Contrary to popular belief, it's not always that easy to just "happen" on good food in Rome. Which is why I'm a fan of Testaccio. This fascinating—and increasingly trendy—neighborhood sits just southwest of the Aventine hill and Circus Maximus. It also happens to have some fantastic restaurants and bakeries, not to mention a couple of kick-ass markets.

That's why I wrote about Testaccio for Travel + Leisure's April 2013 food issue. (Now online here).

Check it out to find out more about the new Testaccio market, an artisanal birreria, top-notch Sicilian bakery, and more. I only wish I could have included more of my favorite food stops (like Cafe Barberini for coffee and cornetti and Da Bucatino for a traditional Roman meal), but the word count is what it is!

Find the Travel + Leisure food issue on newsstands now.