Gift Ideas for Italy Lovers: The Food Edition

GIFT guide for foodies
Looking for a gift for someone who loves food—especially Italian food? Then do them, and me, a favor: Don't get them a gift certificate to the Olive Garden or a gift basket of random, made-in-the-U.S. products that reflect little to nothing of Italian food culture. 

These days, there's no reason to. Thank modern technology. Even if you're not in Italy, you can buy authentic, Italian foods—including cheeses, meats, pastas, coffees, and more—that make fantastic gifts for foodies and Italophiles alike. 

Whether you're looking for a stocking stuffer, a single present, or some items to put together your own gift basket, here are some Italian food gift ideas to get you started. 

(This is the first of a series of holiday gift guides I'll be publishing!).

Stocking stuffers for the sweet-toothed

BaciOf Italy's many kinds of Christmas cakes, panettone the most famous. Originally from Milan, it's studded with raisins and candied fruit peels. Although it's best to get it fresh from a local baker, you can get it online if you have to.

Baci chocolates are so well-known in Italy, "Baci" is a common gelato flavor. And no wonder: They're a blend of milk chocolate and ground hazelnutes (dubbed gianduia), crowned with a hazelnut and covered in dark chocolate. In other words… I'm not sure there's a chocolate lover in the world who wouldn't want to see this box under their tree. Unless they were allergic to nuts.

The Italian spread Nutella has become a worldwide sensation, and with reason: This creamy, hazelnut-and-chocolate spread goes on, well, almost anything. Including your finger, straight out of the jar. Top off the topping with The Unofficial Guide to Nutella, a fun, easy-to-read, and recipe-filled book by my friends Sara Rosso and Michelle Fabio. 

Staples for anyone: Italian olive oil and balsamic vinegar

Top-notch Italian olive oil is always a great gift

Top-notch Italian olive oil, like this one from Fontanaro, is always a great gift

As any "foodie" knows, great food starts with great ingredients. And few staples are more important, whether you're cooking "Italian" or not, than a great olive oil or balsamic vinegar. Frankly, I don't like to cook. But if I just drizzle a little bit of a top-notch, extra-virgin olive oil (more on what that is in a moment) on pasta or a salad, somehow, I feel like I'm eating food whipped up by Mario Batali himself.  

So, when it comes to olive oil, choose your oil carefully. Extra-virgin is a must, but that's not enough, since fraud is rampant in the olive oil industry. Seventy percent of extra-virgin olive oils sold worldwide aren't extra-virgin, in fact, but are cut with lower-grade oils.

Some trustworthy places to buy olive oil include the selection of Italian, imported oils at Zingerman's or the Corti Brothers (who also, by the way, have some other amazing-looking, authentic Italian food products).

My favorite extra-virgin olive oil, though, is produced by my friend Alina at Fontanaro, an organic agriturismo on the Tuscan-Umbrian border run by Alina and her mother. Their oil is rated as among the best in Italy by guides like Gambero Rosso and Slow Food; it's also organic, delicious, and can be shipped anywhere in the world. And the prices couldn't be more fair. Email alina@fontanaro.it for more info, or check out Cleo's Fine Oils and Vinegars, which sometimes has Fontanaro's oils in stock. (And yes: This is the olive oil I have on my counter right now).

Pick your balsamic vinegar of Modena carefully, as well; you always want to make sure it has the "D.O.P." label, which means that it was, in fact, created in Modena, using the right grapes, the right process, and meeting the right quality standards. (In the U.S., we can call anything "balsamic vinegar of Modena," even if it never touched Italy). The award-winning Vigna Oro Balsamic Vinegar di Modena DOP is a good bet.

For caffeine addicts 

Christmas gift from ItalyDo right by the caffeine-lovers in your life. If you can't make it to Sant'Eustachio, the best spot for coffee in Rome, in person to scoop up some blends as a gift, you're still in luck: They now have blends available online. Pick from whole beans or ground coffee.

And to really have coffee the Italian way, don't forget the espresso maker. These little contraptions are small, cheap, and long-lasting, and they're an integral part of Italy's coffee culture: I have yet to enter a single Italian kitchen that doesn't have at least one of these sitting on the stove (and no American filter-coffee machine in sight!). 

For cheese and meat-lovers 

Christmas gifts from Italy for foodies

Give the carnivore in your life a real taste of Italy…

Although it seems a little random (you're going to give someone meats and cheeses? really?), this can be a great gift. A couple of years ago, I made up a basket of cured meats I'd brought from Italy for my stepfather, a real guy's guy; he loved it (and, needless to say, it disappeared quickly). 

Just remember that it's impossible to get cured meats, like prosciutto, as thinly-sliced as they would be at an Italian butcher. So to go a step beyond, consider giving an electric food slicer to go with that array of meats.

If you're not in Italy, and you can't find authentic, Italian meats and salamis at your local butcher (if you want the "real deal," always ask where they're sourced from), then check into ordering online. (As with all of these products, ensure that what you're buying is made in and shipped from Italy and, if applicable, protected by "D.O.P." or "I.G.P." status). Mortadella from Bologna might be where we got our "baloney" from, but yes, the real deal is a completely different (and tastier) story. For a less-known meat, speck from Alto Adige is a lightly-smoked, dry-cured ham from the Tyrolean region of Italy . My favorite, though—and this is something that's in my kitchen here in Rome right now—is the delicious standby, prosciutto di Parma.

FontinaFor cheese-lovers, an array of some of Italy's best cheeses can't go wrong. Some of my favorites include fontina from theValle d'AostaPecorino Romano from Rome, caciotta al tartufo from Umbriaricotta salata from Sicily, and, of course, the two most famous guys: fresh mozzarella di bufala from Campania (I promise, it's completely different than mozzarella back home) and Parmigiano Reggiano from Parma (also completely unlike that powdery stuff you get in the green cans in U.S. grocery stores). Yum!

Books for cooks

CookbookThis book hits shelves tomorrow, but it's already available for pre-order… and looks fantastic. The Encyclopedia of Italian Cooking, published by the editors of La Cucina Italiana magazine, features how-tos for every quintessential Italian cooking technique, from how to shape tortellini to how to recognize a San Marzano tomato. Some 500 recipes are included, too. A great gift for beginners to Italian cooking, or for those who want to brush up on their techniques. 

(Another nice gift idea, of course, is a subscription to La Cucina Italiana magazine).

Cookbook 2Or go for the bible of Italian country cooking. La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy got its start 50 years ago, when Italian scholars gathered to figure out how they could preserve traditional, Italian cooking in the face of so much change. The Italian Academy of Cuisine did research in hundreds of villages, getting recipes right from people cooking in front of their stoves, and gathered these 2,000 recipes, which include arancini di riso from Sicily, buridda (fish stew) from Liguria, and everything in between.

 For a cookbook of Italian recipes at their most authentic, check out the Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking. Don't expect any spaghetti and meatball recipes here: Instead, there are fantastic treatments of classics like ossobucco, polenta, gnocchi, risotto, and more.

I love the idea behind the beautifully-photographed The Italian Farmer's Table: Authentic Recipes and Local Lore from Northern ItalyIt gathers 150 recipes taken directly from agriturismi in northern Italy. In other words, it doubles as a cookbook… and as inspiration for anyone planning on visiting northern Italy and wanting ideas of where to go, what to eat, and even what agriturismi to stay in!

For winos wine-lovers

Wine, a great gift for Italophiles
Pair a bottle of excellent Italian wine with a little background reading for the recipient. One great place for wine-lovers to start is Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy, which covers Italy's wine-producing regions, identifies their most important wine styles, prodcuers, and vintages, and even includes recipes.  

Wine Map of Italyis, literally, a map—and any wine-lover will want to have it as a reference at hand, or even tacked to their wall. It includes Italy's DOC, DOCG and IGT wine zones, plus an index booklet.

Gambero Rosso's Italian Wines has always been the number-one way to sort out Italy's best vintages, from the rest. The Italian Wines 2012version is a little different than past ones, but wine enthusiasts will still want to have it on their shelves.

For those who like reading about food (almost) as much as eating it

BookHow Italian Food Conquered the World is a great look at, well, how Italian food conquered the world—or, more accurately, how it transformed as it moved from Italy into immigrant communities abroad. I've written about the book before.

Waverley Root's The Food of Italy is a classic; each chapter covers a different Italian region, with basics about the area's food culture and its most popular dishes. 

Probably the most fun of all of these reads, Delizia!: The Epic History of the Italians and Their Food is a well-written, fast-paced history of Italy—told through its food, from Renaissance banqueting halls to 19th-century Naples alleyways.

Olive oil's history isn't just thousands of years long… it's also full of scandal—perhaps not so surprising in an industry that has as much money in it as hard drugs (!). This book, Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil, started as a New Yorker article, and it's on my bookshelf Kindle as we speak. 

Liked this gift guide? Then make sure to check out the other ones I'll be posting soon!

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Announcing: Gift Guides for Italophiles

Italy gift guides
Looking for the perfect gift for someone who loves Italy? Starting tomorrow, I'm going to be running a series of guides on Italy gift ideas. These guides include both gifts that you can order to be shipped abroad, and gifts that you can procure if you're living here in Italy. So I'm hoping both Italophiles here in Italy, and elsewhere, will find them helpful!

(Update:Don't miss the 2014 Italy gift guides, including the best gifts for Italy-bound travelers and the finest Italian gifts on the web!).

The calendar:

Monday, November 12: Gifts for foodies, cooks, and coffee-lovers

Thursday, November 15: Gifts with a conscience: Spotlight on Libera Terra

Sunday, November 18: Gift ideas for culture vultures and history nerds

Wednesday, November 21: Gifts with a conscience: Spotlight on Italian artisans—whose work can be shipped abroad

Tuesday, November 26: Gift ideas for those traveling to Italy

Friday, November 30: A roundup of my favorite shops here in Rome for finding one-of-a-kind gifts 

Exhaustive? Yes. Helpful? I hope so!

 

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Now, Buy Skip-the-Line Colosseum Tickets Online—On Pierreci’s Sexy New Site

Buy skip the line Colosseum tickets onlineGood news for those hoping to dodge the line at the Colosseum and Roman forum: Now, you can buy skip-the-line tickets directly from Pierreci, in advance.

Before, your options for skipping the line at the Colosseum were as follows. First, you could go to the ticket desk at the forum or Palatine hill to get your combined Colosseum/forum/Palatine ticket; although this usually worked, it wasn't always foolproof (when friends visited this spring, we went to the Palatine window at noon and still had to wait for a half an hour). Second, could go through a third-party ticket-sales service online, which added a hefty booking fee. Or, third, you could book a tour with a reputable tour company (still something I recommend, since fully appreciating the scandalous, salacious stories behind Rome's ancient ruins can be tough on your own).

But now? It's even easier. Just go to Pierreci's new ticket booking portal for the Colosseum, scroll down to where it says "Purchase your ticket," and choose your option—online or (whooooa) by iPhone. (For the iPhone option, you have to download Pierreci's app).

Once you've reserved, you can either jot down the code and bring it to the reservation desk, or print your ticket off yourself. Either way, you don't have to stand in that absurd line wrapping around Rome's most depressing most popular sight.

It's €1.50 extra, per person, to reserve your ticket. The ticket itself is the same €12 combo job (forum, Palatine and Colosseum) that they've had for a couple of years now.

As an aside, Pierreci's new website is really, really slick. Is this a sign that Rome's tourism is emerging from the Dark Ages?

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Trenitalia or Italo Treno? The Verdict on Italy’s High-Speed Trains

Trying to decide on Trenitalia or Italo Treno? Been there. And having sampled both, I’ve definitely got an opinion.

I’ve always had a thing for Italy’s trains. No, not so much the regional trains, although they get the job done (and are cheap!). But the fast trains. Ask me how I want to get to Milan or Venice from Rome, and I’ve always replied with the Frecciarossa or Frecciabianca. (Even the names are pretty!).

But being loyal to Italy’s national rail service, at least when it comes to the Frecciarossa and Frecciabianca, gets expensive. If you’re booking last minute, like I tend to, you can expect to pay €85 and up for a 3 or 3.5-hour trip from Rome to Milan. (Book far enough in advance to take advantage of an Economy or Super Economy ticket, rather than the Base price that’s usually all that’s left by the time I get there, and that can drop to about €60).

So when I first heard about the new Italo Treno — nicknamed the “Ferrari train,” thanks to the fact that the company is headed by the president of Ferrari — I knew I had to try it. Italy’s first high-speed private rail service, with stops at major cities including Naples, Florence, Rome, Milan, and Venice, it was competitively priced. And it looked pretty luxurious.

Trenitalia or Italo Treno?
Even the “Smart” (basic”) car of the Italo Treno looks pretty, well, smart

I felt a little guilty, at first, even thinking of booking a ticket with Italo Treno. After all, Italy’s national rail service had been pretty good to me.

But Italo Treno was new, and shiny, and I kept hearing about it in the news. So when it first launched, back in the spring, I tried to book a ticket.

And was rejected.

In fact, for every date I tried, no seats were left. Italo Treno just wasn’t available.

I tried not to take it personally: After all, Italo Treno was in high demand. I was just one more person in line, eager to try it out. And, for its first few months, Italo Treno had only a handful of operating lines; it was stretched too thin.

A few months later, I tried again. This time, I had more success.

Last week, I booked a Rome-to-Milan trip the night before I had to leave; I had no problem getting a ticket in the “Smart,” or economy, class car. The price: €61. I returned a week later, with the same deal.

Trenitalia or Italo Treno
The interior of the “Smart,” or economy, car

The Frecciarossa and Italo Treno trains have a lot in common. But from my very first impression, even just over the internet, Italo Treno had the edge. For one thing, booking my seat seemed way easier. Trenitalia’s website is notoriously tough to navigate, even (or especially) in the “English” option. Italo Treno’s site is much simpler — although, to be fair, much of that is because there are way fewer destination options (with only 11 stations to stop at, a drop-down list makes sense… not so on the Trenitalia site!).

Both Trenitalia and Italo Treno let you get your ticket texted to your phone, for free — no need to print anything out or collect a ticket at the station.

Still, I knew it was easy to represent yourself in a positive light online. The real test would be what Italo Treno was like in person.

The first thing that struck me? How friendly Italo Treno was, and how caring. An Italo Treno worker, dressed in a crisp uniform, stood at the one corner where it might have been possible to get confused (was the platform left, or right?), simply to assure people they were headed in the right direction. And on the platform itself, every carriage had one or two young, professional-looking workers standing outside the doors, all in their uniforms, all smiling. 

As well as warm and welcoming, the train was beautiful, spotless, and stylish.  The windows were noticeably bigger than those on the Trenitalia trains, making the space feel airier and less crampled. (I didn’t notice much more seatroom, but both trips, I did have an empty seat next to me, which was just as nice).

High speed trains in Italy
The beautiful scenery on the Rome to Milan route — better appreciated with bigger windows!

When we got going, though, the most surprising perk was the noise reduction. Because the engine system is distributed throughout the whole train, and because the engines are on the undercarriage, the train is much quieter than others I’ve experienced. Instead of arriving at my destination exhausted, my brain tired of dealing with all that nonstop, ambient noise, I felt energetic and relaxed. That, alone, made the switch worth it.

I also loved having Wi-Fi, which worked beautifully… except in tunnels, despite Italo Treno’s promise that it would. (Each carriage has its own satellite antenna). Still during each 3-hour ride, I only noticed the internet stop working four or five times, and it went back on within a minute or two. I forgave Italo Treno for that one oversight. (It’s worth noting that the Frecciarossa also now has internet, but I haven’t tried it out yet).

So. Yes. Italo Treno, I think I’m in love. And I can’t wait until we get to meet again.

(Sorry, Frecciarossa. You’ll always be the reason why I first fell in love with trains in Italy. And I still think your name is prettier).

You can book your trip with Italo Treno here or (I haven’t forgotten you, Trenitalia!) your trip on a high-speed Frecciarossa or Frecciabianca here. For either one, look in the upper right-hand corner to change the language to English. And, yes, you can use a U.S. credit card to book your ticket on either site.

Also: how should I schedule my sightseeing in Rome?, a fun tour of Rome’s hidden ancient spots and what to do in Rome when you’ve done… everything.

Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Updated, Expanded and New for 2017, which includes many more tips and tricks like these in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

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Flower Buds, Autumn Leaves, Vintage and Artisanal

Vintage and artisanal clothing in Rome

Until recently, the weather has been unseasonably warm here in Rome—so I found myself pulling out this skirt-and-shirt combination. And then realized that, ta-da! It was another outfit that just so happened to be made up of only handmade or vintage items. (Yay!).

The accordion-fold skirt is from Pulp, a vintage store in Rome that just happens to be on my favorite shopping street. And the shirt is from Le Nou, that fantastic boutique where shirts, dresses, and more are handmade for prices that compete with those at the High Street shops. (And yes… Le Nou happens to be on the same street as Pulp).

By the way, if I didn't love Le Nou enough, when I tried on the shirt on the rack, it was too big and boxy. When I asked if they had another size, they didn't—but were more than happy to make a few snips and resew it, to the custom size I wanted, while I waited right there in the store.

Now that's service. 

Handmade shirt from Le Nou

And isn't the pattern cute?

Another handmade part of the outfit might surprise you. Because it's this necklace. Which I bought at Topshop.

Handmade necklace Topshop

I know, I know. I swore off chain stores for a year. But when I heard that Topshop was carrying a couple of handmade jewelry lines, I was curious. 

So, on my last trip to London, I checked out the huge flagship store at Oxford Circus. And I found this gorgeous necklace, part of the line Topshop is now carrying by MADE—a collection of jewelry and accessories all handmade in a fairtrade workshop in Nairobi. (If you're not planning a trip to the U.K. anytime soon, you can shop MADE online; they ship both to Europe and abroad).

I'm still avoiding chain stores. But I'm really happy that the big guys are starting to work some lines of handmade goods into their collections. Well done, Topshop.

Total outfit cost: €144.

Like it? Then check out another one of my recent handmade-and-artisanal outfits, and find out more about where I got those shoes!

 

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Rome by Vespa: Three Clips That Take You There

Forget the Colosseum: When it comes to a symbol of Rome and la dolce vita, the Vespa's where it's at.

Like most Rome fantasies, this one doesn't always have a ton of bearing in reality. Yes, almost everyone here has a scooter. But no, it's not usually an adorable, sparkling, vintage Vespa. Those are expensive… and (haven't you heard?), there's an economic crisi here!

Still. I've had Vespas on my mind lately, thanks to a travel story I've been working on (more on that later!). And, whether the vehicles used by most of my friends could come out of a scene from Roman Holiday or not, whipping around Rome on a scooter—even a banged-up, anything-but-beautiful one—remains one of my favorite ways to get from Point A to Point B in the city. It's hands-down the most convenient. And, yes, it can be romantic.

In homage to seeing Rome by scooter, here are three movie clips to transport you.

Forgive me for the last one. 

Ah, the face that launched a thousand dreams of Rome: Audrey Hepburn. In particular, Audrey Hepburn taking Gregory Peck's Vespa for a near-death experience adventure-filled spin. Although I'm hard-pressed to pick a favorite scene from this movie—which is, of course, the 1953 Roman Holiday—this might just have to be it.

And if you're wondering, yes, Rome's traffic is every bit as crazy today as it looks like it was then.

 

What Roman Holiday did for tourists' imaginings of Vespas and Rome, Nanni Moretti's Caro Diario did for locals. The first 10 minutes of the movie follows the protagonist on his sojourn through Rome's streets—not its main, all-too-famous piazzas and avenues, but the places known to locals, like the pretty neighborhood of Garbatella. And, because it's ferragosto in Rome, the streets are completely deserted.

When I looked up movie clips showing Vespas in Rome on YouTube, this came up. And while I'm kind of really embarrassed to include it (I promise, not being a 12-year-old girl, this is not a movie I have ever seen), I thought that the scene, while clearly sickly-sweet (and inaccurate: what Roman would ever say "This is Rome. Nobody knows how to drive"?), does a cute job of showing the sights in Rome's centro storico. They start at Piazza Farnese (and no, in real life you can't drive a scooter there), then move on to Via Nazionale (0:15), Piazza del Popolo (0:19), Via Nazionale again at Trajan's markets (0:28), the Palace of Justice (0:35), Via Giulia (I think) (0:40), Piazza della Repubblica (1:02), Pantheon (also not allowed) (1:11), Spanish Steps (1:18, and they must have filmed this at sunrise for it to be so empty).

And no, that route makes no sense whatsoever. But pretty sights, right? 

Also, I really hope Hilary Duff doesn't wind up with this Italian boy at the end of the film. Because picking-up-a-straniera-via-scooter, in more ways than one, would be the oldest trick in the book. (Oh Audrey, if you only knew what you'd started back in '53).

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How to Get from Fiumicino Airport to Rome (Updated for 2017)

The most romantic places in Rome

If you’re coming to Rome from abroad, you’ll probably be landing at the Rome Fiumicino airport. And by the time you get off your flight, you’ll be jet-lagged, exhausted, and anything but “switched on.” No matter how excited you are to be in Rome.

That’s why you have to have an idea of how you’ll get from the airport to your Rome hotel before you land. Because otherwise, that taxi driver who (illegally) approaches you at the terminal to offer you a ride, when your hands are full of bags and you’ve realized your phrasebook Italian isn’t enough to ask someone where you should go, might seem tempting.

Less so 80 or 90 euros later.

Luckily, getting from Fiumicino into the center of Rome by public transport is pretty straightforward. You just need to know what your options are in advance!

Nota bene: If you have a ton of luggage, I’d recommend booking a transfer or taking a taxi. That’s because, when you get into the city on your train or bus, you’ll probably have to transfer to another form of public transport. Not only does that often involve some walking, but even at some metro stations—like the Colosseo metro stop—there’s no escalator or elevator whatsoever, only stairs. And if you’re in three people or more, it’s a no-brainer: splitting a taxi winds up being almost as cheap as the train.

The tourist train “Leonardo da Vinci Express” train

How to get to Rome from Fiumicino airport
The Leonardo da Vinci Express takes you right to Termini—which can be a good option, but isn’t always the best

The train station at Fiumicino is located within short walking distance of the baggage claim. Just follow the signs for the train station, or ask anyone at the airport. Most travelers planning on taking the train into central Rome opt for the Leonardo da Vinci Express train. It goes directly from the airport to Termini station, making no stops, and takes half an hour. (From Termini, you have to get to your hotel on your own, however—and if you opt for a cab, it’s likely to be another €10 to €15. So always consider whether it’s just cheaper to take a cab or transfer directly from the airport, instead!).

Because it does go to Termini, unlike the other train, then if you know you need to take the metro line A to your hotel, this is a good bet. Still, locals know better than to take the Leonardo da Vinci. Why? Because it costs €14 each way—and, instead, you could just take…

The regional train (treno regionale)

The normal, regionale train leaves from the same station at Fiumicino, also takes a half an hour, and costs just €8 each way. However, it doesn’t go to Termini. Instead, it makes several stops in Rome, including at Stazione Ostiense—probably the most useful if you’re staying in the centro storico. 

To get from Ostiense station to the center, either hop a cab outside the station or follow the signs for the metro; a 5-minute walk brings you to the Piramide metro stop on the B line. From there, it’s two stops to the Colosseo metro stop or four to Termini, where you can switch to the A line.

If you’re staying in Testaccio or near the Colosseum, are planning on getting a cab from the station in Rome to your hotel anyway, and/or are on a tight budget, this is a good bet.

The bus

Several buses run from Fiumicino to the city center. They take a little under an hour, depending on traffic, but are a cheaper option than the train. They include the SIT bus shuttle, Terravision bus (run by Ryanair), COTRAL bus, and ATRAL-Lazio bus. Each costs about €5, each way, and most go right to the Termini train station.

The taxi (with, yay, a flat rate!)

How to get to Rome from Fiumicino airport
You could always take a taxi…

There is a flat rate to go from the Fiumicino airport to the city center: €48, including all luggage and any extra charges.

As soon as you get in a taxi at the airport, therefore, make sure your driver does not run the meter and only pay that amount at the end. It is illegal for your driver to charge you more.

By the center of Rome, by the way, I (and the city of Rome) mean anything within the Aurelian walls. So if you’re staying anywhere near Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, or Colosseum, you’re good. If you have any doubt about whether the hotel is in the centro storico, ask your hotel in advance; if it’s outside of the historic center, your driver has the right to run the meter and to charge you supplements instead of the flat fare. (And probably will).

Booking a transfer in advance

Finally, you can, of course, book a transfer with a company in advance; there are a million and one Rome transfer companies (and tour companies that offer transfers). The price is generally €65 and up, but if you don’t want to deal with the stress of making sure a taxi won’t screw you over, and you just want to be able to relax knowing that a driver will be waiting for you, with your name on a sign, right when you get out of baggage claim, then this is the option for you.

Uber

Yes: the app taking over the world’s cities has made it to Rome (much to the consternation of taxi drivers). Although the basic idea of this ride-sharing app is similar to other cities, there’s one big difference. Rome doesn’t offer UberX or the other lower-priced services; it only has the higher-end services: UberBLACK, UberLUX and UberVAN. That means that, often, taking an Uber is as expensive as (or more expensive than) taking a taxi. But it also means that drivers often aren’t “normal” people picking up some cash on the side, but rather professional drivers, which is a benefit. From Ciampino airport (which has WiFi, so you can book an Uber using the Uber app on your phone when you arrive), it should be about €40 into the center, although, as always with Uber, it depends on pricing and availability at that time. (You get a fare estimate before you book). Update, October 2017: The legal status of Uber in Italy has been changing as of late — it was banned in April, then re-legalized in May — so before you count on it, double-check by Googling it online.

Coming from Ciampino airport, instead? Here is how to get to the Rome center from Ciampino.

Liked this post? You’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Updated, Expanded and New for 2017, which includes many more tips and tricks like these in more than 200 information-packed — but never overwhelming! — pages. It’s available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

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Fairtrade for Fall: The Perfect Autumn Outfit

Shopping in Rome artisanal finds
This is not a fashion blog.

However. I’ve made a  big stink theme out of supporting Rome’s artisans and independent stores. As I’ve explored the non-chain-store side of Rome shopping, I’ve found some pretty great shops. And more and more readers have been requesting for me to share some of my finds with them.

So: I’ll be doing so more frequently. Starting with this outfit, which I bought just last week.

Burgundy fairtrade dress in Rome

The dress is handmade, fairtrade, and made from organic cotton. (I wish the pictures could show just how soft and comfortable the material is!). I found it at Altromercato, the fairtrade store near Piazza del Popolo, on Via di Ripetta 262; the store was under renovations for a while, but just reopened.

(By the way, as well as clothing and jewelry, Altromercato sells toiletries and even food. I walked out not only with this dress, but with an armful of organic pasta and sauce from the anti-Mafia organization Libera Terra).

The shoes, which are handmade, suede, and super comfortable, are from Barrila Boutique, another store near Piazza del Popolo. The store is located at Via di Babuino 34. 

Barrila boutique handmade shoes

And, no, I couldn’t decide between the blue and the pink, so—especially because I can never find shoes I like—I scooped up both pairs.

Total outfit cost: €104.

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