Rome Archives - Page 15 of 31

The Appian Way, Rome: Why You Need to Add It to Your List (Updated for 2019)

April 4, 2012 10 Comments

The Appian Way often gets overlooked by visitors to Rome. And that’s an extraordinary shame. A stroll on the Appian Way (or, to Italians, Via Appia Antica) is more than a mere walk. It’s a time machine that takes you back to ancient Rome, a way to experience the Italian countryside without leaving the city, and a twist on a passeggiata all in one.

The Appian Way was built all the way back in 312 B.C. (hence why Italians call it Via Appia Antica). And it was crucial. The first road linking farther-flung parts of the Roman empire with the capital, it first ran to Capua, just north of Naples. Since it allowed Romans to transport soldiers and supplies, the Appian Way proved integral to the Romans conquering the Samnites of southern Italy. In 191 B.C., the Romans extended the road all the way to Brindisi, in modern-day Puglia.

The really cool part?

You can still walk on the Appian Way today. On stones ancient Romans would have walked on. Again, it’s called Via Appia Antica for a reason.

Or even take a bike ride. Check out my video of bicycling down the Appian Way (and hold onto your handlebars — those paving stones make for a rocky ride!).

Not to mention that the Appian Way boasts ancient catacombs, tombs, mausoleums, and even fragments of villas that once would have lined this all-important entrance to the city — a way for Romans to flaunt their wealth and status.

But let’s put the Appian Way today aside for a moment. Even if this were just a dirt road — no ruins, no ancient stone paving — it would give you shivers to walk on this path. Let’s just think about what’s happened here:

Spartacus, the famous leader of Rome’s largest slave revolt, was crucified on the Appian Way along with 6,000 of his followers in 71 B.C. Just imagine the bodies lining the 125 miles between Rome and Capua. Shudder.
St. Peter took this road out of Rome, fleeing Nero’s persecutions, in 64 A.D. According to legend, he saw Christ — crucified years earlier — coming into the city as he left, provoking his famous phrase “Domine, quo vadis?” (Lord, where are you going?), a question immortalized in the name of the church built on the spot.
In the villas along the road, early Christian converts allowed their fellow Christians to worship and, ultimately, to be buried beneath their gardens; catacombs sprung up along (and beneath) the Appian Way of Rome.

That’s all, of course, aside from the fact that this was a busy thoroughfare that would have been used by soldiers and plebeians, patricians and consuls, throughout the Roman empire’s existence. In other words: Yes, Caesar walked here.

And in a lot of ways, the Appian Way hasn’t changed much. As it would have been in earlier times, the Via Appia remains a chic address, one that shows wealth and breeding. Villas are still set off from the main road, gated, just as they would have been 2,000 years ago.

Of course, there are also lots of sights to see along the Appian Way, too.

Like the Tomb of Cecilia Metella (shown below). The best-preserved tomb along the Appian Way, this was built for the daughter-in-law of Marcus Licinius Crassus — a guy who suppressed Spartacus’ slave revolt, entered the First Triumvirate with Pompey, and who was the richest man in Roman history. In the early 14th century, Pope Boniface VIII acquired the tomb for his family, and it was turned into the fortress you see today.

Or the Villa dei Quintili, a huge villa built by the wealthy Quintilii brothers in the 2nd century… so huge that, when it was first excavated, locals thought it must have been a town. In fact, the villa was so incredible that Emperor Commodus put its owners to death — just so he could get his own hands on it.

Or the Circus of Maxentius (below). Erected in the early 4th century, its fragments still give an idea of the grandeur of what was once the second-largest circus in Rome, after only the Circus Maximus.

Or the Capo di Bove, an archaeological site that’s just a sliver of an enormous property; the villa was built in the 2nd century by Herodes Atticus, the tutor to future emperors Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, and Aspasia Annia Regilla, his aristocratic (and 25-years-younger) wife. The excavations today reveal what would have been the villa’s thermal baths, complete with original flooring and mosaics.

A murder mystery is hidden here, too: Annia was kicked to death at eight months pregnant… and it’s thought her husband may have been responsible for her murder.

Or the Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le Mura, the church of the Catacombs of St. Sebastian. It’s most fascinating — at least to me — for having a Bernini sculpture no one seems to know about: the “Salvator Mundi,” a bust of Christ that art historians think was Bernini’s very last work. (It’s on the right as you enter the church, beside the Relics Chapel).

That’s not to mention the catacombs themselves, including the Catacombs of Callixtus and the Catacombs of St. Sebastian.

Still not convinced? I’ll say it again: If you can’t tell from the photographs, the Appian Way is a peaceful, surprisingly rural-feeling part of Rome. It helps that after the first part of the Via Appia, the road becomes closed to most traffic, so it’s perfect for pedestrians.

And it’s not far. The best way to get to the start of the Via Appia is to take a bus. From the Colosseum, for example, it’s just 15 minutes on the #118. The 118 also stops close to the bike rental at Via Appia Antica 42, if you’d rather bike than stroll. (If you’re using Google Maps, don’t just put in “Appia Antica”, which takes you to a random spot far down the road. Instead, put in “Appia Antica regional park” as your destination).

Just remember not to take your stroll on a Sunday if you want to enter the sites, as that’s when the catacombs are closed.

Also: two facts about ancient Rome you probably didn’t know, why you should visit Rome’s only pyramid and why you might want to visit Naples.

If you liked this post, you’ll love The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon or through my site here! I’m also free for one-on-one consulting sessions to help plan your Italy trip.

Rome, Shopping

Rome’s Best Shopping Streets: Via del Boschetto

March 26, 2012 6 Comments

Looking for the best shopping in Rome? Particularly if you’re in search of one-of-a-kind (and handmade! and stylish!) clothing and jewelry, beeline to Via del Boschetto, located an easy walk from Via Nazionale, the Roman forum, or the Colosseum.

In the heart of Rione Monti, one of Rome’s most ancient and hip neighborhoods, Via del Boschetto is packed with top-notch boutiques, artisans and ateliers, selling everything from hip clothing to handcrafted jewelry to vintage bags. The biggest surprise? At many of the stores, the pricetags are on par with what you’d find at a chain store—yet another reason to shop artisanal in Rome.

And remember: Over the next few months, I’m going to be focusing more on Rome’s unique stores, including with posts on some of my other favorite shopping streets in Rome, so stay tuned.

Now, let’s go shopping…

Tina Sondergaard, Via del Boschetto 1/D: The clothes at this tiny shop, all designed by Danish import Sondergaard (above), are hand-stitched and top-quality. The fabrics come from just outside Florence. Along with her whimsical-but-classy pieces, Sondergaard will create items by request—she’s made everything from costumes to wedding dresses in the past. But even her bespoke work won’t break the bank: She recently custom-made a cocktail dress for €200. Tel: +39 3343850799.

Kokoro, Via del Boschetto 75: Items at this “clothing laboratory” (above) are up-to-the-minute (items change weekly) and, well, frankly fabulous, with lots of play with color, prints, and texture (hello, suede leggings!). All the items, which include purses and accessories, are original Kokoro creations. And the prices are more than reasonable. Blouses are about €40, dresses €70. Who said shopping artisanal had to cost a ton? (P.S.: Kokoro also has another location on Via della Chiesa Nuova). Tel: +39 0664760251.

C.A.M., Via del Boschetto 76: The store’s name—which stands for “Classe Artigiana Monti”—gives you an idea of what the store is all about. Since 2009, Valentina Maroni and Giorgio Bacci, who met studying at the Academy of Fine Art (ABAV), have been designing and sewing their own creations here… right in the workshop in the back (below). Their designs, including lots of blouses and dresses, make classic, clean shapes contemporary with fun colors and textures, including, right now, lots of hip metallics. (Although C.A.M. is where Le Gallinelle used to be, it’s a completely separate store). Tel: +39 0648907175.

Il Giardino del Tè, Via del Boschetto 107: This tea shop, the first in Rome, has been a fixture in Monti since 1998—a feat in a city of cappuccino-lovers. Even if you’re not a big tea-drinker, it’s hard not to be sucked in by the aroma. Teas range from oolong and Turkish apple to hibiscus and walnut chocolate; jams and, yes, even some coffees are on sale, too. But what I’m really lusting after is some of the china on display (below). +39 0689535176.

Eliodoro, Via del Boschetto 109: Peek into the display window at Eliodoro and just try not to salivate. Precious gems as big as lemon drops make the rings look like they were stolen off of a very rich (and very hip) cardinal’s hand, while the earrings, necklaces and bracelets strike a similar classic-gone-chunky note. Rings start around €150. Tel: +39 064827486.

Le Nou, Via del Boschetto 111: This is the kind of hole-in-the-wall you could easily pass by. Don’t! The hip folks behind Le Nou design, and then handsew, trendy creations right there in the store lab. Lest you think getting something handcrafted makes it expensive, just wait: blouses start at €30. Yep, you heard me. The same price as at Zara. Tel: +39 0631056334.

Ashanti, Via del Boschetto 117: In the 12 years that jeweller Raffaelle Cinzio has been running this jewelry-shop-cum-art-space, he’s received serious accolades, like a mark of excellence for artisanship from the region of Lazio. Not that it’s any surprise: Raffaelle’s jewelry, handcrafted from silver, bronze, and gold in his workspace at the back of Ashanti Galleria, manages to be both exquisite and funky, much of it with a cool, androgynous tone (above). Contemporary paintings by artists, most of them Italian, hang on the walls. Sound too upmarket for your wallet? Actually, Raffaelle’s jewelry starts at €45 a pop, and the works of art at €100. Tel: +39 064884203.

Pulp, Via del Boschetto 140: This is a store with a serious cult following—and with reason. The boutique (above) sells not only colorful, funky vintage clothing and accessories, but vintage pieces that have been reworked by the owner, Fabrizio, to be both a) better-quality (no holes or tears here!) and b) even more hip. That’s not to mention the clothes that Fabrizio designs and creates from scratch. The overall effect? Fun (and sustainable!) fashion at a reasonable price. There’s a big collection of bags, shoes, and sunglasses here, too (below). +39 06485511.

Galleria d’Arte di Jullo, Via del Boschetto 141: Animal-lovers find themselves arrested by the display of this small, elegant gallery with its lovely oil paintings, sketches, and engravings of wild horses—all original creations by Italian artist Roberto di Jullo. Tel: +39 1919027.

Fabio Piccione, Via del Boschetto 148: Walking into this store is like diving into Grandma’s treasure chest. Jewelry from every decade of the 20th century have been repaired by the owner, Fabio Piccione, and resold at excellent prices. For costume-jewelry and vintage junkies, there’s no better bet for bangles. Tel: +39 064741697.

Want more tips about where to find the best shopping, and much more, in the Eternal City? Check out The Revealed Rome Handbook: Tips and Tricks for Exploring the Eternal City, available for purchase on Amazon, below, or through my site here!

Expat extras, Rome, Shopping

Quitting that Nasty Chain-Shopping Habit… in Rome

March 21, 2012 9 Comments

I've set a new goal: For the next year, when shopping for clothing or accessories in Rome, I'm only buying handmade or preworn.

And I'll be sharing what I discover with you. That means that, over the next few months, I'm going to be writing about artisanal stores around Rome—including what streets to hit up for Rome's best (unique, great-value, and no-chain) shopping, and blog posts on some of my favorite artisans.

If this sounds niche, or like a topic only for those of us who live in Rome, I don't mean it to be. Travelers to Rome often ask me what they should buy as a souvenir or gift; I can't think of a more priceless memento than, say, a handmade leather passport holder, or a handcrafted ring reminiscent of ancient Rome. Even if it costs more than a made-in-China "Rome, Italy" T-shirt, it'll last longer, feel more special, and bring you into contact with a Roman artisan, perhaps even letting you see how it was made. (Plus, these handcrafted goods aren't always pricier than the factory-made stuff. But more on that later).

Still curious why I've made the decision to avoid chain store shopping in Rome?

Here's why.

I want to support Rome's artisans—not the stores I can see in Any Other City, U.S.A./Canada/Europe

One of my favorite things about Rome is its artisans (above: Anna Preziosi at Silice, an artisanal glassmaker). I love seeing sewing machines in clothing shops. I love that there are still picture-frame makers and basket weavers here. It adds a sense of diversity within, and uniqueness to, Rome that simply wouldn't exist if H&M and Zara replaced every atelier and Pier One took over every picture-frame shop. It makes walking around—and shopping—fun.

Plus, when I grab something off a rack in a big store, I always feel like I'm simply "acquiring." Keeping up with the trends. Purchasing a necessity. You know—consuming. But getting something handmade? Picking it out with the help of the person who crafted it? Getting to see the smile on their face at you being so happy with the product? Well, call me a sucker, but that's ideal. Not to mention…

Right now, Italy can use my dollars more than a multinational corporation

'Nuff said.

My relationship with big chain stores is one-sided

So, in general, I've tried to avoid chain stores in Rome. Except for one: Zara. Open my closet, and you'll still see so many clothes from the Spanish label's line, I could practically open my own branch. (Not that Rome needs another one—there are three on Via del Corso alone!). When their Italian flagship opened on Via del Corso, I was thrilled. And then, this winter, I stopped by—an all-too-frequent habit—and, as I browsed, accidentally knocked down a hanger from a pole overstuffed with clothing. I picked it up and, rather than replace it and recreate the problem for someone else, set it on a table. One of the shop workers beelined over. "Oh," he said in Italian, "so you knock things down for me to pick up, do you? Is that how it goes?" I looked at him, speechless. "Right," he continued. "Yep, I see. I just clean up after you. Oh, that's great! That's really great! Thanks so much!".

That's when I realized. My addiction to chain-shopping? It wasn't just bad for my wallet. It was bad for my emotional health. I was giving my complete loyalty to… a corporation that didn't care less.

If I wouldn't do that in a relationship, why would I do it with my hard-earned money?

And so is their relationship with everyone else

Of course, a quick Google search can show that many of these big, beloved brands don't only not care about you (they have so many other millions of shoppers!)—they also don't care about the people they employ. Zara recently was penalized for the terrible conditions of one of its factories in Brazil. It's no secret that Forever 21 is one shady business, running sweatshops both at home and overseas, and, by blatantly ripping off designers and artists, breaking so many copyright laws it's faced more than 50 copyright lawsuits… all while proselytizing Christianity to its employees and printing Bible verses on their shopping bags! Even Urban Outfitters—which, from their clothing's urban trendiness, you'd think would be all about planet-saving hipster ideals—has no labor guidelines; the International Labor Rights Forum accuses the store of using child labor in Uzbekistan.

I don't care what label is sewn into a factory-made good when it's finished. It's still factory-made (read: not high-quality)

Big-theme issues aside, there's another good reason to get away from factory-made goods: the quality. I don't just mean for the cheapie stores, like H&M. I mean for the upmarket stores, too. I recently purchased an expensive bag from Baldinini, an upscale Italian store, that promptly lost its dye. The store sent it back to the factory to be repaired; it was returned to me and the same thing happened again. When they let me trade that bag for another, within a month, the strap of the new bag had started tearing off. They repaired the bag again. And three months later? The outside pocket started ripping right off the bag.

Turns out, when you're paying €300 for a bag, you're still paying for assembly-line production and factory-level quality. Just more for it.

So there you have it. Ciao, chain stores. I'll see you around

Of course, I know the whole issue is complicated. I know that all of these issues have to do with globalization, and the modern economy, and outsourcing, as well as the particular decisions made by these particular brands. And I don't mean to romanticize an artisan-filled past: Obviously, factories and machines have made life much easier and cheaper for everyone First-World consumers.

But, just as I think we lack a crucial understanding and awareness of what we're eating when we consume food that's traveled thousands of miles from its origins, been repackaged, marketed, and sold out of season… so do we all lose something when we only buy products delivered far away from their source of creation.

We lose the awareness that, for the product to be so cheap, very cheap labor was involved. We lose knowing how many hands it passed through to get to us (and how many of those people touching it were involved with the black market and the Mafia—just read Saviano's Gomorra if you're curious). We lose a sense of responsibility for how it was manufactured, why, and what it took to get it to us (i.e. thousands of miles of petroleum-heavy shipping and trucking).

What do you think? Those in Rome, have any artisans for me to try? And anyone want to join me on my year-long effort?

Food & drink, Rome

Rome’s Most Roman Restaurant… But Forget the Checkered Tablecloths: Fraschetteria Brunetti

March 5, 2012 1 Comment

When I first walked into Fraschetteria Brunetti*, a stone’s throw from Piazza del Popolo, I thought all of my senses were under assault.

If the bright-red walls and yellow tablecloths weren’t enough, they were covered in notes and hand-drawn pictures left by particularly appreciative (or drunk) clientele. Tables were jammed so closely together, and so packed—with people who kept jumping up and down to go out for smoke breaks or to call friends on their telefonini—that elbow-room wasn’t so much a commodity as something nobody had ever heard of, never mind required.

And then there was the noise. Want to have a conversation with your dining companion? Nah. Between the blaring pop and the equally-loud diners, you might as well be whispering at a discoteca.

If all of that sounds annoying… it was.

It was also completely, quintessentially—and, yes, endearingly—Roman.

Forget checkered tablecloths. If you want to experience “authentic Rome”—the Rome of young men shouting “OH, bell-ohhh” at their friends and of girls wearing Nike Airs and shiny jackets, the Rome of youth and fun and noise, of Romanaccio and worn-out, smoke-spitting scooters—then this is the place to come.

What’s that? The food, you say? You want me to write about the food?

Right. The food. In the celebration going on around me, I almost forgot to order. Never mind eat.

The food is… fine. There’s a cheap, fixed-price lunch menu from Mondays to Fridays—€9 for a primo, or for an antipasto and a secondo, each with a drink, coffee, and bread. Otherwise, an enormous antipasto of meats and cheeses came to €10; pastas are €10, and main courses €12—good prices for the area and for the amount of food (the portions were huge), less-good for the quality (granted, I did order a pasta with sausage and broccoli, but it was even greasier than I’d expected).

But perhaps the huge portions and the oiliness were all a part of the strategy. It seemed like at least three-quarters of the other diners were here to eat away their hangovers or, alternately, to keep the party going. (To be fair, it was early afternoon on a weekend. It might be far more staid on a weekday. Although the exuberant scrawls from former diners, hanging all over the restaurant, make me think it’s always like this).

Want to check the place out for yourself? Just make sure you bring your humor. After all, the Rome you’re diving into is “authentic”—but it might not be the one you’ve been picturing. And note: We did not receive a fiscal receipt here (just another way this place was super-Roman…). If you go, make sure you request a ricevuta fiscale.

Fraschetteria Brunetti is located at Via Angelo Brunetti 25b, right near Piazza del Popolo. Phone: +39 06 3214103.

*I’ve linked to the restaurant’s website for information’s sake, but I’m flabbergasted by the photos. Is that really what the place looks like without all the people packed inside? It’s almost… downright… sober-looking!

Beyond Rome, Rome

Need Advice on Your Trip to Rome and Italy? Now Available for One-on-One Chats

March 3, 2012 No Comments

I love sharing my insider's tips for traveling to Rome and Italy, from the most fascinating sites to most pernicious scams, best day trips to top ways to save money. And, as well as publishing on my blog, I have been—and will always—be happy to respond to readers' emails with even more tips and advice.

But I can sometimes get behind on those emails. And, at the same time, I know that many readers would much rather just sit down and talk with me, not have to type everything out. Besides: If you talk as fast as I do (hello, East Coast upbringing), you can cover a lot more territory in an hour chatting than an hour writing.

So, starting now, I'm offering one-on-one consulting sessions on travel to Rome and Italy. (You can book now; sessions themselves will start on March 20). For sessions that take place between March 20 and April 20, I'm providing a 40% discount on my normal price.

It's your chance to pick my brain on, well, everything Italy-related. For example, I can tell you:

where to eat: why you should never count on Tripadvisor or a guidebook to find the best and most authentic spots, what websites I use to find new restaurants in Italy, my favorite restaurants in Rome and elsewhere, and general rules of thumb for how to avoid touristy spots
where to stay: why some of Italy's "best hotels" don't really merit their €250-and-up price tags, how to find the best-value accommodation in Italy, my favorite places to stay in Rome and elsewhere, how to use and what to know about apartment rental websites, and the best-kept secret in rewarding budget accommodation in Italy
how to get off the beaten path: the most rewarding sites in Rome, and the most rewarding towns and regions in Italy, that hardly anyone knows about
how not to get ripped off: when to be on your guard in Italy, how to tell if your restaurant bill is right or not, and how to deal with awkward situations where you think you've been overcharged
how to get around: why you shouldn't necessarily rent a car and drive around Italy, what the alternatives are, and the cheapest way to get around Rome on public transport (no, it's not the RomaPass!)

Intrigued? Find out more information here.

And don't worry: I'm still writing, still blogging, and still answering those emails. Just think of this as just one more trip-planning option in your arsenal!

Rome, Tips & tricks

How to Travel Green in Rome

March 1, 2012 No Comments

Don’t let the moniker “Eternal City” fool you: Rome is changing, and not always for the better. Chain stores are replacing artisans’ shops, restaurants are cutting costs by buying low-quality, frozen ingredients shipped in from afar, and pollution is eating away, literally, at ancient monuments and Renaissance palazzos.

Luckily, even as a temporary traveler to Rome, there’s something you can do about it. Actually, a few things. Bonus: These tips—from staying at a boutique B&B instead of a cookie-cutter, corporate hotel, to eating the fresh, local food that Rome is known for—will make your trip more rewarding and fun, too. I promise.

Check out my tips at my guest post over at Traveling Greener’s Rome Green Guide.

Accommodation, Rome

The Most Romantic Hotels in Rome

February 10, 2012 2 Comments

The most romantic hotels and B&Bs in Rome–perfect for a honeymoon or other romantic break!

Planning a honeymoon in Rome… or simply looking for a romantic break? Here's my list of the eight of the most romantic Rome hotels!

Of course, one person's amore-inspiring room is another person's crazy-maker. So let's break it down. If your idea of romance means….

Knights, turrets and damsels:

Then stay at: Hotel Campo de Fiori (above and top left). Located in a Renaissance-era palazzo right on Campo de Fiori (luckily, given the piazza's popularity with late-night carousers, all the windows are fully soundproofed), the boutique hotel's 23 rooms come with the kinds of details that'll make you feel like you've fallen into a fairytale—think velvet headboards, elaborate tapestries, wood-beamed ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and ornate gilt frames, even for the flat-screened televisions. As with most Rome hotel rooms, the standard rooms aren't particularly spacious, and they tend to be on the dim side. But that's all part of the Olde Worlde romance. Doubles start at €150 a night. Via del Biscione, 6. +39 0668806865.

Or: Hotel Manfredi Suite in Rome (above). This 2-year-old hotel hides in an 18^th-century palazzo on artsy Via Margutta. Rooms aren’t big (they start at 140 square feet), but with their deep colors, ornate wallpaper, and elaborate gold frames, they still manage to feel nearly regal. For more space, opt for a deluxe, which starts at 215 square feet—or live like a king in a 430-square-foot junior suite. Doubles start at €150 a night. Via Margutta, 61. +39 063207676.

Sexy times:

Then stay at: Spagna Royal Suite. This brand-new boutique hotel has details so sensuous, they'd be ridiculous—if they weren't so cool. Think unusual features like an in-room steam sauna or mosaic Jacuzzi, not to mention lots of play with textures and lighting, with everything from leather to snakeskin to gold gilt showing up on the walls. Rooms start at €200 a night. Via Mario de’ Fiori, 3. +39 0669923793.

Or: Suite Sistina (above). At this little boutique hotel, tucked behind an almost-anonymous door on the street that runs from the top of the Spanish Steps, every detail sets the mood, from the silk sheets to velour throws to the Bang & Olufson stereos. Some of the rooms have particularly sexy touches, like Jacuzzis right in the bedroom or big round beds. Doubles start at €170 per night. Via Sistina, 53. +39 0620368380.

Five-star sunsets—and service:

Then stay at: Hotel Palazzo Manfredi (above). On the rooftop of this 9-year-old boutique hotel, watch the sun set over the Colosseum while savoring a meal (white truffle-scented creme brulee, anyone?) in the upmarket restaurant “Aroma.” The 16 rooms run “European-sized,” but boast all the luxe amenities, from Nespresso machines to creative lighting. Wi-Fi is free, and iPads are lent to guests, too. The biggest sell, though, remains the view: Six rooms look out at the Colosseum, six see the lovely Parco di Traiano with its ruins, and three view a street lined with 17^th-century buildings. Doubles start at €260 a night. Via Labicana, 125. +39 0677591380.

Or: Hotel Raphael. Located just off Piazza Navona, the 5-star Hotel Raphael has set Rome’s standard for elegance since its 1963 opening. Traditional rooms feature tapestry hangings and velvet curtains; if your tastes run modern, ask for one of the 2^nd– or 3^rd-floor rooms, which were redesigned by famous architect Richard Meier. Regardless of the room, enjoy amenities like the welcome drink, daily newspaper, and Bulgari toiletries—not to mention the stunning 360-degree view from the rooftop restaurant. Doubles start at €250 a night. Largo Febo, 2. +39 06682831.

The effortlessness—and privacy—of home:

Then stay at: Crossing Condotti (above). If you find the idea of having lots of stuff around you stressful, then book one of the five rooms at this enchanting little residence, located a stone's throw from the Spanish Steps. With soft palettes and clean lines, all given some personality by touches like wood-beamed ceilings and antique furniture (it actually comes from the family of the Sicilian prince that runs the place), the rooms exude a charm that's elegant, not over the top. The place runs more like private apartments than a hotel, meaning there's no 24/7 reception: You have your own keys and let yourself in and out when you want. Doubles start at €180 a night. Via Mario de' Fiori, 28. +39 06 69920633.

Or: Mario de Fiori 37. This little residence, tucked (as you might expect) into the same lovely street as Crossing Condotti, features four homey rooms that hit the right luxe notes, like Frette sheets, free Wi-Fi, Nespresso machines, and king-sized beds. The smallest room is a spacious 215 square feet, but for the ultimate in coziness and privacy, spring for the 377-square-foot attic apartment (shown below). This is another spot that isn't a "hotel," but a residence—meaning, again, your own keys, privacy and independence in lieu of a 24-hour reception. Doubles start at €220 a night. Via Mario de' Fiori, 37. +39 0669921907

Please note: Although I visited each of these hotels and B&Bs myself, all of the photos are courtesy of the hotels.

Accommodation, Rome

Want to Know Where to Stay in Rome? Check Out National Geographic Traveller

February 10, 2012 No Comments

Want to know where to find the best accommodation in Rome? You could check out my articles on the best B&Bs and boutique hotels in Rome for the Guardian.

Or you could pick up the National Geographic Traveller (that’s the UK version of the magazine) March/April 2012 issue to find my favorite hotels in Rome—this time, organized by neighborhood. (Hello, Prati/Monti/Trastevere/”heart of the centro storico.” Love you all.) On newsstands now. (You can also find it online here).

(A third option is in the works: I’m working on beefing up my “accommodation” section on this blog. The first attempt is this post on the most romantic hotels in Rome).

Beyond Rome, Food & drink, Rome, Shopping

No (Fiscal) Receipt? No Party: How Tourists Can Help the Campaign Against Tax Evasion in Italy

February 2, 2012 10 Comments

Tax evasion is a huge problem in Italy. By knowing how important a fiscal receipt is, and what it looks like, here’s how tourists can help.

Everyone knows that tax evasion is one of the biggest issues facing Italy's economy. But very few tourists to Italy know that they have the power to do something about it.

And should.

That's because tax evasion in Italy doesn't just happen in accountants' offices behind closed doors. It happens every time a product, meal, or coffee is sold. Why? Because Italian stores and restaurants have a book of "fiscal receipts" issued by the government—and legally, they need to give the customer a fiscal receipt (ricevuta fiscale) for each interaction. Each time they use a ricevuta fiscale, the government knows about the purchase… and the interaction is taxed.

Without issuing that ricevuta fiscale, it's like the interaction never happened. And, therefore, it's untaxed.

And so, guess what: You hardly ever see fiscal receipts in Italy. Especially if you're a tourist.

Restaurants and stores know that tourists have no idea what a fiscal receipt looks like versus a non-fiscal receipt. They also know that tourists have a tendency to think it's "cute" when their waiter does something like, say, scribble the total on the tablecloth or a napkin. Guess what? That's not a fiscal receipt. And that's not cute. It means that your meal isn't being taxed. It's going right into the owner's pockets, tax-free.

This has been a huge issue for, well, ages. It's something everyone knows, but—until recently—that nobody publicizes. It's part of a system that many Italians mistakenly believe benefits everyone: After all, it obviously helps owners, in the short term, especially since taxes are so high in Italy. And as a customer? If you're a regular, you know that, if you don't ask for a fiscal receipt, your local restaurant or drycleaner or whatever will give you a discount. Everybody wins.

Except, of course, that they don't.

In 2009 alone, Italians evaded about 120 billion euros in taxes—that's almost four times the value of Monti's new austerity budget. If Italy were as strict in collecting taxes as the U.K. and the U.S. over the last 40 years, economists have calculated, then the country's national debt would be 80 percent of GDP, not 120 percent.

Doesn't the government know about this, you ask? Aren't they doing anything? Well, sure. There's something called the Guardia di Finanza in Italy—think the IRS with guns—whose sole job is to make sure that fiscal interactions are done legally. Occasionally, they'll get a tip on a restaurant or shop. The problem? Because Italy is what it is, the establishment usually gets a tip-off that they're coming. And so, surprise! When the Guardia check the receipts they're issuing, they're suddenly fiscal.

With Monti's new government, though, things seem to be improving. There have just been several big stings that have shown just how bad tax evasion was—and not just in the much-maligned south, but in the supposedly-so-civilized north, too. In December, 80 tax inspectors swooped in on the tony ski town of Cortina d'Ampezzo in Italy's Dolomites. In the wake of the inspection, declared profits were suddenly up 400 percent from the previous season (gee whiz, how'd that happen?). In mid-January in Rome, an inspection of 292 businesses in one day found that 52% were in violation. And last weekend, the Guardia di Finanza targeted Milan. In the days after their blitz, reported income went up by 44 percent.

So. Well and good. But government can only do so much.

Consumers have to help, too.

Italians have started calling for boycotts among establishments that aren't issuing fiscal receipts. One of the leaders of the pack is Rome's own Puntarella Rossa, who has launched the campaign "No scontrino, no party" (no receipt, no party), encouraging diners to ask for fiscal receipts every time they eat—or to boycott the restaurant. Even more effectively, the restaurants in violation are being named and shamed. Citizens took the campaign seriously this week in Bari, for example, sending photos of the receipts they received, with the restaurants' names, to both the Guardia and to La Repubblica's blog on Bari.

It's a fantastic idea, and one that needs to spread. But it can be expanded to tourists, too. Because, with as many non-Italian diners and customers as there are in Rome and the rest of Italy, everyone needs to be a part of this for it to succeed.

So, folks: When you're dining in Italy, always ask for a "ricevuta fiscale." Don't accept hand-scribbled scraps of paper as receipts, and don't accept a receipt that says, at the top, "NON FISCALE" (not fiscal). Unless, that is, you don't mind supporting Italy's tax evasion—and the huge issues it's causing for not only Italy's economy, but the worldwide economy, too.

You could even take it a step further: Snap a photo of the illegal receipt and email it, with the restaurant's name, to puntarellarossa@hotmail.it.

Need help figuring out what is and what isn't a fiscal receipt? Check out Walks of Italy's blog post on how not to get ripped off at Italian restaurants, which includes a helpful section, with photos, on what fiscal and non-fiscal receipts look like.

Archaeological sites, Rome

Can You Guess Where, and What, These Little Bits of Roman Antiquity Are?

January 24, 2012 8 Comments

It's no secret that Rome is a city chock-full of the ancient past. Reminders of a city, and empire, of 2,000 years ago aren't just rife in the Forum, Palatine and Colosseum, but beneath churches like the Basilica of San Clemente and San Nicola in Carcere, acting as the main event in open spaces like the Park of the Aqueducts, and even serving as forums for everything from ballet and opera to light shows and displays. In short, ruins are everywhere.

Maybe that's why some of my favorite ancient ruins in Rome aren't the big, famous monuments. They're the little bits of antiquity that you simply stumble across: an ancient column sunk into the wall of an otherwise-unassuming apartment building, a still-running fountain with a wornaway face that you just know must be 2,000 years old. These can be tough to find. That's part of the fun.

Here, I'll share with you my favorite "secret" bits of antiquity, tucked into street corners and buildings all across the city.

Can you guess where—and what—they are?

I've now published all of the guesses in the "Comments." To see how close you were, scroll to the bottom of this page for the answers!

Ready? Set? …Go!

1)

2)

3)

4)

5)

6)

7)

8)

Answers:

1) I started off with a stumper: This elaborate ancient column is at the Via della Maschera d'Oro and Vicolo di San Simeone, located in ancient Rome's Campus Martius. No one quite knew what this one was!

2) A couple of you got this. This is a detail of the lovely Arco degli Argentari, or "Arch of the Money-changers," commissioned by the local money-changers and merchants who were active in the area's Forum Boarium. The arch, which was finished in 204 A.D., was built in honor of Emperor Septimius Severus, as the inscription—just to the right of the bas-relief of Hercules holding a lion skin—says. In the 7th century, the arch was incorporated into the Church of San Giorgio in Velabro.

3) This one was tricky, but it's one of the coolest ruins around. This is—wait for it—one of ancient Rome's fire stations. Truly. In particular, it's the barracks for Brigade VII, and dates back to the 2nd century A.D. The brigade was in charge of not only preventing and extinguishing fires, but public safety, too, particularly at night. It's located at Via della Settima Coorte, 9, in the heart of Trastevere. (When you go, bring a flashlight to look through the grille underneath: You can still see one of the big rooms of the barracks).

4) This is a piece of the Virgin Aqueduct, the famous aqueduct built by Agrippa in the 1st century B.C. and that supplies water to the Trevi Fountain. Believe it or not, this original piece is just off Via del Tritone; turn on Via del Nazareno, at the Burger King, and look down and to the left.

5) Yep, this was a "duh"… but it was so pretty I had to put it in. This lovely ancient column is located on Via Margana, just a few steps from Piazza Venezia.

6) Lots of you got this. This is a big chunk of the 4th century B.C. Servian Wall, located at the Termini train station (if you go inside Termini, you'll see more of it in on the lower level, including a big piece by the McDonald's).

7) These ancient columns and frieze are sunk into the building at Via di Capo di Ferro, 31, just off the Piazza della Trinità dei Pellegrini.

8) An ancient portal on Via Margana, in Rome's Rione XI of Sant'Angelo, just a few steps from Piazza Venezia.

« Previous 1 … 13 14 15 16 17 … 31 Next »