, say, find an art guide to the museum—a book in the bookstore, or even just the museum brochure—and your 7-year-old can try to find the “matches” of the images in the brochure with the paintings she sees on the wall.

Or maybe you and your 10-year-old can play a game of “name that saint,” since artists generally characterized different martyrs and saints in consistent ways (St. Jerome is usually old with a red hat and a lion nearby, St. Peter has the keys, St. Sebastian holds some arrows). Or maybe your 13-year-old will be intrigued by the gory stories of why the martyrs are depicted that way (St. Sebastian has arrows because… he was shot full of arrows during his martyrdrom!). Or maybe, if neither of you know, you can try to figure it out and retell what you think is going on in the painting.

Make this Pinturicchio painting (in the Borghese Gallery) into a game of “Name That Saint”!

Or maybe you just give your kid a sketchbook and your whole family spends 20 minutes sitting and drawing in front of a painting that catches your eye.

Seriously. You can make almost anything fun. And when all else fails, well, there’s always that coloring book/iPhone game you brought along.

7) Think about taking a family-friendly tour

Telling stories about saints and martyrs is a lot easier when you know the stories. Oh, you don’t?

That’s when a tour guide comes in handy.

A great, enthusiastic tour guide can bring art and sights to life, for both adults and kids. In Rome, one sights where I think that’s an especially valuable option is the “ancient city,” i.e. the Colosseum Palatine and Forum. After all, there’s so much storytelling potential here: The history of these sights is full of blood and gore, treachery and romance, pagan rituals and horrible punishments. And (did I mention?) it’s all true!

The forum: a little daunting for parents (and boring for kids) unless you plan it right

But if you don’t know the stories yourself, or if you have a dry audioguide, or guidebook, or tour guide, then all of that gets lost. And that’s a shame. So no matter what tour company you go with, just make sure their guides get top points for being exciting and enthusiastic.

I promise that after you’ve had a guide bring the ruins to life, your child will be psyched for the “ancient Rome” unit in school.

Another tour I’ve come across that’s perfect for kids is Walks of Italy’s Rome food tour with pizza-making class and gelato. Yes, these are the guys I used to blog for; they’re also the only tour company that offers a Rome food tour that includes not only tons of tastings and a market visit, but a hands-on pizza-making class. Pretty fun, especially for children.

8) Don’t discount Rome’s parks

The kid-friendly Villa Borghese

Rome’s parks offer, obviously, green space for kids to run around (or rest) in. And (bonus!) they often sneak in “cultural sites,” like ancient ruins or Renaissance villas, too.

If you’re near the Colosseum, for example, considering taking a rest or a picnic in the Villa Celimontana, a 16th-century estate turned public park that’s strewn with the remnants of ancient temples and palaces, including columns, statues and a temple altar. There’s even an ancient Egyptian obelisk inscribed to Ramses II from the 13th century B.C.

Near the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo? Head to the Villa Borghese, Rome’s answer to Central Park. It has fantastic museums, but also fountains, a (small) pond where you can rent boats, lots of shade, and the opportunity to rent those funny pedi-cabs you can pedal around the park. In Trastevere, the Villa Pamphili has plenty of space for little ones to run around.

Farther out, the Appian Way is a park where you can rent bicycles and bike along the 2,300-year-old Roman road, checking out spooky catacombs along the way. And the Park of the Aqueducts is a cool glimpse of how ancient Romans brought water into the city.

Rome, Tips & tricks

More Help Planning Your Trip to Rome

May 22, 2012 No Comments

If you're planning a trip to Rome, I hope Revealed Rome helps. But I know that navigating my 200+ posts this point can be a little overwhelming.

So here's help. I've created a guide to my most useful posts for planning a Rome trip. I'll be updating it as I continue to write new posts, so check back as you travel plan. (And remember that I have many, many more posts on the site, covering many more places, than I could include in this guide—so please don't hesitate to continue to explore the site on your own!).

And remember, if you just want to talk to me to get the most up-to-the-minute, personalized advice possible—on not just Rome, but all of Italy—I offer private, one-hour travel consulting sessions (much cheaper than a travel agent!).

Happy travel planning!

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